Mullae, Seoul
Mullae is an up-and-coming area that meshes old and new
It’s traditionally an area for factories and metalwork
Artists have moved in and eateries have opened up, attracting many
Being the huge city that it is, Seoul is home to a range of different kinds of neighborhoods. After having visited the city a couple of times, my Korea travels began to take me to areas beyond the typical tourist spots.
Mullae is one of them, and it’s an area that is very fascinating as its blends the industrial, blue collar, craft world with the artistic, cafe and bar one.
How to get there
The main station is Mullae Station, and it’s accessible on Seoul Subway Line 2. The line also hits other popular stations such as Seongsu, Konkuk University, Euljiro 3(sam)-ga, Dongdaemun History & Culture Park and others.
About Mullae
Step out of Mullae Station and you may wonder if you’ve come to the right place. There is no hint that it’s an area for people to come to check out boutiques, grab some coffee, a drink or a bite to eat.
There aren’t many tall buildings and you immediately sense that you’re in a more industrial area. If you’re like me, you may find yourself a bit confused, but I’ve learned that you just have to walk and explore.
In between the spaces where workers are yelling and pieces of metal are clanking are intriguing coffee shops and cafes that seem out of place. They’re not cheap, run-of-the-mill chains, they’re legit spots that aim to blend cultures together.
Walk down the small streets and alleys in Old Mullae and Mullae Art Village, and you’ll find ateliers, boutiques and even more cafes, separated by old walls that have become artists’ murals.
Put on your walking shoes, bring your camera if you have one, and take a walk around this local gem.
If you’d like to see more of the area, here’s a video of the first time I visited (start at 3:52):
Where to eat
Wolhwa Meat
Amazing samgyeopsal, or grilled pork belly. Wolhwa Meat specializes in award-winning pork that’s been aged for 10-15 days. They also use sesame oil from the Wolhwa Village, and serve seasonal ingredients and vegetables from a farm called Muju Farm.
The pork seemed to be really high quality, with quite an exceptional flavor just on its own. There’s a small self-serve bar where you can serve your vegetables, which is all-you-can-eat.
The restaurant has a local feel to it. In fact, our server seemed really intrigued that we were there because he said foreigners don’t really go there, but he was really nice. Such a good dinner - I highly recommend this place and would love to go again.
http://www.wolhwa.co.kr [K]
Dyer Maker Mullae
Drinks and good music. Sitting down a small industrial ally in the Mullae Art Village, Dyer Maker Mullae is an unexpected, classy space.
On one side is the bar with bottles and records along the wall, and on the other side is wavy acoustic padding that, along with the high-end audio equipment in this vintage space, helps the music sound its best. You can even request songs for them to play.
The menu consists of typical bar food, and they serve a variety of drinks from beer to cocktails and whisky. It’s a chill spot to kick back for late evening.
https://faview.ai/view/Dyermaker_ml [K]
Youngil Bunsik
On an industrial street with the sounds of metal clanking and tools banging is this highly rated hold-in-the-wall noodle shop, Youngil Bunsik.
This is a spot that you probably won’t find listed in English-language guides and one that few would seek out, but its local media features are apparent as they decorate the walls.
The shop has a really homey feel to it, almost like a local Korean aunty is the one preparing your meal. Enter the front through the kitchen, take off your shoes and find a table on the floor to sit at.
Their kalguksu (cold noodles, like udon) was fresh and was mildly spicy. One bowl was enough for the two of us, and was a nice local spot for us to stop at for lunch.
Keep in touch:
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