New Year’s Differences: Japanese vs Japanese-American

I’ve spent many Holiday seasons in Japan while living there for 13 years. There are a lot of differences during that time compared to the US. For one, Christmas is more family focused in the US while it’s more like a Valentine’s Day in Japan. There’s also way more gift giving in the US than there is in Japan. 

New Year’s is quiet and family focused in Japan and more of a party and celebration in the US. New Year’s is also more of the focus in Japan as there’s a long holiday during this time.

I’m Japanese-American and grew up celebrating New Year’s with some Japanese traditions which is common amongst Japanese-Americans in Hawaii. There are probably some differences between Japanese-Americans in Hawaii vs the U.S. Mainland and even between families, just as there are differences between regions in Japan, but I’ll share some observations I’ve had from my personal experiences.

1. There’s not much mochi pounding in Japan

One of the big things that I’ve noticed is that there’s more focus on making mochi in Hawaii than in Japan.

Mochi is a food made of rice that’s been pounded and made into a sticky texture. For New Year’s, it’s used in a traditional Japanese soup called ozoni, and when I was growing up, we pounded the rice with a machine and relatives would come over and shape the mochi with our hands.

My uncle and his family host an annual mochitsuki, or mochi pounding, event to bring people together and teach kids Japanese traditions. I’ve also noticed that many other Japanese-American families and groups in Hawaii doing the same.

In my 13 years in Japan, I only saw mochi pounding twice.

Once was part of a City Hall activity and once was for a school activity for students. I’ve lived both in Tokyo and in a smaller locale, and I’ve seen a family do it.

The principal at the school that held the activity said it’s a dying culture which is why he decided to have it for the students. While many in the neighborhood use to gather to take part in the tradition when he was younger, nowadays, most Japanese just buy mochi at the store.

2. There’s no kadomatsu in homes

Kadomatsu is a Japanese New Year decoration mainly made with bamboo, leaves, and rope.

In Hawaii, they’re sold even at places like Costco and Whole Foods. Family friends also made them and gifted them to us during the season. It might be that we were doing it wrong as a family, but we put them on display in our house.

It’s not as common for people in Japan to decorate with kadomatsu, it’s more common for businesses and shrines.

What I learned however, is that it’s supposed to be displayed outside because it’s meant to guide Gods and spirits. I’ve also never seen a kadomatsu at my wife’s home or any other Japanese friend’s home around this time of year.

3. Hawaii Japanese New Year’s food is different from Japanese New Year’s food

In Japan, New Year’s has a lot of cultural traditions and that includes food. There’s traditional dishes like osechi ryori where basically each item has a meaning.

In Hawaii, food is more representative of the mixed backgrounds of families, so you can have Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Filipino - basically all sorts of foods mixed together.

It may be that some dishes are localized from a part of Japan I’m not familiar with, but even New Year’s dishes labeled as “Japanese” in Hawaii are different.

“Namasu” in Hawaii is more commonly called “sunomono” in Japan

In Hawaii, namasu is mainly vinegered cucumber slices and wakame seaweed. In Japan, it’s mostly thinly sliced and vinegered carrots and daikon.

Seeing how culture changes as time passes or situations change due to immigration or relocation is interesting. I’m glad I could experience both Japanese New Year’s culture and Hawaii Japanese-American New Year’s cultures.

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Unexpected Struggles Moving From Japan to the US

My wife and I recently moved out of Japan to Hawaii, USA, with the expectation that we’d be back in Japan from time to time.

She’s Japanese, and even though we did a lot to prepare for the move so we could maintain an international life, there are things that we forgot, didn’t know or just made mistakes with.

If you plan to do the same, I recommend you to make sure you avoid these issues better than we did so you can avoid future hassles.

1. Double check your bank status

Banking has been the biggest issue since leaving Japan because we can’t access our money. Here’s what happened.

Opting to not pay monthly international usage fees was a mistake

My wife’s main bank account is with Mitsubishi UFJ, one of the major banks. With most banks in Japan, if you’re going to be overseas, you’re supposed to opt-in to be charged a monthly fee, which we thought to was mainly so we could use functions such as international bank transfers. 

The plan was to use Wise for these transfers since it’s a service that helps you transfer money overseas between accounts for a lot cheaper. Using it doesn’t require international bank transfers since you transfer money to their Japan account and they deposit that amount into the overseas one, meaning we wouldn’t be doing anything “international” with UFJ.

Unfortunately, you’re not allowed to even be overseas really and use your bank account normally unless you pay that monthly fee.

When my wife tried to make a domestic transfer while in the US, she was immediately locked out of her account. 

Don’t forget going through the extra security checks

After doing away with my UFJ account (it was my main account, but long story), I decided to have my secondary account at Yucho Bank (Japan Post) be my main one.

I overlooked the fact that I hadn’t applied to use all of the features of my bank account. 

Like at many banks, just because you’ve gone through the process of opening a bank account and are able to use online banking, it doesn’t mean you can use other functions such as sending and receiving money.

One part of the common security checks in Japan

In order to be able to do this, you need to go through additional security checks, and I overlooked the fact that I hadn’t done it. Because of this, my bank didn’t allow me to connect with Wise for domestic transfers.

2. Prepare for Apple ID Issues

As you may know if you’re an iPhone user, your Apple ID is not universal - it’s tied to a country.

Because I had an iPhone before moving to Japan in the US, that was my main account. I ended up getting a Japan Apple ID as well because there are certain apps that are useful in Japan and not available in the US App Store.

After moving back to the US, I needed to update my Japan apps and when I tried to login, Apple sent a confirmation code to my Japan phone number, the number I had cancelled when I left the country

Go through an account recovery with Apple

I had to make an account recovery request and go through a series of steps.

Once the request is successfully submitted, you’re told that you’ll be contacted exactly 2 weeks from the time of submission to finish up the process.

I went in and changed my Japanese Apple ID to my US phone number so that I could log in again. Thankfully all that worked out and I can access the Japan App Store.

The inability to switch county settings for accounts is not only an Apple problem

This is an issue with other apps as well. For example, for LINE, you have to go through a somewhat tedious process to change your linked phone number if you move countries.

3. Know that you can’t switch countries for Google AdSense

A lot of people will start a blog or YouTube channel when living abroad, and some will monetize it with Google AdSense.

This may lead to Google AdSense depositing payouts in your Japanese bank account. This was the case for me.

Despite registering my US tax info as required for US citizens, Google does not allow you to switch the country it’s tied to once it’s set.

How to switch countries for Google AdSense

1. Cancel your Google AdSense account

2. Open a new account in your new country

3. Submit a request to have your new account connected to your YouTube channel

It can take a little while and during this time, you don’t get paid. This is the only way I know of.

I hope this helps. Feel free to share or ask any questions you might have.

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Initial Reverse Culture Shocks Moving From Tokyo, Japan to Hawaii, USA

I lived in Japan for a total of 13 years, experiencing life both in the countryside and in the big city of Tokyo.

I would occasionally visit the US, most often my hometown of Honolulu, and there were always things that would stand out and require me to readjust to. Due to the pandemic, this is the longest period of not being in the US I’ve ever had.

A couple months ago, I returned to Honolulu to live. These are 11 things that are catching my attention in this early phase of reverse culture shock.

1. Service is way more casual

This was apparent right from my flight from Japan on Hawaiian Airlines. Staff were friendly and treated passengers like friends.

“Here’s your dinner, snack or whatever you want to call it.” said the flight attendant giving me my meal. Whatever I want to call it?

To her credit, the Hawaiian Airlines meal is more than a snack but definitely lacking as a meal compared to other airlines, so it is a bit hard to label.

Hawaiian Airlines’ meal from Tokyo to Honolulu has more unused tray space vs. other airlines on the same route

“You don’t want your cookie? It’s the best part!” another flight attendant said while picking up the meal trays.

Casual and friendly? Yes. Fitting with the local culture in Hawaii? Yes. As someone who grew up in Hawaii, it’s fine with me, but this type of service may be seen as too casual for someone expecting to be treated like a customer.

This is a huge contrast to how it typically is in Japan, as everything is formal, by the book, and overall really good but often lacking in human connection and empathy.

2. Smartphone apps are a lot better

Many in Japan are mobile-only, yet the smartphone app ecosystem is not as robust as it is in the US.

For example, the main app for my bank account at JP Post only allows me to see my balance and transactions. If I want to send money, I need to apply, go through a tedious security check, and use a second app. If I want to access my account on a PC, I need to apply for yet another login, and then use that separate login.

A separate app for Japan Post Bank used to authenticate customers again so they can use their account features in yet another app

Hakuyosha, a dry cleaning chain, has an app where you can register as a customer and earn points. It doesn’t keep transactions and you can’t use it to drop off or pick up your dry cleaning.

Systems aren’t connected which makes many apps in Japan less useful and feel like they’re several years behind the US in terms of functionality.

3. Mask usage varies

At the time I left Japan in last August 2022, nearly everyone still wore masks indoors and outdoors, although it began to decrease.

I’m not sure how many wore it because they wanted to, felt they had to, or did it because it was what everyone else was doing and didn’t want to cause problems by not doing so.

Coming back to the US, it seems to vary by location and time of day, at least in Honolulu. Overall, I’d say around 20-30% wear masks indoors.

4. Prices are high

The higher prices on everything, especially now with inflation issues, are a hard pill to swallow.

JPY value versus USD over the past year until mid-Oct 2022

Add into the equation the fact that I’ve been earning Japanese yen, a currency that has lost more than -26% in value against USD so far in 2022 (as of Oct), prices and my severely weakened buying power are catching my attention.

Tipping at restaurants, something not done in Japan, add to things, of course.

5. No updated price tags sometimes

While I’ve only seen this at Macy’s so far, I found it too odd to ignore. With no price tag on some items, there were signs saying to download their app and scan the item with it in order to “get prices in a snap”.

Macy’s asking people to download their app and scan items in their store in order to know their prices

Why would a store make you go through an extra step to see the price? Being physically so close to the point of purchase, store should make buying easy to do.

The overall feel of the store at the location I went to was also a bit dingy and disheveled, especially compared with department stores in Japan.

6. Way more dog-friendly

A dog walks out of a clothing store in a mall with its owner

Dogs in banks, cafes, clothing stores, etc. This is something I’m not use to seeing in Japan as dogs basically need to be tied up outside.

The dogs I’ve seen have been bigger than most in Japan, well-trained, well-behaved, and the overall pet dog environment seems to be a lot better.

7. Linear TV is dead

Streaming streaming streaming. Japan is full of streaming services as well, but not to the level that it is in the US.

Japan also doesn’t have YouTube TV, the service that basically gives you everything cable would. They also don’t have services like HBO Max, Peacock, etc. and they have limited cable TV that’s free (unless you pay the NHK bill or let their salesperson in, which most don’t).

8. Fruits aren’t as good on average

Japanese tourists like to take photos. of the fruit section in American supermarkets because of how they’re piled up in volumes. Unfortunately, the typical fruit doesn’t taste as good as their Japanese counterpart.

A juicy melon from Hokkaido, Japan. The juice in the cup on the right is just from cutting these slices

I’ve had good mangoes so far (I’m in Hawaii so go figure), but strawberries, melons, grapes… just not as good as Japan’s.

Bruised strawberries being sold at a supermarket in Honolulu

9. Trash is easier but probably not as good

In Honolulu, there are 3 trash bins: A grey one for regular trash, a blue one for recyclables, and a green one for yard waste.

In Japan, it varies by city, but in central Tokyo, most trash needs to be separated a lot more, despite being one of the relaxed cities when it comes to trash disposal.

This includes taking off labels from plastic bottles when disposing them, glass bottles, cans, burnable trash, etc. Milk cartons need to be separated. The disposal of slightly bigger objects need to be paid for and a pick-up needs to be scheduled. There are more rules and even in restaurants, paper and plastic are separated and there is another receptacle to get rid of any liquid before throwing cups away.

Trash in Japan has to be thoroughly separated, for example these plastic bottles with labels and caps removed

It feels odd to throw so many types of trash in a single waste basket or bin. It’s easier and more convenient, but is probably not as good and takes more work at recycling facilities.

10. Modern Japanese toilets are more common

The bathroom in general is one area that the US lags behind. Toilets and showers were so basic for the longest time.

While I’ve been aware of the increase in focus on modern Japanese toilets, as well as brands coming up selling attachable bidets, it’s interesting to see it first hand. From seeing them mentioned in hit drama series This Is Us to seeing TOTO washlet attachments being sold at Costco, it’s a welcomed change in American hygiene.

TOTO washlets being sold at Costco

11. Social Security Numbers are useful

This is overlooked as Americans, but my Japanese wife noticed how important social security numbers are.

Japan introduced their own version of an SSN a few years ago called “My Number”, and it still has very little usage due to systems not being connected with each other.

Many places don’t take My Number and choose to verify or check people’s status through traditional, analog methods such as official residence forms.

If you’d like to watch me cover this topic, check out the video here.

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What I Learned When Moving Out of Japan

I recently moved out of my 1-bedroom Tokyo apartment (1LDK) and out of Japan, and moved back to the US.

It's a lot of work, even more than when moving in the US, and it can be pretty expensive.

Here are a few realizations and lessons I learned while going through the process.

The cost to throw away small items adds up

We may think about how much an item costs and whether or not there are expenses for it down the road, but we usually don’t think about how much it’ll cost to throw then away later.

In Japan, there's even a charge for throwing away something like a small container. You’ll have to buy special stickers to be able to throw them away as well as schedule an appointment for someone to come and pick up your specific item.

¥400 fee + need to call for collection for this container

¥400 fee + need to call for collection for this furo bath cover

Even if you live in an apartment complex where multiple items have been paid for and are awaiting pick-up, they won’t come and collect everyone’s items.

A ¥300 steal at Daiso may cost you ¥400 and time to get the trash stickers and schedule that pickup.

Breaking down trash is time-consuming

The process of throwing away things takes longer than if you’re moving in the US because there's more work involved.

Each item needs to be broken down and separated by individual parts - burnable, metal, etc., then thrown away appropriately in separate bags or bins.

If you have a lot of foreign products, it's worse.

Packaging from many non-Japanese companies often are "nice" these days because it’s seen as a value-add and a differentiator in an era where it’s typical for people to show the "unboxing" of them.

However, the truth is that most of their packaging are not made to be easily broken down or folded flat for easy recycling, which is required in Japan.

Using Mercari is helpful

Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist works minimally at best, although I have used the latter in Japan.

I've sold several things on Mercari (make sure you’re using the Japan app, which is different from the US one).

Note: Like with any customer service in Japan, the amount of etiquette you have to have to have in order to successfully interact with Japanese buyers on the app is crazy, it’s not like how it is in the US whatsoever.

Once you get the hang of it though, it begins to get smoother and you can get rid of a lot of unneeded items around your house.

You can ship items easily at a combini.

I used 2 combinis to ship Mercari items and I recommend 7-11.

At 7-11, you just bring the packaged item to the checkout counter and the staff will scan your QR shipping code that comes up in the app, give you a postal sticker that you stick on the package, and done. They take your item and ship it, there is no money exchange or writing of addresses, nothing.

My experience at FamilyMart wasn’t as good. They require using a kiosk in order to create a ticket to ship your item. Then, you need to take them to the cashier before doing the same as 7-11.

Sell clothes at a second-hand shop

While selling items on Mercari was helpful, selling clothing was quite hard.

This is why we ended up taking a lot of our clothes to a second-hand clothing shop in Shimokitazawa, the Tokyo neighborhood known for things like thrifting.

We used TreFacStyle. If you download their app and create an account, they’ll give you an added percentage for the items that they buy.

Clothes have little value.

It was a slap in the face to know how little value our clothes actually had.

Here are some of the things I sold that they paid the most for:

• Burberry Black suit: ¥4240

• Haglöfs rain jacket: ¥2000

• Burberry Black sport coat: ¥1500

• Sisley trench coat: ¥1000

• Porter messenger bag: ¥1000

• Nike tech jacket: ¥600

And here are some of the items I sold that they paid the least for or refused to take:

• J.Crew button down shirt: ¥20 each

• Banana Republic knit: ¥20

• J.Crew knit: ¥20

• Hugo Boss tie: Didn’t take

• Futura shirt: Didn’t take

• Y-3 sneakers (kind of worn condition): Didn’t take

I know thrifters like to buy clothing for reasons like it’s trendy or more eco-friendly, but these stores don’t pay much for them meaning thrifters are paying prices that are insanely bloated.

Use AirTags to track your boxes and luggage

Apple’s AirTags are great for tracking your boxes or luggage when you ship them or check them in on your flight.

I put a few of them inside pockets or items inside the boxes. Updates on their whereabouts weren’t realtime, but they were frequently updated and I could see where they were in the truck, at the holding center, port, etc.

Just a note, because AirTags link to your Apple account, it might be a good idea to link some of them to your partner or someone else’s account if you plan to use the AirTags for daily use after and don’t need all of them. I’ve learned that once their paired with your account, it’s hard to unpair them and I didn’t need so many AirTags after my items arrived.

I hope this helps. Feel free to share or ask any questions you might have.

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Do Foreign English Teachers Actually Impact Japanese Students?

The Japan government spends a lot of tax payer money for English education through initiatives such as their JET Program. Many private companies also hire native English speakers to teach the language to children and adults alike.

Despite this, Japan ranked 78th in the EF English Proficiency Index in 2021, placing them in the category of “Low proficiency”.

We can debate the reasons as to why this is. Entrance exam centric education that focuses mainly on reading and writing. Completely different grammatical structure and pronunciation. Japanese English teachers who can’t speak themselves. Unqualified native English teachers. Not enough class time with native English speakers. Lack of practical need.

The list goes on, and the purpose isn’t to figure out why English proficiency in Japan is so low.

You see, I began my life in Japan as one of those native assistant English language teachers (ALTs) on the JET Program in a very rural area of Fukuoka.

While I have no hard data, I would bet that the vast majority of my students I taught in junior high school - around 1,000 each year at 2-3 schools - are unable to have a simple conversation in English.

But I can understand that. After all, I still struggle with Japanese myself despite being fully immersed, living in Japan for years.

And I’d also add that despite what it’s described as, ALTs on the JET Program aren’t merely language instructors. They are cultural representatives, are meant to be accessible international touch points for Japanese students, and they often become positive ambassadors of Japan when they return to their home countries.

I wanted to know, however, was there any meaning for me to be in Japan at these schools at all? Being paid with tax payers’ money, did my presence impact the next generation of Japan at all?

Former student interviews

This was no scientific research method, but I asked a few students directly what they thought about having myself and other foreign English teachers in their schools.

Thanks to social media, some students and I have kept in touch of the years, so I interviewed 4 of them about this.

Here’s some background, just for context about who they are.

• I taught each student for all 3 years of their junior high school years

• They all went to the same junior high school in the same city

• 3 are the same age (24), 1 was in the class below (22)

• They either live in or frequent Tokyo, meaning they’re experiences and motivations are likely wider than typical

• The interview was a surprise, so they had no time to prep for it

• I gave them the option of speaking in English or Japanese

How did my students view ALTs?

Here are the takeaways that I got.

Nako: “It’s so fun, and interesting.” She uses English in her professional life as a graphic designer and would like to continue doing so.

Santa: “Because there are a lot of Japanese who can’t speak English, to have that closeness… and from a student’s point of view, I think they’re happy. So I’d like to see it increase even more.” Though he doesn’t use it much while working as a fashion stylist, he’s positive about it.

Mayu: “I think it’s good because I could meet Barrett.” At the moment, she’s finishing up college, but feels positive about communicating.

Nanase: “Being in Japan, there are few chances to be exposed to English, especially for elementary and middle school students. When you’re an adult, opportunities increase a little bit, but that’s not the case when you’re a kid, so in that regard, having an ALT in the school to create opportunities to be exposed to English is a very positive thing.” She’s done a stay abroad and looks to do more.

I also received messages from other former students.

Conclusion

As with most ALTs on the JET Program, I had a lot of students. I’d visit each class in each grade at each school.

I actually felt fortunate, though, that I was only rotating between 2 or 3 schools year year because it allowed me to have more time to get to know my students and form relationships with them. Another ALT that was teaching in Fukuoka at the same time as me had 21 schools, meaning he’d see each class maybe once a year.

It’s impossible as an ALT on the JET Program to effectively teach everyone English, get them interested in foreign cultures, or even form any kind of relationship with them.

I consider myself lucky. As much as I taught my students, they taught me a lot as well about Japanese and local culture, school and personal life, how they viewed things. Interacting with them even helped me find my next job in Japan, a non-teaching one at that. Being placed in this small city in Fukuoka, meeting them was based off nothing but serendipity, and I think there’s meaning in that.

So was there any meaning in me being there and did I, as an ALT on the JET Program, make an impact on my students?

I’d say the fact that I’m still in touch with many and them being willing to do the interview points to yes. And I’m sure this is the case for many other English ALTs in Japan as well.

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What You Get in Tokyo for $1,800/Month

Tokyo is one of the world’s major cities and one of its biggest.

There are more than 37 million people in the greater metropolitan area, almost 14 million in the city proper, and Tokyo has the biggest economy of any city in the world. It’s safe to say that space comes at a premium.

Just like my previous $950/month Tokyo studio apartment, you will either find this $1,800/month 1-bedroom apartment expensive or a good deal, depending on where you’re from.

The location

As with anywhere, the location has a lot to do with the price. The metropolitan area of Tokyo is made up of 23 wards, and each operates with some autonomy. Because of this, each has slightly different residential taxes and average rent prices.

In fact, when comparing average rent prices between the cheapest and most expensive wards, the most expensive (Shibuya ward) is more than double the cheapest (Katsushika ward).

The average rent for a 1LDK (1-bedroom apartment) in central Tokyo (within the 23 wards) is said to be about ﾥ145,782 or $1,458 per month in 2022 [J].

Ward: Setagaya

My apartment was in the Setagaya ward which is west-southwest from the center of Tokyo. It has just under 1 million residents and is the second largest ward in Tokyo in terms of area. Its residential taxes and rent prices, while generally cheaper than others wards like Minato or Shibuya, is slightly above average.

The most well known area in Setagaya is probably Shimokitazawa, an area known for its subculture, thrift stores, small bars and live houses, and a spot where many performing artists get their starts.

This apartment is about 3 minutes from there by train.

Station: Kyodo

A Kyodo street in the snow

My wife and I chose an apartment in Kyodo [MAP] - a residential area about 15 minutes from Shinjuku and Shibuya.

There is one train line that goes to Kyodo - the Odakyu line. The Odakyu line goes from Shinjuku all the way out west to the Hachiōji area and down to Kanagawa prefecture.

The station and train lines that go through it are important factors when deciding where to live in Tokyo, and it also affects the price.

An Odakyu line train leaving Kyodo Station

At Kyodo Station, the regular and express trains stop, which makes it more desirable. The rapid express train doesn’t stop, however.

There are also some trains that become Chiyoda line trains. Personally, I think that the Chiyoda line is one of the best lines in Tokyo because it goes to popular areas such as Harajuku, Omotesando/Aoyama, Nogizaka (right next to Roppongi), Hibiya (next to Yurakucho and Ginza), Nijūbashimae (Marunouchi and Tokyo Station area).

It was also easy for me to get to work, taking around 40 minutes door-to-door with 1 easy transfer on the same platform or none at all.

Corty shopping complex

Our apartment was only a 5 minute walk from Kyodo station. Around the station area, there are about 3 supermarkets, dry cleaning, convenience stores, a gym, and other food places and coffee shops.

It’s also worth noting that Gotokuji and Yamashita station are only about 10 minutes away, making the Setagaya line also accessible.

The apartment building

Our apartment building in Kyodo

The apartment building is an 11-story concrete building built in 2010. In Japan, they refer to this type of apartment as a “mansion”, which tends to be more expensive to rent when compared to “apāto” types.

It’s a corner unit which is nice, but there wasn’t anything special about the view. It faces west and looked down at a main street below, and if you look around the corner, you can see the Shinjuku skyline in the distance.

Key features

• “Auto-lock” - A secure entry system into the building (there’s actually 2 to get in)

• Security camera system in the lobby and elevator

• Video intercom to allow people into the building

• Front desk/concierge service

• Delivery boxes - A self-serve, secure locker system for box deliveries in case you’re not home

• Courtyard area outside of the lobby

• Car parking garage (extra fee) - A covered parking lot meet to the apartment building

Mail and delivery box area

The building is located next to the train tracks, so it can be a little on the noisy side when you’re outside. The apartments are equipped with double-paned glass so almost all of that noise is filtered out.

To the front of the west side of apartment is a gym, and the other side faces a street.

The apartment complex is owned by Odakyu, the same company that runs the train lines, has department stores and a lot more. They also run the promenade that leads up to the building from Kyodo station.

Lobby

The building has staff and a concierge that helps out with tasks such as mailing boxes, getting dry cleaning done, etc., however they come at an extra fee. The staff are really nice though.

Courtyard

The entire area, including the apartment building, are very well maintained by the Odakyu staff. They’re always cleaning, doing landscaping, and even worked through the night on a snowy night to clear the ice.

The apartment

Living room

This apartment is classified in Japan as a 1LDK, which means 1 bedroom, a living room, dining area, and a kitchen.

Apartment layout

Key features

• 47.15 sq. m (506 sq. ft.)

• Stove with 3 gas burners, grill

• TOTO toilet with remote bidet, heated seats, etc.

• Bathroom with anti-fog heated mirror cabinet

• Flat-floor shower and a tub that automatically fills, reheats and circulates water while maintaining temperature

• Dryer function that allows clothes drying in the shower

• Washing machine hookup with hot and cold water

• 2 AC/heater units (1 in living room, 1 in bedroom)

• Large balcony with open-air view

• 2 sliding doors with double-paned glass

• Higher than typical ceiling

Bedroom. For reference, the bed is a full-sized bed.

TOTO toilet, separate from the bathroom.

Bathroom with washing machine hook-up

Flat-floor shower and tub unit. Tub has functions like auto-fill, reheat, circulate. The shower also can dry clothes.

Balcony

Fees and costs

The monthly rent totaled to ¥180,000 or about $1,800 USD, depending on the exchange rate. This included the management and service fee of ¥7,000 ($70). When looking at the monthly costs, it’s pretty reasonable considering the size and density of the city, and quality of the apartment itself.

The initial costs, however, were a bit high as often is the case.

Initial costs

While exact costs may vary depending on the rental agency, it is typical that there will be a deposit and “key money” amongst a few other smaller fees. The key money is what was a bit different from any rental experience that I had.

There’s also the typical and non-refundable “thank you” fee to the property owner for letting us rent, it’s paid at the beginning of each contract term. This means that you’ll pay it again if you choose to stay at the location and renew for another 2 years.

Personally, I think it’s a ridiculous fee, especially if you’re a good renter because you’re the one actually helping the property owner out, but that’s the norm in Japan.

They take out a cleaning fee from the deposit when moving out.

My initial moving-in expenses were something like this:

Deposit: ¥180,000 (1-month’s rent)
Key/thank you money: ¥180,000
1st month’s rent: ¥180,000
Key fee: ¥22,000
Insurance: ¥10,400 (1/year)
Total: ¥572,400 (approx.)

It’s also worth mentioning that in Japan, the tenant is responsible for providing their own appliances.

This includes things like refrigerator, washing machine, and light fixtures. Luckily, electronics stores have sets for sale and you can find appliances at reasonable prices.

Utilities

The rent didn’t include any utilities.

Our monthly utility bills on average for 2 people were something like this:

Electricity: ¥5,576 (depending on season)
Gas: ¥4,804
Sewer & Water: ¥6,975 (once every 3 months)
Internet: ¥4,734
Total: ¥22,089/month (approx.)

I wrote more about utility costs in Tokyo here.

This may total to be more than a lot of other cities around the world. However, to get to live in one of the best cities in the world, a huge one at that, was worth it.

Check out more in Tokyo.

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What it's Like Doing a Marketing Pitch to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government

Over the years working in marketing in Tokyo, I’ve been able to work with larger international companies, small startups and boutique businesses, as well as a couple municipal governments in Japan.

Each project is different, and the desired way of pitching and presenting can vary according to the potential client, but the way that the Tokyo Metropolitan Government does theirs is unlike any other I’ve experienced.

RFP & Initial Phase

In order to even have a chance at presenting, your company has to first be registered as a potential partner in a database. This is to check credentials.

The government will send out an RFP (Request for Proposal) as they head into the next fiscal year, which begins each April. The project in our case, is a one that gets re-evaluated each year, so the period is from April until the next March.

If after your submitted proposal is accepted, an appointment to go and present is handed out.

Pitch / Presentation

Each company is allowed to have 2 people present. They check in with security at the bottom of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building in Shinjuku, then go up to appropriate floor 10 minutes before the scheduled appointment time.

There is a waiting table to wait at, then someone comes to greet you and take you to the presentation room.

Presentation room

The organization of the presentation room is as shown above.

There is a desk and chairs for 2 presenters.

Directly in front are 5 desks each on the panel. They’re made up of government officials and possible a consultant that they work with, depending on the project.

On the side are 3 more people who work with the government and serve as moderators.

Procedure

Once you enter the room, you bow and give your greeting (in Japanese, of course).

One key rule here is that you are never allowed to say who you are or what company you’re from. This is to maintain anonymity so people on the panel aren’t subconsciously swayed by a name.

After all, it’s a government project that’s funded by tax payers, so legally and morally, it’s best to not have give preference to one private company over another. Presenters will be referred to as “Company A”, “Company B”, and so on.

When everyone is ready to begin, the moderators will run a stopwatch for 10 minutes. This is for the entire presentation. Japanese marketing presentations are quite detailed and don’t contain large visuals or impact slides like some Western pitches do, so it’s impossible to cover everything sufficiently in the 10 minutes.

A pitch has to be carefully prepared ahead of time, highlighting the key areas. This is to make the presentation time efficient.

Next, another 10 minutes are timed for Q&A. Here, members on the panel will freely ask questions in which the presenters need to respond quickly and concisely.

Finish

After the Q&A session, the presenters stand up, bow and give their greetings, and walk out to conclude the pitch.

Results are given a little later.

You may check out the project that this was for here.

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Monthly Utility Costs in Tokyo

I lived for a bit by myself and then moved in with my then girlfriend now wife into a different apartment, so I’ll be sharing how much monthly utility costs were at each.

To preface, I’d just like to state that there are of course variables that can affect your overall monthly cost of living, and cost of utilities as well, so I’ll also share some of my personal situations and choices so you can have a little more context.

First, these are the two apartments I’ll be comparing:

• 1K studio (1 room + kitchen), 24 sq. meters (258 sq. ft.), 1 AC/heater unit

• 1LDK (1 bedroom + living room, dining area, kitchen), 47.15 sq. meters (506 sq. ft.), 2 AC/heater units

Furthermore, there are 2 general types of apartments in Japan - “aparto / アパート” and “mansion / マンション”. Aparto apartments tend to be simpler so they may have less insulation, however, they’re generally cheaper rent-wise. Mansion apartments aren’t actually mansions (it’s weird, I know), but they’re usually medium to large sized buildings that use more concrete and likely have a little more insulation, but they’re generally more expensive rent-wise.

Both apartments I lived in and are comparing are the mansion type.

Gas

Provider: Tokyo Gas

Gas is mainly used for the stove and water heater.

This is a utility that can have quite a range depending on your lifestyle, especially with water heating.

Taking baths in a furo - where you soak in a tub of hot water after showering - is done by most Japanese people every day. A lot of foreigners have adopted this into their lifestyle as well, especially in the winter because it’s refreshing and feels good. 

When I lived alone, I never took furo baths. Even now, we rarely use it, probably not even every month except for in the colder seasons.

I usually cooked simple things for dinner when I lived alone, so mainly just for 15-20 minutes to fry some meat and vegetables. Now, thankfully my wife likes to cook, bake and have more proper meals, so the kitchen is used a lot more than when I was living alone.

Single - 1K studio costs

• February: 2,646 JPY

• May: 1,965 JPY

• August: 1,442 JPY

• November: 1,982 JPY

Avg: 2,009 JPY (~USD $17.66)

Couple - 1LDK costs

• February: 5,675 JPY

• May: 5,929 JPY

• August: 2,992 JPY

• November: 4,621 JPY

Avg: 4,804 JPY (~USD $42.23)

Water

Provider: Tokyo Metropolitan Government Bureau of Waterworks

The water bill covers water and sewer, and comes once every 3 months. The bill is for that 3-month period.

Again, whether or not you take furo baths will probably impact your water bill quite a bit.

I’m generally a shower person - I shower once in the evening for about 10 minutes max. In the summer though, I occasionally take a shower in the day as well because it’s so hot and sticky here. Even now with my wife, we will only take furo baths occasionally, usually in the colder months.

When I lived alone, there was almost no fluctuation in the bills, so I’ll just share the average.

Single - 1K studio costs

Avg: 3,717 JPY (~USD $32.64)

Couple - 1LDK costs

• Winter: 6,254 JPY

• Spring: 7,825 JPY

• Summer: 7,040 JPY

• Fall: 6,778 JPY

Avg: 6,975 JPY (~USD $61.22)

Electricity

Provider: TEPCO

Electricity is for the lights, AC/heater, and some miscellaneous items like appliances, intercom, toilet controls, etc.

In both apartments, the lights were either florescent or LED. Lifestyles were pretty typical - lights were turned off in rooms not in use and there was nothing going on like crypto mining or anything like that.

Single - 1K studio costs

• February: 5,644 JPY

• May: 2,696 JPY

• August: 4,170 JPY

• November: 2,471 JPY

Avg: 3,745 JPY (~USD $32.59)

Couple - 1LDK costs

• February: 6,254 JPY

• May: 4,820 JPY

• August: 7,747 JPY

• November: 3,473 JPY

Avg: 5,576 JPY (~USD $48.52)

Internet & Phone

Provider: Softbank

Internet is interesting in Japan as you have to pay your bill to two companies, one is for the connection (usually NTT) and one is to the provider (I had OCN).

My mobile phone service provider is Softbank, and because they also provide internet, they sold me on combining my phone and internet bills together. The cost was about the same, maybe a few hundred yen cheaper, and it’s more convenient to have it all combined together.

The service was in my name so I was able to carry it from my 1K apartment to my 1LDK one.

There are 2 types of lines, one for apartments and one for houses. Mine is the apartment one and it’s a Hikari fiber-optic connection.

Internet

4,734 JPY (~USD $41.24)

My phone plan includes 20GB of data per month that rolls over, but if I talk on the phone, I have to pay according to use. Phone calls are expensive in Japan compared to places like the US, and that’s one reason why most opt to use apps like LINE.

I also purchased my iPhone directly from Apple, so my monthly bill doesn’t include any monthly device payment.

Phone

Avg: 7,570 JPY (~USD $66.00)

Total monthly averages

Single - 1K studio costs (besides phone)

Avg: 14,205 JPY (~USD $123.76)

Couple - 1LDK costs (besides phone)

Avg: 22,088 JPY (~USD $192.44)

I hope that helps. Watch my video to see more.

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How to Survive Summers in Japan

In 2020, the hottest day in Tokyo had a real feel of 116℉/46.7℃. While that’s on the extreme end, summers in Japan are HOT. I can’t stress that enough.

During the Tokyo Olympics, heat became one of the issues and many athletes themselves brought it up.

If you’re like me where you absolutely hate heat and humidity, summer in Japan is not for you. However, if you plan to live in Japan or visit during the summer, you’re going to have to deal with it somehow.

Having lived (survived) numerous oven-like feeling summers in Japan, I’ve learned of a few everyday things that help me a little. They may help you if you’re in need.

Everyday items

1. UNIQLO Airism

Airism from UNIQLO [J] comes in different forms but is meant to help keep you cool in the summer heat.

There are a few different options, but I recommend these seamless, micro-mesh v-necks.

Like many, I used to try to simply wear less clothes in the summer, so I wouldn’t wear an undershirt. These however, help keep your shirt from getting sweaty and sticking to your body. They make it a little easier for air to pass through which helps keep you cooler.

2. Summer pants

I’m a long jeans guy but in the summer, they get put away as it’s just way too hot. Instead, going for lightweight and/or breathable bottoms made for this weather is highly recommended.

My favorite shorts I’ve found are by a Japanese brand called Minotaur, and they are ridiculously lightweight - it’s like you’re not wearing anything. Having shorts are a minimum requirement, but ones like these can have a huge difference to standard, cotton shorts.

They can be a bit pricey depending on the brand, but UNIQLO [J] and some other places have good and reasonable options as well.

3. Menthol sprays

If you go to a drug store or shops like Loft or Tokyu Hands, you’ll find shelves of items such as menthol sprays that help with the heat.

You can either spray them on the insides of your clothes which will give a cool sensation when you wear them, at least for a little while, or you can also directly spray them on your skin. There’s also gels and wipes that have the same effect.

4. Wet towels

Towels that hold moisture and stay cool for a long time can be found in a lot of stores and they’re really convenient, especially if you’ll be outdoors for a while.

I don’t really use them as much in Tokyo, but I used to a lot when I was living in Fukuoka and would bike each day to work under the brutal summer sun. Just wet them and put them around your neck, then re-wet them as needed.

5. Mini fan

Pocket or carry bag-sized mini fans can really help especially on those muggy days, or in trains when ventilation is low or when they get really crowded.

Some fans are tiny and palm-sized, other’s are a little bigger and there are ones with rechargeable batteries that can also be used to charge your phone. A completely different and convenient design are flat ones that can be worn around your neck so they’re blowing air on you hands-free.

6. Powder Lotions

Powdered lotions, often with some kind of scent or deodorant, spreads a fine powder on your skin to help make you less sticky.

Sea Breeze might be the most popular brand but I personally like 8x4 because the powder to liquid ratio seems to be better. Japanese summers will leave you hot and sticky, so this can really help.

Got any other good tips?

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Tokyo Olympics 2020: What it's Been Like Living in Tokyo

When Tokyo was announced as the location for the 2020 Olympics, it was a huge deal.

It represented the return of Japan to the forefront of the global stage, it turned Japanese words like “omotenashi” into marketable slogans, it further invigorated the push for foreign tourism, sparked new businesses, renovations and developments eying the year.

Ultimately, it gave hope to country that was being called stagnant.

Truth be told, I love the Olympics.

The Dream Team, Kerri Strug landing, Apollo Anton Ohno, Usain Bolt, Vince Carter’s massive dunk, Mosely on the moguls, Michael Phelps, the men’s swimming relay comeback, Beijing’s mind-blowing opening ceremony, Rikako Ikee’s coming back from leukemia. All of it.

I like seeing people from around the world who are at the top of what they do, come together and compete, and let me feel excitement and sense greatness in sports - most of which I would never watch or even know about if it weren’t for the Olympics.

I had always wanted to see the Olympics in person. 

A friend and I talked about wanting to drive up from San Francisco to Vancouver for theirs. So of course when I was sitting in my apartment in Fukuoka watching the TV and “Tokyo 2020” was announced, it was just such a big thing. I’d have to stay a long time more in Japan, but I had a chance to live in the host country. I set this arbitrary date that I’d try to be in Japan at least until then.

So of course, when tickets became available, I had to try and get some.

Olympic Ticket Lottery

The process was tedious. You had to go on a site, to make an account that allowed you to go to another area to TRY to buy. For the first site, just to get in it said I was about the 900,000th person waiting to even make an account.

Finally after a few hours I got in, had to receive an automated phone call to confirm my identity, and then I could apply for tickets.

You could apply for up to 30 tickets, so if you’re going with another person, that’s 15 events. But for each event, you had to choose things like if it’s a medal round, what seating section you’re applying for - and of course these prices varied. It was a lottery.

And then the results came in.

Many in Japan were pissed because very few people got tickets and it seemed like there was more preference for foreigners. But my wife and I lucked out - between the two of us, we got 3 events, pretty good ones too. We got 2 medal round swimming events and 1 men’s basketball semifinal.

We had the option to buy, and they were not cheap. The basketball one was around USD $100 per person and swimming was about USD $700 per person. But we thought, it’s a once in a lifetime experience, so we bought all of them knowing we had the option to sell one back later.

But then the pandemic hit.

Tokyo’s Olympic Problems

The Tokyo Olympics had a lot of problems from the start.

There we’re rumors of inside deals, the logo being stolen, issues with the Zaha Hadid designed stadium and its replacement, Yoshiro Mori and his sexist comments, the shadiness of celebrated choreographer MIKIKO being pushed out after she designed the opening ceremony and replaced with someone who made rude remarks about Naomi Watanabe, the musician who bragged about severe bullying, the other who joked about the Holocaust…

You get the point.

Questionable handling of Covid-19

As Olympic problems mounted, Japan’s handling of the virus continued and is still getting mixed reviews.

Emergency declarations

There have been 4 emergency declarations in Tokyo.

Without the legal power to completely lockdown, these declarations have been largely focused on restricting night life - from closing shops early to banning alcohol sales. More recently, rules labeled as silly such as no drinking after 8PM or being only able to drink by yourself have been introduced.

Each time these declarations are lifted, the situation gets worse, and while the first 2 helped decrease people out and about, the last two haven’t really done anything.

Emergency declaration impact 1-4. Light purple represents people movement 2 weeks prior and dark purple represents the first day of the emergency. Based on a study of Docomo phone data in 5 areas of Tokyo.

It seems like people are a bit over the silliness.

Slow and tedious vaccine rollout

And while this was going on, in the critical months leading up to the already postponed Olympics, there’s a super slow vaccine rollout and just a lot of mixed messaging.

We have concerts and events being cancelled, businesses being asked to close early, and we have a push to bring in thousands of people from around the world for the Olympics.

Meanwhile, I finally received my voucher to qualify me to get the vaccine last week in mid-July. The actual timeline of getting the first jab however is September.

Olympics or Covid-19?

Of course all of this makes it look like the government has their priorities mixed up and isn’t acting in the best interest of their people.

It’s no surprise that there’s a lot of people pretty vocal about how crazy this all is. There’s been talk about the incompetence of the government and how it’s all about the money… Dentsu.

I too think that holding the Olympics during this situation is kind of nonsense.

The decision to do or not do the Olympics is not that simple.

We don’t really know all the details, however. If you look back at Twitter, you’ll find that people already had strong opinions for a while just based off of headline reading and mixed frustrations only to have new information come out later. And while the new information may not sway opinions, it does point to the fact that we still don’t really know everything other than it’s stupid and that the IOC is looking like a bunch of assholes.

One thing we overlook is the fact that the the government isn’t just one thing. There’s a lot of internal arguments going on.

For example, Olympic-related events were planned in various wards around Tokyo, but some ward governments were refusing the metropolitan government because of the potential liability. 

And Dentsu… it’s easy to hate Dentsu, the agency that’s associated with “Karoshi” - death by overwork and Olympic greed.

But there’s not all that much talk about the small businesses that depend on work from them. Dentsu doesn’t put boots on the ground, it’s a lot of outsourcing to small and medium sized companies who then outsource to even smaller companies, freelancers and artists.

Those people are the ones whose livelihood depends on these kinds of projects.

If you’ve visited Tokyo in the past few years, you might’ve noticed a lot of the construction and renovations going on. There’s a lot of new things made for or at least made with the Olympics in mind. And their stopping or cancelling are bound to have an impact.

It’s just an unfortunate overall

Especially with this being such a huge event that was portrayed as a pivotal moment for a country, you can’t help but think that things would’ve been handled just a little bit better to make sure it happens in the best way.

Hope things will go well. If you want to watch my video on this, please check it out.

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Japanese-Americans: 4th vs. 2nd Generation

I am Japanese-American. I grew up in the US before moving to Japan. I’ve talked about that experience before.

As with any minority, Japanese-Americans tend to get grouped all together. While most of us do share many similarities, when you dive a little deeper, many differences begin to reveal themselves.

Where we grow up and live are huge factors.

In WWII when Japanese-American Nisei (2nd Generation) soldiers served in the US military against German Nazis, and these differences were seen.

Hawaii soldiers called their continental mainland Japanese-American comrades “Katonks”, and viewed them as arrogant, more focused on themselves, and viewed them as thinking of themselves highly due to speaking more American English.

Mainland Japanese-American soldiers called Hawaii ones “Buddhaheads”, and viewed them as loud, unrefined and as bullies while speaking a non-standard, Hawaii pidgin English.

Even in my time, I’ve noticed differences between those from my home in Hawaii and others who grew up elsewhere.

Another big factor is when your family immigrated.

I myself am 4th generation, meaning that it was my great-grandparents that first came over. My family has been in the US from the early 1900s, which means significant events in American history helped impact and shape the family.

I grew up surrounded by English speaking family members. There was no Japanese language in my day-to-day. My parents cooked Japanese or Japanese inspired foods sometimes, but it was often a variety of cuisines. We celebrated some Japanese events, but just a few, and they may have been altered over time. My grandfather fought in WWII in the 100th Battalion/442nd Regimental Combat Team, so I grew up aware of American racism against Japanese-Americans.

But take a 2nd generation Japanese-American, for example. They’ve likely grown up in a Japanese-speaking family environment. Their parents probably cooked a lot of Japanese food if they have access to ingredients. They may celebrate more Japanese events and in a more authentic manner. And because their family immigrated after WWII, awareness about those specific struggles is likely less. And there may be more of a split feeling between their American and Japanese identities, especially if they are close to their extended families in Japan and have visited over the years.

After being interviewed in Japanese YouTuber Nobita from Japan’s video on Japanese-Americans living in Japan, another interviewee reached out to me. We decided to have chats on what it’s like growing up as 2nd and 4th generation Japanese-Americans, and in Hawaii versus Florida.

Check it out.

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A Juice Brand Meant to Help Farmers in Japan

• This small juice brand crowdfunded on Japanese crowdfunding site Makuake

• They make 100% fresh juice made from wasted fruit

• It’s a DTC brand started and operated by a Gen-Z team

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I love Japanese fruits - they’re beautiful, well taken care of, and sweet beyond words.

Unfortunately, a lot of it goes to waste, largely due to the Japanese consumer market’s high demand for visual perfection.

While many are trying to change this, I found out about a small company looking to make fresh juice out of these wasted fruits.

The Fruits Company was started by a young Gen-Z team looking to help farmers who face a large portion of their crop being unsellable as well as tackle a little bit of the food loss problem.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by The Fruits Company™ (@the_fruits_company)

Things like purpose-driven brands, CSR (corporate social responsibility), or SDGs (sustainable development goals) are still relatively new concepts in Japan. This isn’t to say companies are bad, they just haven’t buzzed in culture in the same way they have in other markets.

The Fruits Company ran a crowdfunding campaign on Japanese crowdfunding site Makuake, and blew past their goal rather quickly.

It’s a DTC brand, or direct-to-consumer, and they mainly sell online via their Shopify eCommerce site. They’ve also been doing a lot of pop-ups and in-store collaborations with various cafes and coffee shops.

The Fruits Company
The Fruits Company Shop

Their grape juice, which I tried, was made with Japanese Kyoho grapes. If you saw my guide on Koshu, Yamanashi, the grape capital of Japan, you may know about them.

The juice was really good and incredibly sweet, and I’ve grown to like it the more I drink it. I’m not really a fan of artificially flavored grape juice, but this one tastes like the real fruit.

It comes in a 500ml glass bottle and is 100% real fruit juice. Only Vitamin C is occasionally added to help with the color.

I recently talked with one of co-founders, Ryohei Tokunaga, and you can see him speak about their company, what they want to do, and about his perspective on Japanese Gen-Z consumers in this video.

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Japanese Health Checks with Socialized Health Insurance

Since I began working in Japan, I’ve been required to get annual health checks. I decided to give a glimpse into them, but first I’ll briefly explain what the health insurance is like in Japan.

Socialized Health Insurance

Japan is a country with socialized health insurance, something that seems very much in debate back home in the US.

There are basically 2 types of health insurance in Japan: Japanese National Health Insurance and Japanese Health Insurance.

The former is for everyone, mainly aimed at unemployed, students, etc., and the latter is through an employer. They’re more or less the same thing, just some details are different as well as who does the paperwork.

I work at a company so mine is the latter.

Tax for the socialized health insurance isn’t that much.

A lot of the debate in the US is how much of people’s incomes will be taxed. I came across this anti-socialized health insurance person’s tweet:

😆When you have 46% of your income taken to pay for socialized medicine, don't bitch. Remember this. https://t.co/LxWLvAUL9q

— HipCheck Granny (@HipCheckGranny) November 8, 2020

I thought, that’s not right because I’m not taxed that much.

Of course each country’s system is different, but of the roughly 37% that gets taken out of my monthly paycheck, only about 5% is going to the socialized health insurance.

How much are copayments?

The health insurance covers 70%. When you reach a certain age, that goes up to 90%.

Luckily, I haven’t had any serious incidents or procedures. For visits to internal medicine doctors or dermatologists, I don’t think I’ve ever had a copayment of more than USD $20.

My most recent use was for a dental visit, which is part of the same insurance.

I found a US-educated, fluent English speaking practice in Tokyo and decided to go. This was my first visit:

First-time fee
3 x-rays (left, right, panorama)
Cleaning
= 4,290 JPY (~ USD $41.04)

But then I had a cavity and went back for a filling. The insurance won’t cover any ceramic filling, but it covers white composite.

Local anesthesia
White composite filling
= 2,470 JPY (~ USD $23.63)

Quite a good deal, in my opinion.

Health check

Before going into the health check, we’re required to complete a form. It’s a scantron of questions. Most of them are basic, but there are questions that I found strange the first time, like, “Do you eat faster than those around you?” and “Do you walk faster or slower than people your age?”.

We usually do the urine test at the clinic, however this year we were told to fill up a tube and bring it in.

The health checks I’ve been to are done in somewhat of an assembly-line type of fashion where we’re called in and out of different rooms, each doing a different check.

Checks done during the health test

• Eye exam

• Hearing test

• Height, weight, waist measurements

• Chest x-ray

• Blood test

• EKG test (I think)

• Final doctor consultation w/ stethoscope check

Watch my video to see more.

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Life in Tokyo as of October 2020

• Tokyo has been trying to move towards opening up more and more

• Cases have been steady recently, and business is going on relatively normally

• The Japan government is encouraging domestic travel

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It’s October 2020 and over the past several months, life in Tokyo, as with many places around the world, has been one dealing with trying to function amidst a pandemic.

Tokyo has had about 2 waves - One in spring where it implemented a semi-lockdown, and a bigger one in summer that saw no hard prevention measures taken.

Things have been edging towards returning to something more normal.

This is what I’ve been seeing living in Tokyo. I’ll briefly talk about cases, mask wearing, travel, business, and overall people sentiment.

CASES IN TOKYO

Recently, there have been between 100-300 new cases each day, on average. There's no mass testing that was ever implemented, but there haven’t been any reports of dire situations either.

In fact, in a report by the government’s Ministry of Health, Labor and Welfare, 18,000 fewer people died this year until July when compared to 2019. This is different from the trend over the last decade where the number of deaths have steadily increased.

When looking at cause of death, the cause that dropped the most was due to respiratory illnesses.

This seems to be quite different from back in the US and a lot of other countries for some reason.

MASK-WEARING

Mask-wearing has been a debate for quite some time now, primarily in the West, but it never really was in Japan.

That is, aside from a crazy guy who ran for governor, tried to hold a “cluster festival”, and got a group to ride the train mask-less to make trouble while claiming COVID-19 is just a cold.

Wearing masks was already a cultural norm in Japan for reasons ranging from protecting others or against colds to protecting against hay fever to covering a zit.

People don’t want to wear them all the time, however, but there is a pandemic going on so the majority will. Most wear a typical, surgical mask as they did before, rather than KN-95s or ones with vents.

According to a survey, 83.6% of people say they wear masks during close-range conversations with others. The same survey also found out that 87% of people wash their hands after returning home.

It’s not perfect, but it shows that people are generally mindful about the virus.

TRAVEL

International travel has more or less come to a halt, aside from certain exceptions. Because of that, Tokyo’s streets are basically tourist-free… which is really nice!

Over the past several years, Japan started to boom as a major tourist destination, so businesses catering to travelers have really taken a hit.

To help with this, the Japanese government is incentivizing domestic travel.

GO TO TRAVEL CAMPAIGN

The Go To Travel campaign is a Japanese government campaign that encourages residents to travel domestically.

They’ve allocated over USD $12B+ to give people up to 50% off airfare, train tickets, hotel reservations, etc.

To get the maximum discount, you have to book through pre-decided agencies, but we can still get a decent discount by designing our own trips and booking directly.

Tokyo - as a destination and its residents - was initially left out due to having the high number of cases. As of October, it’s been included.

Personally, I take it as a sign to explore the country that I’m in a little bit more.

Following the Go To Travel campaign, there will be similar campaigns for eating out, events and shopping. We’ll see what happens.

BUSINESS

Many businesses have undoubtably taken a hit. While eCommerce and delivery usage has increased, it won’t offset the losses at brick-and-mortars, which is huge in a city like Tokyo with so much people traffic.

Despite this, I personally haven’t seen many visible changes… yet.

I’ve seen videos in the US and even Seoul where a lot of shops have closed down and are now empty. Recently, I’ve gone out in Tokyo to places like Shinjuku, Shibuya, Aoyama, Omotesando, Harajuku and Ginza, and haven’t seen mass closures.

Although I’ve heard that companies here are facing the hardest time they’ve ever had, there haven’t been mass layoffs yet either.

Furthermore, retail clients of ours at work have maintained their online ad budgets or even increased them. Some are understandable due to what they sell, but others such as a mid-range watch brand, are a little unexpected.

Could we be in a bubble? Maybe this year’s impact will be seen in next year’s and the following years’ budgets and news. I’m thinking probably.

PEOPLE SENTIMENT

Tokyo’s streets have been filling up slowly over the past several weeks.

This could be due to a variety of reasons; people growing accustomed to living in a world with the virus, offices asking for more face-to-face time, shopping due to the season changing, a lack of a major spike similar to the US and other countries, most people acting responsibly, simply being tired of being at home, etc.

It’s not fully back to normal, and people are still refraining at some level, but there has been an uptick since the summer.

If you’d like to see more, please watch the video I made.

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Making Sukiyaki with Real Wagyu

Japanese Wagyu beef needs no introduction to anyone who has been lucky enough to have a taste of the real thing. It is perhaps the best beef around.

So when we were gifted a box of sliced Wagyu from Ningyocho Imahan, a highly rated restaurant/butcher in the Ningyocho area of Tokyo [MAP], we knew we had to put it to good use.

Kansai-style Sukiyaki

We decided to make Kansai-style sukiyaki, slightly different from the more common Kanto-style sukiyaki found in most places in Japan and overseas.

The two styles refer to different areas. The Kanto area consists of Tokyo and surrounding prefectures such as Kanagawa (Yokohama, Kamakura, Hakone), Saitama, Chiba, Ibaraki, Tochigi (Nikko) and Gunma. The Kansai area consists of Osaka, Kyoto, Nara and Hyogo (Kobe).

The main difference in styles is the cooking of the meat.

In the Kanto style, the meat is put in the pot together with the vegetables and other ingredients and simmered before eating.

In the Kansai style, the meat is cooked separately and eaten before the vegetables and other ingredients are put into the pot.

Because we had some good beef and wanted to enjoy some of it on its own, we followed the Kansai style.

Watch the video to see how it’s made.

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Shopping at Costco Japan

Wagyu steaks, bulgogi bakes and fresh fish galore are just a few of the differences at Costco in Japan.

As of 2020, there are 27 Costco warehouses in Japan.

Their business membership is 4,235 JPY a year, their gold star membership is 4,840 JPY a year. You can use your US membership in Japan as well, but apparently a Japanese membership is required for online ordering and delivery.

Costco is one of the beloved shopping destinations for many expats as they sell a lot of items from back home that can be hard to find at normal shops in Japan.

They do, however, have a lot that are only in Japan.

Here are some of my favorites at the Tamakyo Costco location, just west of Tokyo.

Japanese Wagyu beef steaks. A4 grade. From Hokkaido and Ibaraki prefectures

Japanese Wagyu beef, sliced for stir fry. A4 grade. From Tochigi and Iwate prefectures.

Japanese Wagyu beef, sliced for yakiniku BBQ. A4 grade. From Hokkaido and Iwate prefectures.

Korean bulgogi

Beef garlic rice

Fresh fish for sashimi, and 50-piece sushi platters

Uni packed in salt water

Ikura. From Hokkaido prefecture.

Hawaiian ahi (tuna) poke

Salmon

Nihonshu (Japanese sake) and other alcohol

Egg tarts

Pineapple smoothies, soft serve ice cream from Hokkaido, cold brew, coffee and lattes, cheeseburgers, hotdogs, pizza, bulgogi bakes, clam chowder and chicken caesar salad at the Costco food court in Japan

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First Day Back in the Tokyo Office After Lockdown

In Tokyo, we had a stay-at-home request issued by the government that lasted for the majority of April and May 2020.

When the emergency declaration was lifted, some companies were quick to bring everyone back (despite few adjustments to the work environment), while others, like my company, are moving towards trying to work out a balance.

I went back to the office for the first time in early June as we are trying to get team members to be in the office at least twice a week.

I made a vlog to show how that first day was.

Returning to office work makes you reconsider its value.

What I realized was that while office work and remote work each have positives and negatives, it depends on the person and tasks at hand.

As a non-native Japanese person who isn’t fluent at Japanese but works primarily with Japanese colleagues, being in the same physical space helps eliminate existing barriers when it comes to understanding meanings or contexts.

It’s also beneficial when working on a team project or if there’s a lot of collaborations happening to get things done.

On the negative side though, it really made me question the need of commuting every day.

Despite it only being about 40 minutes door-to-door for me, the stopping of what I’m doing, getting ready, then commuting twice per day is an interference in production. While I can work on my phone, it’s often not as easy as a laptop.

Tokyo trains also can become very congested, and with the virus still around, it’s a little nerve wracking to be body-to-body in a box with little ventilation.

Working in the office isn’t comfortable as well due to mask-wearing and no new seating arrangements or protective adjustments.

Because of this, I noticed that I drink far less water throughout the day.

How will companies adapt moving forward?

It will be interesting to see how companies continue to adapt. There is a need to due to changes in people’s psychologies and behavior.

People like Andrew Yang have said there’s been 10 years of progress in the last 10 weeks. How much that’s true with regards to Japan is unknown, though.

A survey revealed that in mid-April, a couple weeks after the emergency declaration was made by the Japan government, 64% of small to medium-sized businesses did not move to remote work. [J]

There’s also the issue of Japan as a whole being resistant to let go of traditional work practices - many of which require a physical presence. And of course, there is the workforce that is accustomed to it.

On the flip side, there are companies like Twitter and Shopify saying they will be making efforts to move to 100% remote work.

As of today, Shopify is a digital by default company. We will keep our offices closed until 2021 so that we can rework them for this new reality. And after that, most will permanently work remotely. Office centricity is over.

— Tobi Lutke 🌳🌲🛒🕹 (@tobi) May 21, 2020

While I think that may be a bit farfetched for most, the boldness of the move is admirable.

What companies can’t do is simply go back to exactly how things were. The world has and is changing since this global pandemic.

Let’s see what happens.

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Living in Japan as a Japanese-American

There is no universal experience living in Japan as a foreigner.

A lot of the perspectives being shared out there come from those who are more obviously foreign, but what about the perspectives of Asian foreigners? And in particular, what about those who are Japanese by blood?

I fall into that category.

To give you some context on me, I’m a 4th generation Japanese-American, which means my great-grandparents immigrated to from Japan to the US.

I grew up in Honolulu, Hawaii, which has a lot of Asian influence and a lot of Japanese influence. After high school, I moved around on the US West coast before moving to Japan. I first lived in a small area of Fukuoka prefecture before moving to Tokyo, so I have the experience of both environments.

Japanese, but altered.

One of the things I realized while living in Japan was that what some things that I had known to be Japanese in the US, was sometimes old or not Japanese at all.

Names for example. Many of my Japanese-American friends have Japanese middle names. I found out that a lot of those names are very old, likely because those were the names common during the time that our ancestors immigrated.

Yakudoshi was another. Growing up in Hawaii, I was under the impression that they were special years and people would have Yakudoshi parties. In Japan, I found out that they’re a set of bad luck years and are not to be celebrated. Going to a temple or shrine to pray about it is more common.

American, but…

The degree to which people in Japan can understand and accept you varies from person to person, and more generally, rural and city environments play a factor. People in the cities are more likely to have had some experience with foreigners or traveling abroad.

The different between ethnicity and nationality isn’t one that’s easily understood. Japan, after all, is not all that diverse.

I’ve come across people who easily understood my background and others who could not comprehend it even if their life depended on it.

In general, there is always a “but”, or explanation that needs to happen after saying that I’m American. This can be that I have Japanese blood or that I’m from Hawaii. I don’t really get the simple “Oh ok”as a Caucasian person would after saying they’re American.

Invisible foreigner

I’ve never been stared at (unless I deserved it), never had people fascinated by my hair, never been immediately refused service. This tends to be different from the experience a lot of more obvious foreigners have.

On the other hand, I’ve never been given special treatment for photo ops, never had Japanese people running to talk to me so they can practice conversations, and never got put on camera during English summer camps with foreign teachers when I used to teach.

This ability to blend in better and almost be an invisible foreigner has its advantages and disadvantages.

I made a video talking about my experience living in Japan as a Japanese-American. If you’re interested, please take a look: Living in Japan as a Japanese-American

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Working in Japan Can Be Lonely

This time working remotely has let me reflect a little on why I sometimes feel lonely working in Japan.

Since moving to Tokyo in late 2014, I’ve been working in marketing at a Japanese agency. My immediate team has just under 20 people. Everyone is Japanese aside from myself and a couple of Taiwanese who are either based in Taipei or frequently in and out of the Tokyo office.

I’m generally fine working on my own.

When working in marketing, however, especially with regards to strategy and creative - things that I do - it’s best to be able to collectively brainstorm and have discussions where ideas are bounced off each other.

But I don’t really have that on an everyday basis. Nor am I able to fully take part in a lot of discussions or training events.

There are a couple main reasons why a separation exists.

1. My Japanese isn’t good enough.

Not only does my Japanese language capability provide an obstacle in my comprehension and ability to effectively communicate, my not being as culturally in tune as the Japanese people around me can sometimes put me on a different wavelength.

A recent example is when a colleague talked about an “online business card trading” service being amazing, especially during this time of remote work. I understand business card trading is a part of Japanese business culture so the service may be useful, but I consider it more to be a timid half-step forward. This is especially the case for me since while on a business trip to the CES convention in Las Vegas in 2015, I was about to give my business card to someone when he simply waved his phone over my neck pass and got my info. I remember clearly how I felt like an outdated fool. That was 5 years ago.

And of course there’s just a lack of commonality in the pop-culture we’re a part of for general conversations. Compare App Store, Apple Music or Netflix popularity rankings - Japan is often quite different from a lot of other countries. I wouldn’t expect it to be like my or another foreigner’s home countries obviously, but it does mean that there may be even less common ground to connect on.

2. Lack of “International”

In relation to non-Japanese residents living in Japan, this is a really general outline of society:

LEFT: You have typical Japanese people. The majority doesn’t speak English, have little or no international experience and aren’t used to working with non-Japanese.

RIGHT: You have the various foreign expats who may or may not speak some Japanese and are in Japan for a short-term.

MIDDLE: The internationals. They have experience both in Japan and out but some may not be truly native-level speakers anywhere, they likely speak a language that mixes English, Japanese and perhaps another language. Many of the capable ones will work in international companies.

I fall into the “international” category, probably leaning to the right because of my mediocre language skills. But because almost all of my colleagues and company itself falls firmly into the left side, it takes more effort for someone like me to try to include myself.

The truth is a lot of Japanese - and this is for any country, not just Japan - don’t have an interest in things foreign. My non-Japanese colleagues and I have been told in the past that there are some colleagues that we can’t work on international projects with because of a lack of interest and ability to comprehend things foreign. This wall and lack of workaround is an unfortunate reality that only impacts the foreigners.

I was reminded of this separation when the only email to unsubscribe from the English newsletter I sent out on behalf of our team was, in fact, our own team’s email address. That meant a colleague decided to unsubscribe from it.

To be honest, I thought that was fucked up considering it’s clearly sent from our own company. I know better than to unsubscribe from our Japanese or Chinese communications. Our non-Japanese communications are generally ignored, which can feel isolating, but to take action to stop it is another level.

But other than that, there’s no real maliciousness or purposeful segregation. It’s mostly whether or not someone wants to make an extra effort to connect. I was astounded when I took a look at how much time I spent on just trying to understand communications, time I could be spending on being productive in something else. That’s completely on me.

This feeling of separation and created walls, though, is to be expected unless a company is really striving to be diverse.

I think this is a challenge for any Japanese company attempting to be more international. How do you do that without straying from being “a Japanese company”? It’s a structural revision tied to core values that needs to be carefully planned out and purposefully followed. I don’t have an answer for that either, but I know it’s not just adding foreigners onto the payroll.

I’m lucky that, for the most part, I have some colleagues who I do connect with, others who are in that left side but do their best to do so, and that there’s no discrimination or anything.

Yes, it is often lonely and there is a separation that’s often felt. After all though, the choice of where to work, where to live and what to do is our choice and up to us.

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Working From Home in Tokyo

Unfortunately, shortly after I talked about Tokyo being in a mystery situation regarding COVID-19/Coronavirus, cases spiked.

The situation in Tokyo (as of April 2020)

The country declared a state of emergency in early April. Apparently, the law forbids the government from enforcing a full lockdown, so Tokyo and several other prefectures are in more of a quasi-lockdown, with the government firmly requesting adjustments to business and working from home.

The goal is to cut person-to-person contact by 70%.

While many non-essential workplaces have abided, some haven’t.

Luckily, my company has had a work from home option since the beginning of March.

What I do

I work at a marketing agency, TAMKO, and most of the projects I’m on are with international clients so I’m never in physical meetings with them anyway.

Even on regular office days, it’s common for my teammates or myself to not always be in the office, so communicating through chat or video conferencing is already something we’re used to.

The daily routine

Slack is our main communication tool

The majority of our communication happens over Slack. To clock in, we type one of several messages and it’s recorded automatically. Most people use “おは” (oha) which is short for ohayogozaimasu, or “good morning.”

Almost all communication happens in Japanese.

I go about my day checking and replying to emails (we use Gmail), working on client projects as well as internal ones, and having an occasional meeting or virtual team lunch.

Uber Eats has become more popular

For lunch, I try to make something simple or eat leftovers, but sometimes there’s nothing or I’m lazy.

My usage of Uber Eats has gone up quite a lot.

I’m not alone, apparently.

The app has recently been in Japan’s top 5 of the App Store’s free app rankings, and has gotten additional exposure by people like celebrity Tsubasa Honda, who recommended the service in a YouTube video that got 1.8M views in a little over a day.

I’ve been watching a lot of YouTube while I eat lunch. I tend to watch videos where I can learn something from, videos from channels like CNBC, Vox, Gary Vaynerchuk, Business Insider, some vloggers and so on.

Amazon has also been pretty great.

Amazon delivered to a apartment delivery box

For the most part Amazon deliveries have been so far unaffected by the situation.

Amazon Prime deliveries in Tokyo are really fast, sometimes within 12 hours if you order the night before.

My apartment also has a delivery box system in case we aren’t home or able to get our deliveries when they come in. It’s been helpful as we order online a lot, especially during this time.

About twice a week, we have an all-hands team meeting. We were using Google Hangouts but have more recently switched to Zoom for these.

Team meeting on Zoom

If you’d like to see a day in motion, feel free to watch the video I made.

Otherwise, I hope everyone is doing as well as can be.

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