Berlin, Germany
Spending a couple days walking around Berlin, a city that I used to be wary of.
Berliner Dome on Museum Island
Berlin, to me, had an interesting mix of high efficiency and order that you'd find in a place like Japan, mixed with that wild and free vibe that you could feel in the States.
Germany, particularly Berlin, always seemed intimidating to me at some level due to the history, as dumb as that may be. I quickly found a lot of things about the city that I liked however, like the balance I mentioned, and I was able to have a really good stay.
I visited the city with a couple of friends while on a trip around Europe together in 2012.
We arrived at Berlin Central station by ICE train in the evening, coming in from Brussels. From there, we caught a train to Senefelderplatz station where we had rented an apartment to stay at through Pfefferbett, a hostel that also rents out properties that they own in the area.
Despite having some key problems, the apartment was located conveniently near two stations, was quiet, and nicely decorated. There was remote window blinds in the master bedroom, and the apartment had large glass doors that either opened up to a fairly large balcony or could be vented slightly as windows.
The Walking Tour
On our first full day, we joined a free Sandemans New Europe walking tour that started at Brandenburg gate (it seems that many do).
Our guide was actually a British expat who fell in love with the city and never returned home, learning a lot of interesting facts during her stay so that she could provide us with some amazing information about the things we saw.
Some of the sights we visited were the Holocaust Memorial (below), the last Nazi building which became a tax office, Checkpoint Charlie (which is quite touristy), Bebelplatz memorial, the purposely regular parking lot where Hitler's bunker used to be, and finally ended up at Museum Island. Even though it was a free tour, most of us gave a tip because of how informative she was.
The Holocaust Memorial, beautifully designed and very impactful.
The Berlin Wall at the Topography of Terror.
Fall leaves on Museum Island.
Berlin was relatively easy to get around on our own once we finished the tour.
A lot of the main tourist spots are within walking distance or easily accessible by train. The city is big but not overcrowded, and it's quite clean. Even the public restrooms are clean, really clean actually, although you do have to pay a small fee to use most of them (makes sense).
We decided to check out the iconic TV Tower one evening.
Before heading up, we ventured around the neighboring Alexanderplatz station, where there was a small open market with shops and food stalls selling local eats like deep fried potatoes with applesauce.
Berlin TV Tower
To end our day, we went to grab a bite of currywurst (a German fast food dish - sausage with ketchup and curry powder) at CurryKultur, a random outdoor eatery nearby our apartment before heading to Qum Bar, a hookah/shisha bar right down the street from it.
The next day, we roamed the city on our own to sights such as the Reichstag government building and the Berlin Wall at the Topography of Terror where you can learn everything about the Nazis and what they did.
We later headed out to the Friedrichshain area, a more hippie/bar type of neighborhood, to see the Oberbaumbrücke Bridge and the East Side Gallery of the Berlin Wall.
Oberbaumbrücke Bridge and artwork from the nearby Eastside Gallery below.
We went to a REWE - a supermarket near our apartment. It's always interesting to check out a local supermarket to compare with your own. It was pretty big, and it resembled an American market pretty closely - brightly lit, spacious, well air-conditioned. Prices seemed to be quite cheap as well.
After picking up a few supplies, we went to catch the last few minutes of an outdoor street fair near Brandenburg Gate that happened to be the celebration of the Berlin Wall's takedown. Big bratwursts, beer and Jäger on tap.
I wish we had at least another day or two in the city. There was definitely a lot more to see and experience. I'll just have to put it on the list of places to go back.
Hasir
A Turkish restaurant that we randomly sat down for a late lunch at. It's off the main street, so it's quiet with a little bit of outdoor seating. The food was tasty, nicely presented and the service was decent.
Maison Courage
Nice hearty German food that was nearby our apartment. Sausage, pork, chicken, some green beans and a baked potato. The atmosphere of the restaurant was almost like a dimly lit home.
(I found out that this place closed down)
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Brussels, Belgium
A day wandering the beautiful streets around Grand Place.
Brussels, particularly the central area near Grand Place, is really beautiful. I visited the city on a trip around Europe with a couple of friends, between stays in Antwerp and Berlin.
We stayed at the Floris Hotel Arlequin Grand Place, a short walk from Brussels Central station and conveniently located near Grand Place. It was a three-person room in a renovated building with an upstairs loft and windows overlooking the alley below.
While wandering around, we came across Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert. It's the area's central shopping mall, and had a bunch of luxury shops and random boutiques under a beautiful, enclosed, glass ceiling.
Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert
While there were a lot of tourists exploring the city, it was never overwhelming. The only time that there was an over-abundance of tourists crowding in an area was on our walk to check out the Manneken PIs, the famous Brussels statues of little boys peeing. Odd when you think about it, but if you're in town, it's just one of those things that you have to check out.
Manneken PI
Brussels overall was gorgeous and a great stop, but we did have an issue at a restaurant a block away from Grand Place. We went to get some mussels, famous in the country, and weren't exactly given an honest price. The bill was a bit of a shock. When we were getting seated, we noticed a pissed off group of tourists getting ready to leave - they were probably mad about the same thing. I don't remember what the name of the place was, unfortunately, but just make sure you're extra clear on the prices you'll be paying.
Walk the alleys, grab a seat at an outdoor cafe, eat some waffles (try Waffle Factory), and find some good chocolate. And last but not least, if you're lucky enough to be in the city on a clear night, do spend some time in Grand Place (photo at the top).
It would've been nice to have more time to really explore the city, of course, but given that we had a limited amount of time to split between each European destination on our itinerary, 1.5 days in Brussels seemed to be about right.
Pierre Marcolini
It's already internationally famous, but Pierre Marcolini was started right here in Brussels. Their shop here is a lot bigger than the others that I've seen - 2 full floors of chocolates of all types. I went with some assorted packs and a chocolate-covered marshmallow. There's a bunch of other good chocolate shops nearby but you can't go wrong with this one.
Delirium Cafe
Delirium is a popular bar near Grand Place. The basement is really lively, sometimes with live music, and they serve a few thousand different types of beer. No joke - they apparently set a world record. There are a few tables in the alley outside, which we opted for, if you want to sit down and be able to hear the conversation you're having. Definitely a good spot to try out some Belgian beers. Follow their pink elephant logo.
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Antwerp, Belgium
Exploring the quaint central area of Antwerp for a day.
Antwerp Central station
The main area of Antwerp has a quaint feel and is very walkable. I stopped here for a day while traveling through Europe with a couple of friends, arriving at Antwerp Central station after catching a train from Amsterdam.
The station's architecture (pictured at the top) is impressive and is probably one of the nicest stations I've been to. It's organized, isn't chaotic and is clean. In fact, Antwerp as a whole was a pretty clean city.
We stayed the night at Leonardo Hotel Antwerpen, right outside the station. After putting our things down and getting settled in, we made our way to a few sights.
Our first stop was the Cathedral of Our Lady. It's a gorgeous church with an area in the back where you can quietly take photos and watch the ongoing processions. During our time in Antwerp, this was the most memorable sight.
Cathedral of Our Lady
Het Steen castle is a small castle on the Scheldt riverside and was the final sightseeing spot on our list. We didn't walk inside, choosing to roam the area instead.
Het Steen castle with the Lange Wapper statue outside
View of the Cathedral of Our Lady from the Het Steen castle area
Antwerp Central station
Our stay in Antwerp was brief and I wish we could have explored more. We even skipped dinner...but not before getting our fill of some good treats.
Fritkot Max
You have to get some Belgian fries when you get into Belgium, right? We hit up Fritkot Max, a pretty popular spot for fries at Groenplaats, a square near the Catheral of Our Lady. The amazing thing about this place is the variety of sauces that you can serve yourself. Curry, andalouse, tartar, samurai and a bunch more.
Australian Home Made Ice Cream
Ok, it's weird getting "Australian" ice cream as the name says in Belgium. This was some amazing ice cream, though, and we had to go back again for a second time. Perfectly creamy, and as you can see in the second photo, there was a crowd. We got addicted to their Speculaas (Speculoos) flavor, made after the cookies that originated in the area.
Quetzal
This place came as a recommendation from a friend, Kristi (if you're looking for yoga in Hawaii, check her out!), who lived in Belgium. It's located in the central area and provides some excellent sweets to take a break with as you're exploring the area. Go with anything chocolate!
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Amsterdam, Netherlands
Can never get enough of Amsterdam as it is one of my favorite cities in Europe.
![Buildings in Amsterdam - [BUY GLASS PRINT]](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63f8b23b0626755198127ae3/1677532687162-6NNHZK0U5TTD4GD1S1ER/amsterdam-building-01.jpg)
Buildings in Amsterdam - [BUY GLASS PRINT]
Amsterdam just may be my favorite city in Europe that I've visited. Beyond the image that many of us have in our minds as it being a nightlife city full of unenforced taboos, Amsterdam is just flat out gorgeous.
I've traveled to Amsterdam a couple of times - once with Contiki, a tour company for people under 35, and a second time with a couple of friends traveling around Europe on our own. After getting a taste of Amsterdam the first time, one of my friends and I knew that we just had to make it a point to go back. And so we did.
Forgoing a typical hotel, we decided to rent a boathouse from a kind, accommodating local couple for a few days with House-Boat Hotel, basically an Airbnb for Amsterdam houseboats. Fantastic choice and I recommend anyone traveling to the city to do the same. There's just something about waking up and having a cup of coffee right on the canal. Literally.
Our houseboat, the first one on the right.
Bicycle culture
You'll see very few cars around as Amsterdam is centered around bicycling, walking and public transportation. In fact, we were told that the citizens of Amsterdam were actually the ones that pushed for this. Admirable. Do know and keep in mind, however, that because bicycles are essentially their cars, they take them very seriously. Bicycle lanes are expected to be clear of pedestrians at all times, so pay full attention whenever you're walking. Bicyclists will fly by at full speed and they will get angry at you if you're standing in their "highway."
We wanted to join in on the bicycling-around-town fun so we went on a tour with MacBike, a bike shop with a location right at Amsterdam Central station. It's a nice activity if you're looking to get a little tour of the area. If you go with the organized tour, though, the pace is somewhat fast because everyone is biking fast here!
If you're not biking and want to get to destinations that are a little far for walking, there is an above and below ground metro system. The tickets are a little different from most cities as it doesn't charge by destination but by time; from when you need it first to when you need it last. It runs to Amsterdam Central station so you can conveniently catch it after riding the train in from Schiphol Airport.
The night scene?
Admittedly, we didn't "go hard" on the night scene, but we did get a glimpse. The city is pretty lively at night, nothing crazy for the most part, but people are out and about and having a good time.
If you venture into the Red Light district, you'll know. No photography is allowed while in the area and it's definitely an adults-only place. There are shops with neon-illuminated windows with girls in skimpy, scandalous outfits in them either behaving provocatively or just sitting or standing there. No nudity or anything like that, but you could guess that all that happens on the inside. There are police officers patrolling the area and they will take no nonsense. A group of guys near us seemed to be engaging in suspicious dealings and we watched a female officer - one who'd take all of us down with one hand tied behind her back with relative ease - carefully studying them with the most piercing of eyes. It was like a lion stalking its prey. Chills. She then walked right up like a boss and interrogated them without any hesitation at all. It was impressive to say the least.
Coffee shops
Coffee shops, while not a "night" thing, are scattered all around the city. There's nothing conspicuous about them, and they don't ask for ID's or passports to check if you're a local or not. It's simply a coffee shop. But with weed. Half the menu for coffee, the other half for weed. Half the people in there drinking coffee, the other half smoking. It's an extremely surreal experience.
If you find yourself looking for a bite late at night, check out a Febo (my Yelp review). It's a local fast food shop that only sells food in slots that individually open up after you pay. Fried food heaven from croquets to chicken to fries.
While there are popular tourist attractions to check out like the Anne Frank Museum or the famous local brewery's Heineken Experience, we didn't do either. We spent most of our time walking the streets, wandering into the many random shops and boutiques around the city, and hanging out at our boathouse. And while I wouldn't call myself a big Heineken fan, I drank some of the local beer on tap and will say it tastes quite a lot better than the version we get overseas.
Put on some walking shoes and just roam the streets and alleys. Amsterdam is a gorgeous city, especially when I experienced it in the fall. It's vibrant in one spot and silent and peaceful right around the corner. Its architecture and cityscape are worthy of admiration on every block, and there is no shortage of nature around. If I ever considered moving to Europe for a bit, Amsterdam would be right near the top of places I'd consider.
Stubbe's Haring
I had been a fan of raw fish for a long time, but mostly in sushi or sashimi form. Having it in a sandwich made me a bit nervous but I was pleasantly surprised by its lightly pickled flavor. Stubbe's Haring is already popular, and because it's located near Amsterdam Central, making it convenient to grab a bite.
Szmulewicz
Randomly stumbling into this restaurant one night, we ate kangaroo for dinner. The menu was quite exotic to us and a couple of us ordered the least "risky" dishes listed, only to unanimously agree that the skewered kangaroo in mango sauce was the best. Feel at ease to try something new here as you won't be disappointed.
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San Francisco
San Francisco is the most unique city on the west coast. As a former resident, here are some recommendations.
The Golden Gate Bridge from Battery Spencer
You could say that San Francisco has the most character out of any city on the westcoast. Whether it's techies, artists, musicians, entrepreneurs, hippies or crazies, you'll find them all here in abundance.
Being born in San Francisco and wondering what living there would be like, I decided to move to the city where I finished college and began my work life. I ended up living there for about 4 years. It's a small city, approximately 7 x 7 miles (11.3 x 11.3 km), so it's got a lot of condensed buildings on top of numerous steep hills that separate the bay from the Pacific Ocean.
Powell Street @ Union Square
San Francisco is quite diverse, not only in types of people but ethnically as well. So much so that voting documents and a lot of signs have English, Spanish and Chinese written on them. It makes sense being that California borders Mexico and San Francisco served as a historic immigration gateway to the Pacific.
You don't need a car to get around the city unless you're planning to head outside of it. In fact, it's one of my least favorite cities to drive in; the steep hills, all the "no left turns" and lack of street parking make it such a pain. Though they're fine, I'm not a big fan of the Muni buses or Metro light rail either (I'm probably spoiled), and their BART subway is mainly to get in and out of the city. Luckily, Uber and Lyft rides are abundant and really convenient for in-city transportation.
Street parking is perpendicular on steep hills
I've been to just about every neighborhood in San Francisco and each has its own little feel to it. Do check out the main spots first.
Main attractions
Golden Gate Bridge - no explanation needed as it's the icon of the city and one of the most recognizable landmarks in the country.
San Francisco's Chinatown happens to be the largest outside of Asia. It also neighbors Little Italy and the nightlife portion of Broadway street.
Chinatown at night with the Bay Bridge in back
Union Square is arguably the city's central area with department stores, the main shopping mall and more. From there, you can catch the Cable Car on Powell Street which passes the crooked Lombard Street as it makes its way to Fisherman's Wharf.
Market Street @ Union Square
You can catch a ferry from there to Alcatraz, the famous prison located on the tiny island in the middle of the bay.
Alcatraz
Haight Street at Ashbury has been the center for hippies, and there's a lot of interesting shops and boutiques there.
Nearby Golden Gate Park is huge, in fact it's bigger than Central Park in New York. There's museums and events there, and even buffalos.
Besides those, here are a few other favorites of mine:
The Marina
The Marina/Cow Hollow area is on the north side of San Francisco. It's somewhat of a quieter neighborhood with a lot of boutiques and small bars and eateries centralized around Chestnut street. I suggest the late afternoon as a good time to hang out there. After, you can walk over to the Palace of Fine Arts which is randomly tucked in there.
Palace of Fine Arts
Clement Street
This street in the Richmond district between Arguello Blvd and Park Presidio Blvd is known as the second Chinatown because of the many Asian shops and restaurants. My favorite places there are Genki Crepes (crepes and Japanese snacks, here's my Yelp review) and Burma Superstar (for their tea-leaf salad!)
Hayes Valley
This area on Hayes Street between Franklin and Laguna Streets is a quaint nook that sits near heavy car traffic areas. There's a bunch of fashion boutiques as well as small eateries, and there are often small events here during the daytime on weekends.
Other activities:
See the Yoda Fountain (map) at Lucasfilm in the Presidio.
Feed the wild parrots of Telegraph Hill. They fly down to the Embarcadero area in the late afternoon/early evening and are extremely tame. The best place I'm aware of and have fed them at is Ferry Park (map). Grab some bird feed and listen for them - they're loud!
Twin Peaks. Arguably the best views of San Francisco. You can also go to Tank Hill (map), a nearby and more local viewpoint near Cole Valley.
Yoda fountain (cool so he gets a photo feature!)
Speaking of views, my favorite spot to see the Golden Gate Bridge is from Battery Spencer, an old war bunker that looks down upon it. My photo at the top is taken from there. It's on the north side of the Bridge (map) and you have to walk a little bit to get the viewing spot, but it's 100% worth it. If you only go to the visitor's center, you're only seeing half of what you could and should. Another scenic spot is from Treasure Island (map). You can see both the Bay Bridge as well as the San Francisco city skyline in the distance.
San Francisco from Treasure Island
The newer half of the Bay Bridge, facing Berkeley/Oakland, from Treasure Island
Definitely venture outside of the San Francisco if you have the time. My favorite things to do and that I'd recommend are wine tours in Napa Valley, lunch in Sausalito, and hiking in Muir Woods.
And of course, don't forget to EAT!!
El Farolito
Best Mexican food I've had, period. After late nights out, I'd trek to the Mission area with friends and pick up some huge burritos before heading home. Their quesadillas (pictured) are more than filling enough, full of ridiculous flavor and cheese that oozes out the back. For extra flavor, there's a self-serve salsa bar as well. El Farolito's is quite popular with a line usually heading out the door, so be prepared to wait for a little bit. Don't worry though, it's totally worth it.
Brandy Ho's
The only Chinese food that makes my mouth water. While there are a lot of good Chinese food joints, Brandy Ho's Hunan food in particular stands out above the rest. My favorite dish that I'd recommend is their shredded beef in white wine sauce (pictured), and I am sure to order it every time I get a chance to eat here. It was my last meal before moving out of San Francisco.
Thanh Long
It's hard to find crab made better than this. Their roasted garlic butter crab is juicy and packed with flavor... and messy, so wear their plastic bibs! It's a little out of the way for most people, in the residential area of outer Sunset, but the light rail will take you right to it as it passes on the street in front. If you're celebrating an occasion or just want some good crab to dig into, this is a great place to check out.
PS: House of Prime Rib is another favorite of mine but I have no photos :(
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Las Vegas
A Disneyland for adults who want to eat, gamble, party and have a good time.
They say "What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas," so how shall I document my travels here?...
I've been to Vegas several times and experienced it in different ways - on family trips, trips with friends and trips for business. Vegas is not a place for everyone, but it is worth checking out as its "Disneyland for adults" vibe is quite unique.
Vegas appeals to people looking to do any of these three things: Gamble, party or eat. There's definitely an abundance of each to say the least. You'll find tables, machines, clubs, bars and buffets anywhere and everywhere.
Finding something to do in any of those categories is easy. A couple other things that I've induldged in while in Vegas are shopping and going to events.
Fashion Show is a big mall and is centrally located on The Strip, across from the Wynn. A little down the road are spots like the The Venetian, Caesar's Palace and the water show at The Bellagio. Keep in mind though, that places in Vegas are further away from each other than you think. Another place I like is the Premium Outlets, near Downtown. A lot of people's favorite brands are there and it's one of, if not my favorite outlet mall that I've been to.
The shows in town are always changing but are always worth it if you can get a ticket. They either have to be a huge seller or have the longevity to sell show after show in the same location, so these are almost guaranteed to be good. The two events I've seen was a concert (Sting & The Police) and a UFC fight (saw Hawaii legend BJ Penn).
If you're not that into the gambling, partying and pigging out, you'll still find something to enjoy about Vegas. I will say though, even if you're not into those types of activities, the lights and sounds all around can get to you. I've gone with little intention to do any of those and left wondering where all my money went!
Bacchanal Buffet
Las Vegas has no shortage of all-you-can-eat buffets, but Bacchanal in Caesars Palace is arguably the most well known and popular. It's been ranked as one of the top buffets in the US in numerous reviews, and features an array of foods from crab legs, sliced beef and a whole lot more. You may have to wait a couple of hours, but they do have a service that will message you when your time is coming up.
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NYC: Manhattan
New York City is the world's gathering place. Roaming around and taking in the city was quite fulfilling.
New York City is the world's gathering place and I could sense that right away. Looking around, there are people from all walks of life and you hear a variety of different languages wherever you go. I've yet to visit a bigger, more diverse city and I don't think I ever will.
I've been to the Big Apple a few times and am nowhere near to having explored even a small fraction of it. To be honest I haven't really tried to, opting instead to "just be" and leisurely roam around. No itineraries, no tight schedules - just hanging out with my good friend who lives there and walking the streets.
There were, of course, a few things that I made a point to do and that I'd recommend and do again.
The Brooklyn Bridge
Walking the Brooklyn Bridge from Brooklyn to Manhattan at dusk was great because not only is it an easy walk full of great views, the views also change dramatically as the day turns to night. The Manhattan skyline begins illuminating as you walk towards the city and the cars start to streak lights as they zoom by down below.
The Empire State Building
View from The Empire State Building.
For anyone who likes nighttime cityscapes as much as I do, heading up the Empire State Building after sundown is incredible. 360-degree views of the massive city from an open-air deck at the top of a skyscraper that was built at a ridiculous speed, being completed in just over a year.
The Statue of Liberty
It may be the most touristy thing to do in New York, but the Statue of Liberty is on everyone's list and no visit is complete without seeing it. Don't be like me and not see it on your first visit - long story short: Overbooked flight, couldn't join my friends who went before I arrived. Thanks United ;)
I didn’t have a burning need to go right up to Lady Liberty, so I rode the Staten Island Ferry because it gives a view of her at a cheap price. Just hop off when the ferry docks, u-turn and hop right back on. I definitely wasn’t the only one doing that.
Here are some other places I visited:
Freedom Tower. Stop by the 9/11 World Trade Center Memorial nearby to pay tribute to the victims and fallen heroes.
The Guggenheim Museum.
Grand Central Station.
Washington Square Park.
Other places like Chelsea Market, the High Line (a park & rec area built from a converted railway), SoHo, or seeing a Broadway/off Broadway play are other fun tourist activities to do. I don't consider myself someone big on plays, but the first time I went (RENT), I was completely blown away. To see the talent that these actors have is mind-blowing.
Of course I walked through Central Park and Times Square as well.
Jazz band playing in Central Park.
Times Square.
I wandered random streets and people watched.
Guys playing a pick-up basketball game with spectators watching.
Walking into any random store, talking to some random person (and being OK with being ignored or told to hurry up and move along - personal experience!) adds to the trip.
Halal Guys
Halal guys is already famous and it's for good reason. Not only are they open late, but they're affordable and damn delicious. They mix Middle Eastern and Mediterranean flavors and their foods really hit the spot. Quite possibly the best food truck food I've ever had. I'm definitely stopping by the next time I'm in the city.
Serendipity 3
First seeing this in the movie Serendipity, I decided I had to try their frozen hot chocolates. Kate Beckinsale and John Cusack made them look so good! It was a bit of a wait outside, but popping into this quaint little, hole-in-the-wall style dessert cafe was great, especially since I liked the movie.
Juice Generation
My favorite fresh juice and smoothie bar. I've tried a few of their smoothies but their Mr. Greengenes with hemp milk is my favorite. Creamy and smooth with perfectly balanced flavors.
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Chicago
The third largest city in America, it holds its own and has its own vibe that separates itself NYC and LA.
Chicago is that third city often getting left out of the conversation when talking about the main cities to visit in America, always in the shadows of New York and Los Angeles. It's the capital of the Midwest, however, and it definitely has a unique feel that separates itself from its bigger brothers.
Being into photography, it's a blast to shoot around as I found it to be an extremely photogenic city.
I went to visit my sister who was living there, so having a resident guide take me around was nice. While Chicago's a big city, it still had a somewhat laid back feel to it, letting you explore at your own pace. To top it off, it has one of the most beautiful skylines you can find.
One of the unique characteristics about Chicago is the canals that run through the city. They run right between some of the iconic towers that shape the skyline. We took a boat tour through them and it was a very good experience. The one that we took was Wendella Boats, and their Original Architecture Tour will take you by and explain about some of the city's most historical buildings.
Taken from Michigan Ave's DuSable Bridge.
Michigan Ave is one of the main streets, and is known as the shopping street. Even if you're not looking to get some new clothes, it's just a nice walk - lined with tulips and various flowers when I went - and it also crosses one of the main canals for a good photo op.
Another iconic spot is Cloud Gate, otherwise known as "The Bean" at Millennium Park. After walking around and taking some cool mirror pics, you can check out the Frank Gehry-designed Jay Pitzker Pavillion nearby.
Cloud Gate aka The Bean
Jay Pitzker Pavillion
Conveniently next to it is Bike and Roll, a place you can rent bicycles to ride around the city. This was such a good idea and I'm glad that we got to do it. You can head out towards the lake and head south. You'll pass Buckingham Fountain in Grant Park towards the Shedd Aquarium, The Field Museum, Adler Planetarium and Soldier Field. We didn't go into any of them, choosing to enjoy the city views then head up a little north to explore a bit.
Buckingham Fountain
If you go north along the shoreline, you'll pass Navy Pier. Continue on to the sand volleyball courts, then look back and you'll see another nice cityscape behind you with the buildings wrapping around the lake.
Chicago is quite a great sports city as well, as it's the home to NFL (Bears), NBA (Bulls), MLB (Cubs & White Sox) and NHL (Blackhawks) teams. We checked out a Cubs baseball game at Wrigley Field, and while I'm not a big baseball fan, it was fun and you could sense the history there.
Chicago was a good time and I can't believe that I hadn't visited it earlier. It's very well rounded and there's something for everyone. There's also a lot of good food:
The Angry Crab
There's no way to make this look appetizing, but this is one of my favorite eats that I've had on any trip. Seriously. I've been to other delicious, cajun seafood on the table, dig in with your hands and get messy type of places, but this one is the best. The flavor is maxed out and with spiciness levels named after local professional sports teams, it's fun. You can't go wrong.
Giordano's
What's a Chicago trip without some Chicago deep dish pizza? Giordano's was one of two shops that was recommended to me and it didn't disappoint. I had some of the cheesiest, wholesome slices ever here and would go again for sure.
Wildberry
If you're a pancakes or brunch fan, check out Wildberry. It's immensely popular and, as you might have guessed, is known for their berry pancakes. I'm not a big sweets person nor a pancake one so I only tried a little, but I'm quite sure anyone who is a fan of them would love it. I went with their Los Altos Benedict, which featured chorizo sausage. Delicious.
Del Seoul
If you ever wished for a combination of Mexican and Korean food, Del Seoul is a pretty good wish granted. It's got a good balance of both. I tried an assortment of tacos as well as their kim chee fries. Nothing was a disappointment, it should definitely be considered if you're in the area.
Molly's Cupcakes
Molly's Cupcakes is a cute little shop a little north of the downtown area, right down the street from Del Seoul. They've got small batches of creative combos of cupcakes and a nice, homemade feel. The creative vibe continues as the counter chairs are actually playground swings, and their window sign is quite different (last pic).
Subway station at O'hare International Airport.
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Los Angeles: West LA
The West LA area has some of the most iconic settings in Southern California, and is one of the best places in the state.
Los Angeles is the second largest city in the US and the anchor of the west coast. The West LA area is what people typically imagine when thinking about California - palm trees, open sky and beaches.
I was fortunate to live in the Santa Monica area for a couple years, so I know first hand that there are endless places to go and see.
Santa Monica Pier in the distance
Santa Monica Pier is one the most iconic locations in LA, and with rides and games there, it's a nice place for kids or for a date. In close walking distance is Third Street Promenade, a walkable shopping street of a few blocks and the Santa Monica Place mall at the Broadway Ave end. There's a little bit of everything here, from food and shopping, outdoor hangout spots, and street performances.
Third Street Promenade
Venice Beach is another area to check out. While it's known for its hippie slash hipster vibe, it's equally as beautiful as it is entertaining. The area leading up to the beach has canals that, well, are the Southern California version of Venice.
Venice canals
Parking in the area can be a real pain, so I recommend catching an Uber or Lyft. Once there, you can rent bicycles and ride along the beach's bike path. You'll pass the random shops, Muscle Beach with serious body builders, the famous basketball courts and skateboard park as you go by the Boardwalk. To top it off, there's a pier here as well.
Skateboarders at Venice
View from the Venice Pier
If you're looking for more shopping, there are some boutiques nearby on Abbot Kinney and Main Street. Both are nice walks in any case if you're not looking to go have more bags in your hands. There's also a fair share of cafes and eateries in both areas as well.
Montana Ave is another area I would go to sometimes. It's a quaint area north of Third Street Promenade with some nice cafes and boutiques amongst a very residential area. Take a walk in the neighborhood and you come across all sorts of architecture.
If you're looking for a drink after a day of sightseeing, check out Blind Barber. It's a barber shop in the front but walk through the back door and you enter a hip lounge bar with some good eats. When it comes to food, LA is a mixing pot of a lot of different cultures and cuisines, and California has a lot of fresh fruits and vegetables grown in-state to supply these food spots. There are endless places to check out, but here are a few others (of many) to check out.
Urth Caffe
These cafes were started in southern California from organic coffee blends and teas. The food and baked goods came after, many of which reflect the southern California cuisine of fresh vegetables with a little bit of a Mexican twist. Pick anything off their menu but my go-to's are their Tostada Salad and their Organic Green Tea Boba (smoothie with tapioca balls in it).
Diddy Riese
Located in Westwood, right off the UCLA campus. They're most famous for their ice cream sandwiches made from their freshly baked cookies. Absolutely delicious, and the fact that it's less than a couple dollars each, fantastic. Stop by if you can.
Hakata Shin-sen-gumi
The first time I tried a bowl of Hakata Shinsengumi ramen, I thought it was great. I then moved to Fukuoka, Japan where the capital is Hakata - this type of ramen's hometown. Visiting LA again, I went to Hakata Shinsengumi thinking I probably wouldn't think it was good after being in Hakata all the time. To my surprise, I found the tonkotsu ramen here to be quite good and probably the best you can get in LA. The broth and noodles are authentic, and while the topping options may venture away from traditional, they encompass everything good that you can put in a bowl of ramen. Approved.
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Kyoto: Beyond the Shrines
There's a different side of Kyoto that goes beyond the temples and shrines, and they are worth experiencing.
Kyoto is absolutely loaded with traditional Japanese sights to see, especially in the temples and shrines category. Most of us want to explore other things as well, however, and Kyoto definitely has a lot more to explore.
I've traveled to Kyoto several times, seeing it in 3 out of the 4 seasons, and it's been a beautiful experience each time. If you're looking for temples and shrines, check out some of my favorites here.
If you're looking for other things in Kyoto, here are some sights that I'd recommend:
Arashiyama
![Arashiyama bamboo grove - [BUY PRINT]](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63f8b23b0626755198127ae3/1677533290418-4MNEZGY9WLSCUYCV3VE7/image-asset.jpeg)
Arashiyama bamboo grove - [BUY PRINT]
The bamboo grove in Arashiyama is an incredible experience. It's so tranquil (pray that there aren't too many tourists) to be surrounded by these enormous bamboo stalks reaching to the sky.
It's a short walk from Saga Arashiyama train station, and after walking through the grove, you can follow the path back to the river and the main town of Arashiyama.
The town in Arashiyama has lots of different Japanese restaurants and craft stores that sell everything from handmade trinkets to umbrellas that display designs when wet.
One of the main attractions is Arashiyama station where lanterns mimicking Japanese fabric design lead you on a path around the train platform. Wait for the sun to go down and take a walk through it.
Lanterns at Arashiyama train station
Hozugawa-kudari Boat Ride
The Hozugawa-kudari boat ride is a 16 km boat ride that ends up in Arashiyama.
This boat ride has been around for a long time where skilled boaters would navigate wooden boats down the river while avoiding the numerous rocks.
The journey begins after a short walk from JR Kameoka station and lasts for roughly a couple of hours. I went with my parents in the fall, and the waters were quite calm the entire way down. Near the end, other boats come by selling traditional Japanese snacks such as dango (rice cake balls) and smoked squid.
If you ride one of the morning boats, you can check out other parts of Arashiyama for the rest of the day.
Nijō Castle
Nijō-jō, or Nijō Castle, isn't what you'd expect a castle to look like. The castle itself resembles more of a building at a temple or shrine, and isn't outlandish or decorated any more than other sights around town.
There's a nice garden to take a walk in but perhaps the most famous and well known attraction is inside. The "nightingale floors" make a chirpy sound when walked on, a form of security in the old times meant to protect from being creeped up on.
Cormorant fishing in Uji
Uji is a short train ride from Kyoto Station and is known to have good matcha.
In the evening, fishermen head out in the river with a burning bucket and some comorant birds tied up. These birds dive for fish, and before they can swallow it, the fishermen squeeze it out of the bird's neck.
While you can see it from the riverside, the boat tours bring you a lot closer to the experience.
Nishiki Market
Nishiki Market [J] is a covered alley that sells all sorts of Japanese food items. Pickles, candies, rice, fish, you name it.
It's centrally located, parallel to Shijō-dōri Street and west of Teramachi street, and is a cool old-fashioned Japanese market type of experience.
http://www.kyoto-nishiki.or.jp [J]
Kitano Flea Market
This flea market is one of many in Kyoto, but it's huge. It happens only on the 25th of each month, however, and is at the Kitano Tenman-gu shrine.
The walk around the shrine is pretty and the flea market spans the streets of the surrounding area. You can find everything from antiques to kimonos to old collectables, and there are stands selling yakitori meat skewers and other food items as well.
Bargaining is normal here and you can really find good deals. If you're lucky, you can find the knife-maker selling Japanese pairs of knives for US$40 or less.
Nanzen-ji
Ok, so Nanzen-ji actually a temple. There's actually a lot to see and definitely check it out, but one of my favorite things about Nanzen-ji is the Shirokaku Aqueduct which carries water from Lake Biwa. Its western-looking, red brick architecture seems out of place, but it's quite beautiful. Heading up to the top makes for a nice walk.
If you're stopping for food, make sure to eat tofu, yuba (tofu skin) and drink matcha, as Kyoto is known for both. There's many places to choose from but I do have a recommendation.
Yachiyo
Yachiyo is a ryokan hotel, but they have a restaurant as well. It specializes in tofu, so the there's a lot of that along with the main course is yudofu (tofu hot pot). It's an excellent Japanese "washoku" meal experience, my family and I are repeat customers.
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Kyoto: Temples & Shrines
Good at any time of year, Kyoto is best known for its temples and shrines. Here are some to definitely see.
Despite having been to Kyoto several times, it has never gotten old. For a foreign traveler, it represents "Japan," as the former capital is full of historic temples and shrines.
Fall is the ideal season - and my favorite - to travel to Kyoto, especially if the fall leaves are peak in color. Seeing the temples and shrines at that time of year surrounded by the reds, oranges and yellows is one of the most beautiful sights in the country.
There are so many historic sights to see in Kyoto that you can rule out seeing them all. Not going to happen. But here are some must sees temples and shrines:
Kinkaku-ji
Kinkaku-ji, the famous "Golden Pavilion," sits quietly surrounded by water and the area around it has the same vibe as well (besides the photo area in front of it). Even with the flood of tourists storming here, it sill manages to be a pretty peaceful place.
http://www.shokoku-ji.jp [J]
Kiyomizu-dera
![Fall leaves at Kiyomizudera in Kyoto - [BUY PRINT - Enter KYOTOFALL for 10% off]](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63f8b23b0626755198127ae3/1677533424558-XW65MXS13W9EHEGNJR6H/image-asset.jpeg)
Fall leaves at Kiyomizudera in Kyoto
Kiyomizu-dera sits on top a hill surrounded by Japanese confectionary shops, restaurants and crafts. The temple's main hall is known for it being only built from wood.
Being one of the more popular attractions in the city, it gets quite crowded. Towards the end of the walk through, there are three waterfalls that you can drink from, each meant to help you in a different area of life: Health, longevity and success in studies.
During the fall, the temple does a light-up at night. The line goes quite a ways down the street but if the leaves are at peak, make sure you suck it up and wait. It's absolutely worth it.
![Fall leaves at Kiyomizudera in Kyoto - [BUY PRINT - Enter KYOTOFALL for 10% off]](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63f8b23b0626755198127ae3/1677533427972-U00TPR76S2I4WA0TVCAS/kyoto-kiyomizudera-fall-leaves-03.jpg)
Fall leaves at Kiyomizudera in Kyoto
Fushimi-inari
Fushimi-inari Taisha. This shrine's tunnel of red gates has become one of the iconic views of Japan in recent years.
It's a 15-minute train ride from Kyoto Station, and is right next to Inari Station. The afternoon is the best time to visit since the light shines through the gates to create a beautiful effect.
The tunnel of gates go up a long ways and while it's a good hike, it's not necessary to go all the way up.
Heian-jingu
Heian-jingu [J] stands out due to it's white and orange design. You can see it right when you enter, but make sure you take a walk in the garden as well.
Nearby is the Philosopher's Walk, a path named after a philosopher, Kintaro Nishida, and full of sights that can invoke deep thoughts. Take a walk through the path when you're done with the shrine.
http://www.heianjingu.or.jp [J]
Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji
While there is a temple, Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji is most known for its natural surroundings. It's most beautiful in the fall, and during the peak period, "beautiful" is an understatement. The variety of colors and their vibrance are incredible.
There are a more temples and shrines to see in Kyoto, and some may enjoy different ones from this list. None will disappoint. Be sure to check out other sights to see in Kyoto as well if you're in town.
Fall leaves at Eikan-do Zenrin-ji at night
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Osaka
Known for being Japan's capital of comedy, Osaka is an outgoing, lively, party city.
Known for being Japan's capital of comedy, Osaka is an outgoing, lively, party city.
Dotonbori
Many of Japan's popular comedians are from Osaka, and the local dialect of Japanese - Osaka-ben - is often mimicked and used around the country in casual conversations.
Older women here are famous for fashion such as animal-print jackets, and it's said that if you pretend to shoot someone with your fingers in the city, they'll act out their death and take part in the fun. I haven't tried that personally, but I've seen the leopard prints!
Locals like to drink here, many times until the wee hours of the morning, and are generally more likely to be open to random strangers than other cities.
While there's room for both, people often tend to be either Team Tokyo or Team Osaka. Culturally, the two can be rather different, even to things like which side of the escalator to stand on (Tokyo: Stand on left. Osaka: Stand on right.). I tend to be more Team Tokyo, but I have friends who prefer Osaka.
Osaka Castle
Osaka kids with decked-out bikes.
Umeda, Shinsaibashi, Dotonbori, America-mura (America Town) and Namba Parks are some places to venture to and check out.
Umeda is right next to Osaka station and vibrant at night. There are small streets full of izakayas, perfect for jumping in for some casual Japanese food and drinks.
Shinsaibashi and Dotonbori have a lot of shopping, and are some of the more photographed areas of Osaka. Both are electric at night, and the Glico Man sign in Dotonbori is one of the iconic sights in the city.
America-mura is another shopping area and has streets of boutiques geared towards the younger crowd.
Namba Parks is a shopping mall that serves a double purpose as a park. It's fresh architecture attracts everyone from casual shoppers to couples to photographers.
Osaka Station
![Osaka Station train platforms - [BUY PRINT]](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63f8b23b0626755198127ae3/1677533517427-PGVULAUN1B84APUYC7NN/osaka-station-tracks-01-web.jpg)
Osaka Station train platforms - [BUY PRINT]
Some of Osaka's famous foods are takoyaki (doughy balls with a piece of octopus inside), okonomiyaki (a type of Japanese pancake), taiyaki (a fish-shaped, doughnut type of snack with a variety of fillings inside) and udon.
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Nara
A cultural day-trip from Kyoto and Osaka, Nara is full of history and... deer.
Nara is a must do day trip if you're staying in Kyoto or Osaka. It's full of historic buildings and has the free roaming deer that has become popular amongst tourists. The deer has even become the city's official mascot, named Sento-kun.
You can easily get to Nara from Kyoto and Osaka stations, ending at Kintentsu-Nara station. I've never actually stayed over, but I've found that a trip out to Nara does require a full day.
Nara Park is a short walk from the station, and there will be small cafes and shops selling Japanese items as you get closer to the park. I recommend making sure you check out Kōfuku-ji, Kasugataisha and Tōdai-ji, all of which are historic.
Kōfuku-ji
Kasugataisha
The inside of Tōdai-ji
Tōdai-ji is probably the most famous in the area. It's a few hundred yen to enter (depends on which ticket you buy, there's also a museum). One of the interesting activities on the inside is attempting to go through a small square in one of the wooden pillars. Little kids have no problems but I haven't taken the risk - it's tiny!
There are places scattered around the park that sell senbei (Japanese rice crackers) for the deer. You can bow to the deer and after they bow back, feed them. You can get extremely close and personal with them as they are accustomed to interacting with people, but some of them can get aggressive at times and try to grab that senbei out of your hand. I'm sure they come across people who tease them with it.
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Fukuoka
Fukuoka city is Kyushu's biggest, and rated as amongst the best places to live in the world.
Updated Oct. 2024
Fukuoka City is the 5th largest city in Japan
It’s consistently ranked as one of the most desirable places to live in Japan
Many Japanese consider it to be a top destination for foodies
Fukuoka is one of my favorite places in all of Japan. I lived in the prefecture for 5 years, often visiting Fukuoka City, and quickly grew to love it for so many reasons. I may have a bias since it’s my “Japan home” in a sense, but I think it’s quite overlooked considering what it offers.
How to get there
Fukuoka Airport is an international airport with many flights flying into it directly. It’s also a 1.5-2.5 hour flight from Osaka and Tokyo.
Fukuoka is one of the most convenient cities I’ve been to in Japan. From the airport, the main train station, Hakata Station, is only 2 subway stops away. The second main station, Tenjin Station, is only 5 subway stops away on the city’s main Airport Line.
About Fukuoka City
Fukuoka City is one of Japan's five largest cities and is the biggest on the southern island of Kyushu. It's the capital of Fukuoka prefecture, which sits at the top of the island and spans across from its eastern to western shores.
The city is consistently ranked as one of the most desirable places to live in Japan due to reasons such as convenient access, good urban/nature balance, somewhat moderate climate, and relatively low cost of living compared to other Japanese cities. In a public survey by Fukuoka’s government, 96.2% of people answered that it is "easy to live in," and the population growth rate is the highest among major cities in Japan. [J]
It has also been ranked in the world's top 10 in Quality of Life by Monocle.
Unofficially, the image of Fukuoka that many Japanese have is that it’s a place with delicious foods, is one of the top prefectures for women, and has a cute local dialect, “Hakata-ben”.
There are 2 main downtowns in Fukuoka City: Hakata and Tenjin. Both have many businesses, shopping and places to eat, and are only 3 stops away from each other by subway. The Shinkansen and other express trains stop at Hakata Station, making it better for access around Kyushu, but Tenjin has more boutiques and more nighttime activities.
Housing in Fukuoka City
Rent in Fukuoka City is considered to be reasonable, especially when considering that it’s a major city and access to conveniences is high. The average monthly cost for a 1k studio apartment in the main Tenjin area is 62,200 JPY (USD $424) and a 1LDK single bedroom apartment is 109,200 JPY (USD $744) as of October 2024. [J]
Here’s a video of my trip to Fukuoka in 2022 where I introduce places I went:
Tenjin
Tenjin is my personal favorite part of town due to the abundance of shopping, food and it just being really walkable.
Department stores like Parco and Daimaru are centered right around Tenjin station, but if you walk a few blocks west, you'll hit an area called Daimyo. This area has a lot of smaller shops, boutiques and places to eat. The feel of it is a bit like the side streets of Tokyo's Harajuku/Omotesando area, if you've been to Tokyo before. At night, there are bars and clubs, as well as some yatai food stalls.
Nakasu
The Nakasu area is known to be the adult nightlife area, with dance clubs, hostess clubs and bars. It’s actually a really nice area with riverside walkways that are great for taking a stroll on.
It’s also home to the one of the main yatai food stall areas. Fukuoka is known for these yatai, and it’s really impressive how the chefs manage to set up every day at around 5pm and cook up delicious dishes all through the night in such a small space. It’s a very close and exciting vibe at these yatai, and there’s a lot of interaction, whether it’s with the chef or the other guests around you.
Momochi
One of the best views for photography is the Fukuoka Tower area near Momochi, a 15-20 minute walk from the Nishijin subway station.
The most famous shrine nearby is Dazaifu Tenmangu. You can get there by train from Tenjin station, and the road leading up from Dazaifu station to the shrine area is lined with shops selling Japanese confections and gifts. If you go further in from the shrine, you can check out the Kyushu National Museum, which is worth adding onto your trip as it has various special exhibits and a big glass wall that reflects the surrounding nature.
Fukuoka also has a relatively well known festival, Hakata Dontaku, that takes place on the streets in central Fukuoka city. You'll see people dressed up in traditional wear carrying and pulling big wooden structures, shouting chants and spraying water.
Shin Shin
You may have heard of Hakata ramen before, or Fukuoka-born chains like Ichiran or Ippudo, but Shin Shin is one of the most famous "local" Hakata-style ramen shops.
The interior of its original, hole-in-the-wall location is covered with signed cards and posters from Japanese celebrities.
Their pork broth is tasty without making you feel heavy after, and their noodles are on the firm side and quite thin, which are signatures of Hakata ramen.
I recommend ordering the noodles "barikata" (extra firm) because it's how many locals prefer it. You also can't go wrong with a plate of bite-sized, Hakata-style gyoza. A great choice for local ramen that’s open until the early AM.
Nagamasa
One of the best things to do when traveling Japan is going to a local izakaya to try authentic local dishes. Nagamasa is a highly rated one near Hakata Station.
Here, you can order local some of the best local dishes like motsunabe (pork offal hotpot), gomasaba (fresh mackerel sashimi in sesame sauce), yari-ika (fresh squid sashimi), basashi (horse sashimi from neighboring Kumamoto Prefecture), and a lot more.
Nagamasa, like most izakaya, has a lively atmosphere. Service is great and the food is absolutely delicious.
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Yukuhashi: Cherry Blossoms
I lived in one of Fukuoka's secret cherry blossom spots.
One of the most unknown and overlooked cherry blossom spots in Fukuoka is along the Imagawa River in Yukuhashi city.
Full disclosure: I lived right next to it for five years. I don't think I'm being biased however as friends would want to travel from all over the prefecture to have picnics here.
How to get there
Yukuhashi Station is about a 30 minute train ride (15 minutes on the Sonic Express) south from Kokura Station, and an hour ride on the Sonic Express train from Hakata Station. It's a small seaside city on the island's east coast with around 70,000 residents.
The main river, the Imagawa, is about a 15 minute walk from Yukuhashi station. Lining both sides are cherry blossom trees and under them, a walkway and space to sit down.
This is the go-to spot for locals to have BBQ's and picnics while the flowers are out, yet it doesn't get packed like the more well known "hanami" cherry blossom locations in Fukuoka.
For more about Yukuhashi, you can check out their tourism site.
I've also turned some of the photos that I've taken here into cherry blossom wallpapers for phones here.
If you didn't get your fill picnicking under these trees, there are some good food spots that I'd recommend:
Marushin
My personal favorite ramen shop in Yukuhashi and one of my favorites in all of Fukuoka. It may not be the most well known in the city, that award easily goes to the now international Kanada-ya, but it has a perfectly balanced and tasty tonkotsu pork broth that's not too heavy nor too light. Try their "Akamaru" which has a little bit of spiciness to it. Each bowl is full of toppings and all in all amazing. And guess what, they're open late!
Ishokuya Sai
A couple blocks west from Yukuhashi station is Ishokuya Sai, an izakaya popular for families and offices having small parties. They have a variety of Japanese and even western dishes, but check out their motsu nabe hot pot in the winter, wagyu yakiniku and lunch sets. The staff is also very friendly.
* This place has closed.
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Hakone
One of the most famous onsen hot spring resort areas in Japan, Hakone makes for a nice weekend trip right outside of Tokyo.
Hakone Shrine
Hakone is one of the most famous areas for onsen hot springs and ryokans
It’s been a popular vacation getaway for Japanese for hundreds of years, and was considered a nice honeymoon destination
It is a former checkpoint to get into Edo (old Tokyo)
[Updated 2019]
The most well known onsen hot spring town near Tokyo is Hakone, a mountain resort area just over an hour outside of the city. Its relaxing environment is complimented by clear views of Mt Fuji.
Mt Fuji, seen from Motohakone.
HOW TO GET THERE
The easiest way to get to Hakone is via the Odakyu Romance Car express train, a 1 hour 15 minute ride from Shinjuku station.
Once arriving at Hakone-Yumoto station, the last stop, there are a couple of ways to get around, depending on where your ryokan is. There are buses across the station as well as the Hakone Tozan train, a 2-car train that goes up and down the mountain between Hakone-Yumoto and Gora stations.
The onsen hot springs and ryokans are spread out all over the mountain. Because most vacationers go to mainly relax at the ryokan where food is provided, restaurants and convenience stores are sparse in a lot of areas.
WHERE TO STAY
Here are a couple of places that I’ve stayed at and recommend:
Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara - A modern ryokan with a private onsen by one of Japan’s most famous chains
Hotel de Yama - A Western-style hotel right on the Lake Ashi waterfront in Motohakone
The main sightseeing happens between Motohakone at Lake Ashi and Gora station, where the Hakone Tozan train ends and the Hakone Tozan cable car starts. The cable car ends at Souzan station, where it connects to the Hakone Ropeway that goes down to Lake Ashi.
You can do your sightseeing going either way, from Lake Ashi to Gora or vice versa. I’ve done both. One of the ropeway stations is a popular stop: Owakudani.
ŌWAKUDANI
Ōwakudani is a geologically active area, with sulfur continuously rising out of the mountain. The name literally means “Great boiling valley” in Japanese.
This area is famous for its black eggs which are created by boiling them in the bubbling mineral-rich waters. It may look odd, but definitely try one, it's good! The belief is that eating one of these eggs adds 7 years to your life - so it’s not a healthy Japanese diet guys, it’s these eggs!
I also tried wasabi ice cream from a shop there which had a tiny kick to it. Not a must have but fun to try something different.
Eggs are boiled in these mineral-rich waters.
The final result: Black eggs ready to eat. They give you salt to dip it in.
The other end of the ropeway is Lake Ashi. At the ropeway station there, there’s a boat resembling a pirate ship that connects to the Motohakone area.
MOTOHAKONE
Afternoon walk around Motohakone
Motohakone is a lakeside town with Japanese gift shops, swan-shaped paddle boats to rent and head out on the lake, and a bunch of coffee shops. It’s also known for being one of the endpoints of the Hakone Ekiden, a collegiate marathon that many Japanese watch during New Year’s.
Historically, this area is significant because it had the Hakone Sekisho Checkpoint, a former entrance point to Edo, or old Tokyo.
The most popular sight in the area is Hakone Shrine. It’s lakeside torii gate (pictured at top) is amongst the must-have Japan photos, and tourists line up in order to get a shot of themselves here. It is extremely photogenic, but I’d recommend getting there by 8:30AM in order to avoid the crowd and have a moment to enjoy being there - the Lake Ashi sight with the water lapping at the torii is truly relaxing.
Hakone Shrine’s photogenic torii gate at Lake Ashi
HAKONE OPEN-AIR MUSEUM
Symphonic Sculpture by Gabriel Loire at the Hakone Open-Air Museum
Besides hot springs and nature, Hakone surprisingly has several museums. The most popular and photogenic is the Hakone Open-Air Museum, an open park-like area with various sculptures and installations to explore.
Some of the popular, photogenic installations are the Symphonic Sculpture, Curved-Space Diamond Structure, Woods of Net and the Picasso Pavilion. I’ve been here once and went through it pretty quickly (1 hour) due to being pressed for time, but it’s actually a pretty big area and worth exploring a little bit.
HAKONE TOWN
Hakone Town, outside of Hakone-Yumoto station
Hakone town is the area right outside of Hakone-Yumoto station, the entrance/exit point to Hakone if you catch the Odakyu Romancecar. There's a bunch of shops with traditional Japanese foods and snacks, both to eat on the spot or to take home, which is why exploring this area might be best as a last stop. One shop even had an outdoor fire with free pieces of fish where you could grill yourself to try.
While eating at the ryokan probably provided good enough meals, the two places I recommended do for sure, there are a couple other spots that I’d say should be on the do not miss list. These will round out a trip to Hakone very nicely:
Yubadon Naokichi
Yuba is the top layers of tofu that form as its being made, and tofu is one of the foods Hakone is known for. Yubadon Naokichi specializes in yuba over rice, “yuba-don”, and is well known for it. They have lunch sets featuring tofu served in various ways, but go with the standard yuba-don set. You probably have never had tofu this way and it’s delicious.
Because it's well known and right in Hakone Town, this place can get quite crowded. Go early if you can - it opens at 11AM.
TOMOEI
Perhaps the best unagi I’ve ever eaten, top 2 at least! Unagi Tomoei is ranked as a “popular spot” on Retty, one of Japan’s top review sites, and it’s well deserved. The unagi here is amazing - flavorful, fluffy and grilled to perfection. They use sake quality spring water to prep, and you enjoy it on solid wooden tables. The “jo-unagi” (bigger size) set, including soup and pickles will start at 4,600 JPY after a 1+ hour wait, but it’ll be so worth it, trust me.
Unagi Tomoei is at the edge of the Hakone area and can be accessed by catching Hakone Tozan train from Hakone-Yumoto to Kazamatsuri station.
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Mojiko
A little Europe-inspired town at the northern tip of Kyushu.
· Mojiko is a retro area and popular destination in the Kitakyushu area of Fukuoka Prefecture
· It used to be an international trade port in the late 1800s
· Being at the tip of Kyushu island, there is a view of the main Honshu island right across the channel
Near the northern-most tip of Kyushu, in Fukuoka prefecture, is Mojiko. It overlooks the channel between Kyushu and Honshu islands, and has a clear view of Shimonoseki city. What makes the area unique is that it has a European influence, with red brick buildings amongst others.
Mojiko, with European-inspired buildings (seen towards the left).
The Kanmonkyo Bridge connecting Kyushu and Honshu.
Shimonoseki city seen from Mojiko.
The dock area is where some locals fish, and you can catch the sunset from there. There's a couple places nearby worth checking out for dinner.
Kawarasoba Takase
This is from a chain that originated across in Yamaguchi prefecture. It's soba cooked on a traditional Japanese roof tile, topped with shredded egg, beef, nori, lemon and spicy daikon radish. We split one tile between two people, and it was decently filling with some local Mojiko Retro Beer, which they serve.
Bear Fruits
A small cafe right off from the main shopping area. They're most known for their super yaki curry, a curry perfectly oven-baked, full of cheese. Bear Fruits is pretty known to Japanese visitors, so don't be surprised if you have to wait for a little while.
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Mt Aso in Kumamoto
A day trip to relax at a power spot.
A day trip to Kumamoto's power spot. Mt Aso is quite a spiritual place - beautiful green for as far as the eye can see and a huge blue sky above. There aren't too many places in Japan where you can experience both in the same amount of vastness without mountains or buildings in the way.
I visited Daikanbo, Mt Aso in 2013, before the earthquakes ripped through Kumamoto prefecture. It takes a while to get to as it's only accessible by car, but an easy day trip from Fukuoka city. It was in the middle of Japan's humid summer, but after walking up to the lookout area, I was greeted by none other than a crisp, cool breeze. It's a place where you can sit down alone with your thoughts and just be at peace.
In the area, there's a market with a variety of food items. There was a grill going on outside at the time I went, and I tried their horse meat skewers which were tasty. One of the foods Kumamoto is known for in Japan is their variety of horse meant. Being an American, it took me a little bit of getting used to, but I've come to realize that it actually is quite good meat. Both cooked and raw horse is eaten here, and it's a minor part of the general Japanese diet as well.
Nearby is a freshwater spring, Ikeyama Suigen. It's a freshwater spring, one of Japan's top 100, and is used for water in some of the major bottled drinks in the country.
The water was some of the clearest water I've ever seen. Flowing out from here, there is also a fountain area that you can fill up your bottle for free. Delicious, really. Stop by here when you're on your way back to the city.
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Kagoshima
Delicious kurobuta pork at its capital in south Kyushu.
If kurobuta katsu and active volcanoes sounds like a cool trip, Kagoshima will satisfy. CNN even had it listed as one of the top 5 most overlooked cities in Asia. It's at the southern-most tip of Kyushu in southern Japan, however, so it's unfortunately missed by most tourists.
Kagoshima was the first trip that I took after moving to Japan in 2009 after hearing people recommend it. I left Kagoshima putting it up there on my list favorite places in Japan. I made sure I went again for a second time in 2013. It's a great place to check out if you're looking for a tad bit of a warmer getaway to relax in "mainland Japan."
A subway sits in the waters between Kagoshima city and Sakurajima.
Sakurajima is (well, was) an island with the active volcano. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get a good shot of it, but it's easily visible from the coast of Kagoshima city. You can see ash spewing out at the top.
To get to the volcano island, you head over by a 15-minute ferry that you catch from the Sakurajima ferry Kagoshima Port. There are buses at the port that will take you around the island. If you're not headed someplace like one of the numerous onsen on there, you can catch a bus like us that stops at some scenic spots.
Shouting statue, commemorating an all-night concert by Tsuyoshi Nagabuchi. There is a bus stop nearby.
Nearby the ferry port on the Kagoshima city side is Kagoshima Aquarium. It's a pretty nice aquarium, with dolphins being a main focus. There's an indoor dolphin show as well as a dolphin viewing in what seems to be a converted canal.
Dolphins in the canal.
If you know a little bit of Japanese history, you'll probably know about Saigo Takamori. He's one of the most famous samurai, and was the inspiration to Tom Cruise's "The Last Samurai" film.
A trip to Kagoshima wouldn't be complete if it weren't for food. If you're a pork or tonkatsu lover, Kagoshima is the city best known in Japan for kurobuta pork. That means, kurobuta katsu, flavorful Kagoshima-style tonkotsu ramen, kurobuta shabu shabu... YUM.
Kurokatsu-tei
Big statement: This is my favorite katsu that I've had in Japan. I've been here twice, to two different locations, and I can say that I've never had such perfectly breaded and fried, melt-in-your-mouth tonkatsu like I've had here. My family feels the same way. And that's no easy statement to make, there are so many good katsu spots in Japan. Even if you have to wait a while to get a seat, stick it out.
Shirokuma
Kagoshima can be a little warmer than most places in Japan, so if you're looking for some shave ice, Shirokuma would be the place to go. It's probably the most famous dessert spots in the city, and is known throughout the country. While they do serve other foods, their assorted fruits in a fluffy bowl of snow is their most popular.
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Beppu: An Onsen City
A short getaway to Kyushu's famous onsen city.
Any fan of onsen hot springs in Japan knows about Beppu. It's a small city that sits along Kyushu's east coast in Oita prefecture, near the border of Fukuoka. You'll know you've arrived when you start seeing steam rising from buildings and smelling sulfur in the air.
Beppu isn't fancy or luxurious, nor is it a city that's built like a resort area. It's meant to have the onsen be the central focus, a time to get away. Some friends and I made a few trips here while I was living in Yukuhashi, Fukuoka, to do just that.
There are places to visit in the city, too. The most famous is the 7 "Hells" - a couple of areas with different types of waters bubbling up to create a range of environments, most of which look like another world. While they're good for a quick look, there's no need to have it take up a chunk of your schedule.
Umijikoku (Sea Hell)
Chinoikejikoku (Blood Hell)
To get above the city, go to the Beppu Ropeway for a gondola ride up Mount Tsurumi.
The neighboring area also has an African safari where you have the opportunity to feed roaming animals from the inside of a caged bus. Giraffes, kangaroos and lions, along with a tiger cub petting room makes it a fun experience for all ages. Make sure to keep your hands in the cage around the lions - no Simba's around here!
Businesses in the area tend to have a little more English-capable staff compared to other cities in Kyushu due to an international university nearby. While most meals will likely be in the ryokan that you're staying at, here's one place you can check out:
Rokusei
If you could use a break from the Japanese washoku meals at the ryokans, check out Korean-style reimen here. It's a really small, hole-in-the-wall shop, but these cold noodles of their's is refreshing in the summer.
Japan’s fall colors are absolutely beautiful, and Kyoto is one of the best places to go for them.