Hirosaki
A unique city in Aomori prefecture, Hirosaki is known for its apples and western architecture.
Hirosaki specifically is the area in Aomori famous for apples
There are many western styled buildings in the city that date back to the Meiji era
I traveled up to Aomori prefecture in February 2021. Amongst the stops on the 3-night trip was Hirosaki.
How to get there
We took the Ou Line limited express train from Aomori Station. We only spent a day in the city and stayed at Hoshino Resorts KAI Tsugaru, which is also located along the same train line.
About Hirosaki
Hirosaki is a small city of less than 170,000 people, and is to the mid-east part of Aomoro prefecture. It’s centered around Hirosaki Station and Hirosaki Castle, and while that central area is somewhat walkable if you really wanted to, things are a bit far apart.
There are a lot of interesting buildings that date back to the Meiji era, and these are often the main sights to see. One of Japan’s notable Starbucks is in one of these buildings here as well.
Hirosaki is most known for its apples, and has used the slogan "Apple Colored Town Hirosaki". It really is as it accounts for 20% of Japan’s apple production. A lot of the orchards can be seen as you catch the Ou Line train.
Where we went
It’s pretty convenient to see the main sights in the city. There’s a Dotemachi Loop Bus that starts at Hirosaki Station and goes in a loop that includes Hirosaki Castle.
We rode this to the city hall stop, which is right in front of the castle grounds. The bus comes frequently and only costs 100 yen.
Our first stop was to have lunch at the Taishō Roman Tea Room, which is on the Former Fujita Family Villa grounds. I’ll showcase more about this at the bottom.
We then explored the Hirosaki Castle grounds. The moats were frozen and grounds covered in snow - which was nice - but they say that the best time to visit is spring when all of the cherry blossoms are out.
You can see some of our time in Hirosaki as well as Aomori city and the ryokan resort we stayed at in this video:
After the castle, we walked around the surrounding area and checked out some of the city’s notable western buildings.
Many of them were built in the Meiji era, and they help add a unique character to the city.
Visually speaking, I found Hirosaki to be more interesting than Aomori and Hachinohe cities in the prefecture, and I’m glad that I could stop by.
Hirosaki Former 59th Bank
Former Too Gijuku Missionary Residence
Former Fujita Family Villa
Where we ate
Taisho Roman Tea Room
This is a place that embodies Hirosaki.
In the veranda within a Meiji-era western home, the Former Fujita Family Villa, this tea house specializes in foods revolving around the city’s specialty - apples.
In the soft, early afternoon sun, we enjoyed a meal of apple curry followed by some tea and apple pie. Nice atmosphere and good food.
Starbucks Hirosaki Koen-mae
This Starbucks location, Hirosaki Koen Mae, is one of the notable ones in Japan due to the building it’s in and how it’s designed to naturally fit into the environment.
The building used to be the official residence for the commander of the Japanese 8th division, then it became the mayor’s residence before being registered as one of Japan's Tangible Cultural Assets.
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Nakameguro, Tokyo: Starbucks Reserve Roastery
A premium Starbucks experience with a unique, Japanese twist at their second largest location in the world.
The second largest Starbucks in the world as of 2020, Tokyo’s Starbucks Reserve Roastery is an impressive coffee experience and is situated in the hip, artsy neighborhood of Nakameguro.
How to get there
Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo is a several minute walk from Nakameguro Station, which is accessible via the Tōyoko and Hibiya lines. It’s located along the Meguro riverside, one of the main destinations in the area.
Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo was the 5th of its kind, and the opening was a huge event.
It’s been a popular destination for locals and tourists alike, so much so that it’s typical to have to go to the building next door in order to pull a number for a time slot. They use a system called AirWAIT, and you’ll be able to check how many people are in front of you in real-time.
Because tourism is almost non-existent in this 2020 summer, I seized the opportunity and checked it out.
Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo was formerly the biggest Starbucks in the world, edging out Starbucks Reserve Roastery Shanghai (which I also visited) in 2019 before being dethroned later that year by Chicago’s. It is 4 stories and 32,000 sq. ft. (2,973 sq. meters) big.
It’s centered around a 56-foot (17 meter) high copper cask, decorated with 2,100 copper cherry blossom flowers and leaves, handcrafted by Japanese artisans.
This perfectly aligns not only with Japan, but also with the neighborhood since the Meguro river right next to it is known for its cherry blossoms. I personally consider it to be one of Tokyo’s top 5 photogenic cherry blossom spots.
The attention to detail at this location is fantastic, and something very Japanese.
The shop was designed by top Japanese architect Kuma Kengo, who has designed other Starbucks locations like the one in Dazaifu, Fukuoka, as well as the Tokyo Olympic Stadium and many other buildings.
The ceiling brings forth images of Japanese wood crafts, and was indeed inspired by origami. Much of the wood in the shop, from counters to tables to walls, are made of Japanese cyprus.
Even the staff demonstrated the Japanese “omotenashi” hospitality mixed with a friendly touch. There were no shortage of smiles (despite masks) and even when I felt my camera may be distracting, they’d give a thumbs up, invite me to take closer shots, and even offered to start brewing coffee for a better shot.
The first floor
The first floor focuses on coffee, baked goods and the gift shop.
Taking up the majority of the floor are the main coffee bar and the bean roasting facilities. The first floor’s roaster is at the base of the copper cask, flanked by the main bar which serves an enormous range of coffees.
From 5 different brew methods comes coffees like whiskey barrel-aged cold brew, and concoctions with names such as Melrose-Tokyo, Shakerato-bianco and Pepper nitro with with a Jerky-twist.
Princi, a bakery from Milano, has one of their three Tokyo locations here. From artisan sandwiches to tarts to sourdough bread, there’s likely something that will be appealing.
After trying their mango baguette and Princi loaf, I was sold! Basically they’re my new favorite bakery. We even went to their Daikanyama location the next week to buy more.
The gift shop area has everything coffee and Starbucks related, including clothing and a collaboration castella cake with famous, nearby Japanese bakery Fukusaya [J].
The shop was actually smaller than I expected, especially after seeing the size of Shanghai’s location and the fact that Japanese love buying souvenirs. In any case, there’s likely something you’ll at least consider purchasing.
The second floor
The stairs to the right of Princi leads up to the second floor, which is Starbucks’ tea-focused floor - TEAVANA.
There’s a main counter, a seating area, a separate tea section that brings you closer to the different types of tea, and a wall for tea items available for purchase.
The third floor
The third floor was where we decided to take a seat. It’s divided into a few sections - a second roasting facility, an outdoor seating area and the ARRIVIAMO Bar.
The bar is where coffee craft and mixology comes together, and a handful of skilled bartenders create and serve a range of coffee-inspired cocktails and mocktails.
We ordered two drinks: A Silver Needle Highball and a Starbucks Reserve Espresso Martini.
The Silver Needle Highball was made with white tea and was officially described as having a gentle scent, light floral taste and silky texture. It was very subtle and smooth, the most refined highball I’ve ever had.
The Starbucks Reserve Espresso Martini was made with single origin Rwanda Abakundajawa coffee (officially described as having a medium roast and body, with hints of tangerine zest, graham crackers, and nougat, and being smooth and sweet), single malt vodka, vanilla syrup and bean to bar chocolate. After debating the steep ¥2,000 price, I went for it and have zero regrets. It was ridiculously good.
The fourth floor
The top floor is called AMU Inspiration Lounge, and is mainly a seating area. There’s both an indoor area and outdoor deck space.
Like the third floor deck, it looks out to a view of the Meguro river, which will be beautifully covered in pinkish-white cherry blossoms during the spring.
What was cool about our visit, and it was completely coincidental, was that it was on the 24th anniversary of Starbucks’ opening their first shop in Japan.
The first shop was in Ginza, Tokyo, and the first order was a double tall latte.
Everything here was amazing and once again, I found myself really impressed by Starbucks Reserve Roastery.
It’s a culmination of a global coffee chain focusing on the craft and details, and adding their own artistic twist to it in order to create a premium experience for coffee fans.
Worth a visit.
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Shanghai, China: Starbucks Reserve Roastery
A premier Starbucks experience at their third largest location in the world.
The third largest Starbucks in the world as of 2020 (second largest at the time of this visit), Shanghai’s Starbucks Reserve Roastery is an impressive coffee playground. It represents everything Starbucks is about and fits it into one location.
How to get there
Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery is located on West Nanjing Road in a nice area full of fashion and high end shops from Chanel and Dior to Nike Kicks Lab and Levi’s. It’s right across the street diagonally from exit 11 at West Nanjing Road metro station (南京西路) on Line 13.
Starbucks has its fair share of critics, but it’s always around us no matter where we live. So when I had planned to be in Shanghai, I decided I had to check this location out.
Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery is formerly the biggest Starbucks in the world before Tokyo’s Nakameguro location dethroned it in 2019. It is 2 open stories and 30,000 sq. ft. (2,787 sq. meters) big.
The first floor
At the center of the first floor is the bean roasting facilities, packaging station, and large Chinese-themed bronze cask that houses their nitrogen-infused tea drinks.
The gift shop area takes up a significant portion of the floor and is full of multiple variations of everything coffee-related as well as clothing and more.
There are 2 coffee bars on this level with one featuring chocolates. There’s also a bakery counter and deli.
The second floor
The stairs overlooking the packaging area will lead you to the second floor, with the first area being Starbucks’s tribute to tea - TEAVANA. It’s just as impressive as their coffee bars, rightfully so as it is in China.
Along with tea, the second floor has a cold brew coffee area, a pastries and bakery counter, another brew station and coffee bar as well as a roaster.
There’s a decent amount of seats on the second floor for people to sit and enjoy their drinks, sipping to the occasional sound of coffee beans being shot through the pipes above.
The menu
As expected, the Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery’s menu is quite extensive. Different coffees, teas, cakes, pies, pastries, chocolates and everything in between.
We stuck with mixed drinks for the evening.
Amongst the mixed coffee drinks were the Emerald City Mule (Cold brew, ginger ale, burnt cinnamon syrup and lemon, finished with an apple slice) and the exclusive Shanghai Lane Romance (Cold brew, plum-flavored syrup and Chinese yellow rice wine and preserved plums infused with wine and coffee).
Tea mixed drinks had selections like Citrus Mint Mojito (citrus jasmine tea muddled and shaken with mint, Demerara sugar and lime, and tonic and sparkling water along with rum) and the exclusive Youthberry Prosecco (chilled Youthberry tea layered with bubbly prosecco, and vermillion sugar cubes).
These were just a few of the selections.
Everything here looked really good and it would be great to sit at the counter and learn about coffee from one of the baristas.
This is one of the prime showcases to how a global coffee chain still focuses on the craft while steering towards the future. Impressive and worth the visit.
Visiting the Furano area of Hokkaido in the summer, a popular tourist destination for Japanese