Travel Log Barrett Ishida Travel Log Barrett Ishida

Suzhou, China

Dubbed the “Venice of the East,” Suzhou’s picturesque canals and alleys are a street photography dream.

Tonggui Bridge in Shantang Jie, Suzhou

Tonggui Bridge in Shantang Jie, Suzhou

  • Suzhou is known for its canals, bridges and gardens, and has been dubbed the “Venice of the East”

  • Founded in 514 BC, it has over 2,500 years of history and is one of the fastest growing cities in the world

  • The collection of gardens in the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site


Suzhou was a one-day trip while traveling to Shanghai and honestly, I wish I had more time.

My sister’s husband’s family is originally from this area so I put it on the itinerary and I’m really glad I did. For anyone into street photography, it’s quite a dream.

Things to keep in mind

  • The internet that you know and rely on doesn’t exist - get a VPN to access any Google or Facebook related site amongst many others you don’t realize you need. We used Baidu Maps [CN] and Alibaba’s AutoNavi Maps [CN].

  • There’s not much English. Most staff can’t speak English so be prepared to have communication difficulties.

  • Mobile payments via WeChat or Alipay are the norm. Because a Chinese bank account is required, tourists can usually pay with cash or Union Pay credit card, but those transactions are seen as a hassle.

How to get there

Suzhou is about a 30-minute ride on the country’s high-speed train from Shanghai Railway Station [MAP].

You supposedly can buy tickets online here, but we had trouble and had to buy them at the station’s ticket office. Do know that the ticket office is actually in a building across the street, diagonally to the southeast [MAP].

Once you arrive at Suzhou station, you can get a one-day transportation pass at the ticket hut at the metro’s ticket gate. Shanghai’s SPTC card doesn’t work here.

Metro lines 2 & 4 go to most of the main destinations, but keep in mind that Line 4 is NOT shown on Google Maps.

Beisi Ta (The North Pagoda)

Beisi Ta (The North Pagoda)

Beisi Ta (The North Pagoda)

The first area we explored was the southeast side of Suzhou station. We caught Metro Line 4 to Beisi Ta station (北寺塔) [MAP] [Alibaba Map], which was the main hub.

This station puts you within walking distance from popular spots like The North Pagoda, Humble Administrator Garden, Suzhou Museum, Lion Grove Garden and more.

We had the unfortunate luck of traveling here during a Chinese national holiday, so we weren’t able to get into the most popular sights. They were booked for days and required prior reservations via WeChat. It does seem that they prioritize Chinese citizens over tourists.

After being bummed for a little, we decided to walk around and we came across some other amazing sights.

Couple’s Retreat Garden

Couple’s Retreat Garden in Suzhou

The Couple’s Retreat Garden, together with the other Suzhou gardens, are considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

From The Humble Administrator’s Garden area, it’s a short walk to the southeast. It has canals on three of its sides and is build around a library annex and pond area. It’s a smaller but intimate garden that isn’t as overcrowded as some of the other more popular ones.

MAP
Alibaba Map

Making our way back to Beisi Ta metro station, we walked along the canal south of the Couple’s Retreat Garden, labeled Daxinqiao Alley.

Here’s some of the sights and local life that we saw.

From Belsi Ta metro station, we went back to Suzhou station and transferred to Metro Line 2 to Shantang Jie (山塘街) metro station.

Shangang area

The Shantang area is centered around the Tonggui Bridge (pictured at the top of this page), and features small streets and a bunch of memorial bridges arching over the canals below.

Along the main pedestrian streets are souvenir shops, restaurants as well as food cards that come out in the evening offering local bites to eat.

If you really want to see a more non-touristy side to the area, I recommend taking a stroll down the alleys surrounding the main area.

Here’s some of the sights we saw in those alleys.

Before we head back to Shantang Jie station, we walked through Beihao Long street, one of the main shopping streets for tourists.

Beihao Long street in the evening

Beihao Long street in the evening

We took a look at the market at Shangtang Jie metro station before going back to Suzhou station and heading back to Shanghai.

Market at Shantang Jie station

Market at Shantang Jie station

Our one day adventure exploring Suzhou was amazing, even though we weren’t able to get into the main gardens.

Here’s to hoping for a chance to be back again.


Qin

Great boba (tapioca) drinks here. Near the main Shantang area, it’s perfect for a refreshment while exploring.

I recommend any tea-based drink with the potato balls. It’s more of a mochi-like consistency than tapioca.

MAP
Alibaba Map


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Shanghai, China: Starbucks Reserve Roastery

A premier Starbucks experience at their third largest location in the world.

Starbucks Reserve Roastery Shanghai

The third largest Starbucks in the world as of 2020 (second largest at the time of this visit), Shanghai’s Starbucks Reserve Roastery is an impressive coffee playground. It represents everything Starbucks is about and fits it into one location.

How to get there

Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery is located on West Nanjing Road in a nice area full of fashion and high end shops from Chanel and Dior to Nike Kicks Lab and Levi’s. It’s right across the street diagonally from exit 11 at West Nanjing Road metro station (南京西路) on Line 13.

MAP
Alibaba Map

Package station and first floor of Starbucks Reserve Roastery Shanghai

Package station and first floor of Starbucks Reserve Roastery Shanghai

Starbucks has its fair share of critics, but it’s always around us no matter where we live. So when I had planned to be in Shanghai, I decided I had to check this location out.

Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery is formerly the biggest Starbucks in the world before Tokyo’s Nakameguro location dethroned it in 2019. It is 2 open stories and 30,000 sq. ft. (2,787 sq. meters) big.

Brew station and coffee bar on the first floor of Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

Brew station and coffee bar on the first floor of Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

The first floor

At the center of the first floor is the bean roasting facilities, packaging station, and large Chinese-themed bronze cask that houses their nitrogen-infused tea drinks.

The gift shop area takes up a significant portion of the floor and is full of multiple variations of everything coffee-related as well as clothing and more.

There are 2 coffee bars on this level with one featuring chocolates. There’s also a bakery counter and deli.

Chocolate counter at Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

Chocolate counter at Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

The second floor

The stairs overlooking the packaging area will lead you to the second floor, with the first area being Starbucks’s tribute to tea - TEAVANA. It’s just as impressive as their coffee bars, rightfully so as it is in China.

Along with tea, the second floor has a cold brew coffee area, a pastries and bakery counter, another brew station and coffee bar as well as a roaster.

There’s a decent amount of seats on the second floor for people to sit and enjoy their drinks, sipping to the occasional sound of coffee beans being shot through the pipes above.

Brew station and coffee bar on the second floor of Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

Brew station and coffee bar on the second floor of Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

The menu

As expected, the Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery’s menu is quite extensive. Different coffees, teas, cakes, pies, pastries, chocolates and everything in between.

We stuck with mixed drinks for the evening.

Amongst the mixed coffee drinks were the Emerald City Mule (Cold brew, ginger ale, burnt cinnamon syrup and lemon, finished with an apple slice) and the exclusive Shanghai Lane Romance (Cold brew, plum-flavored syrup and Chinese yellow rice wine and preserved plums infused with wine and coffee).

Tea mixed drinks had selections like Citrus Mint Mojito (citrus jasmine tea muddled and shaken with mint, Demerara sugar and lime, and tonic and sparkling water along with rum) and the exclusive Youthberry Prosecco (chilled Youthberry tea layered with bubbly prosecco, and vermillion sugar cubes).

These were just a few of the selections.

Everything here looked really good and it would be great to sit at the counter and learn about coffee from one of the baristas.

This is one of the prime showcases to how a global coffee chain still focuses on the craft while steering towards the future. Impressive and worth the visit.

Brew station and coffee bar on the first floor of Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

Brew station and coffee bar on the first floor of Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

Bakery counter on the second floor of Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

Some pastries and baked goods at Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

Some pastries and baked goods at Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

Starbucks Reserve Cold Brew Bar on the second floor of Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

Starbucks Reserve Cold Brew Bar on the second floor of Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

Different types of coffee beans on the second floor of Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

Different types of coffee beans on the second floor of Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

“Shanghai” wall made from coffee packages at the Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery

“Shanghai” wall made from coffee packages at the Starbucks Reserve Shanghai Roastery


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Shanghai, China

Traveling in Shanghai for a few days, an energetic city and one of China’s and Asia’s main hubs.

The Bund at night
  • Shanghai is China’s most populated urban area with 26.3 million in its municipal area (2019)

  • The name Shanghai means “Above the Sea” and the area has history dating back to 4000 BC

  • Shanghai’s population has nearly doubled since 2000 and it also has the world’s largest metro system


Shanghai has been one of the cities at the forefront of China’s rise, and I wanted to see it for myself.

I had visited Shanghai on a previous trip in 2010 to see the World Expo, but I didn’t have time to explore the city at all. On this trip, I had 3 full days to explore it as much as possible.

China though, as you probably know, is pretty different and there are some things to keep in mind if you’re planning a first visit.

Things to keep in mind

  • The internet that you know and rely on doesn’t exist - get a VPN to access any Google or Facebook related site amongst many others you don’t realize you need. We used Baidu Maps [CN] and Alibaba’s AutoNavi Maps [CN].

  • There’s not much English. Most staff can’t speak English so be prepared to have communication difficulties.

  • Mobile payments via WeChat or Alipay are the norm. Because a Chinese bank account is required, tourists can usually pay with cash or Union Pay credit card, but those transactions are seen as a hassle.

Where we stayed

Preferring English-capabale staff, we decided to stay at an international hotel. The Andaz Xintandi by Hyatt was nice, cheaper than what you’d pay for this type of hotel anywhere else, and it put us in a really nice area conveniently located between 2 subway lines - Line 1 & 10.

1 King Bed with Xintiandi View room at the Andaz Xintiandi

1 King Bed with Xintiandi View room at the Andaz Xintiandi

https://www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/china/andaz-xintiandi-shanghai/shaaz

Because we flew into Shanghai from Beijing on a domestic flight, we landed at Shanghai Honqiao Airport (SHA) instead of Pudong (PVG), which is more common for international flights. The easiest way to and from the hotel is by subway for both airports.

For Pudong, Longyan Road Station [MAP] is the transfer point to go to and from the airport on the super speedy MagLev. I recommend getting an SPTC metro card, a prepaid, refillable card for subways, MagLev, buses and more.

Xintandi

Quite a great neighborhood to stay in. Xintandi is a bit upscale - the name itself translates to “New world/Heaven.”

The streets were clean and lined with modern lit shops with malls, with recognizable names like Harry Winston, Tiffany & Co., BO Concept and more in the area. There are a few higher-end apartment complexes here, including one that is literally called “Rich Gate.”

The highlight is Shanghai New World, an upscale-feeling outdoor mall area full of shops and outdoor bars and eateries.

Shanghai New World outdoor mall in Xintiandi

With Xintandi as our base, here’s what we did on our full days in Shanghai.

Day 1

Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street

Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street on a crowded holiday

Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street on a crowded holiday

A major shopping area, the Nanjing Road Pedestrian Street is a wide road lined with malls and shops.

We visited here after eating soup dumplings at Jia Jia Tang Bao (info at bottom), just a short 15-minute walk east.

It was a Chinese holiday when we went, so I’m not sure how it compares to typical crowds, but the streets were packed to the point that Chinese military personnel had to direct traffic.

On a calmer day, it’s a good street to walk down if you’re heading to The Bund area.

Tianzifang

Evening at the Tianzifang shopping area

Evening at the Tianzifang shopping area

Built from renovated alleyways, Tianzifang is an outdoor mall area good for souvenir shopping, snacking on some light eats and grabbing a drink at divey bars.

It’s definitely geared to tourists, but it’s a neat environment to be in.

Starbucks Reserve Roastery

Formerly the largest Starbucks in the world before handing over the title to Tokyo’s, Starbucks Reserve Roastery Shanghai is huge. I knew if I was going all the way to Shanghai, I’d have to see it for myself.

Starbucks Reserve Roastery Shanghai is located just outside of the Nanjing West Road station in a nicer neighborhood. The location is a little off on Google Maps, so here’s the correct location: MAP

It’s a 2-floor, open-space that features everything from exclusive coffees to chocolates, teas at their TEAVANA area, a deli, patissier and coffee-included drinks at their bar, not to mention a huge array of tempting goods to choose from.

If there wasn’t so many foods to eat while on vacation, I could spend a full evening here.

Day 2

Shanghai Disneyland

Shanghai Disneyland

Most tourists visiting Shanghai will want to check out Shanghai Disneyland. At 963 acres, the park is one of Disney’s largest.

1-day tickets were about ¥575 CNY (about $82 USD), and we got them online at the Shanghai Disneyland website. We were able to get it by showing the tickets on the phone.

The most popular rides at the time we went were Soaring Over the Horizon (hang gliding experience) and TRON Lightcycle Power Run (rollercoaster). The food wasn’t good, so try to sneak something in if you can!

TRON Lightcycle Power Run rollercoaster at Shanghai Disneyland

TRON Lightcycle Power Run rollercoaster at Shanghai Disneyland

Day 3

Suzhou

On the second full day staying in Shanghai, we caught the train and visited nearby Suzhou.

It’s amazing to say the lest, and a must for anyone who can fit it into their itinerary. Known for its gardens and canals, it’s been called the “Venice of the East” and the name is fitting.

This was definitely one of the highlights for me during my stay here and I wish I had more time.

Day 4

Soho Fuxing Square

Having fun shooting in the futuristic elevator hallway at the SOHO Fuxing Square [INSTAGRAM]

Having fun shooting in the futuristic elevator hallway at the SOHO Fuxing Square [INSTAGRAM]

The SOHO named buildings in China seem to be fantastic for anyone into modern design. After visiting Beijing’s Galaxy SOHO designed by Zaha Hadid and learning that this one was right down the street from our hotel in Xintiandi, I knew I had to check it out for myself.

SOHO Fuxing Square is a multi-use complex with shops, eateries and offices. After eating dim sum for lunch, we went to the building’s elevator hall where anyone looking for a cool photo can have some fun being transported to the future.

Yu Garden

Buildings around Yu Garden

Buildings around Yu Garden

Also known as Yuyuan Garden, the Yu Garden is one of the most popular and heavily visited cultural spots in Shanghai.

A short walk east from Yuyuan Garden subway station (metro line 10), the area is filled with breathtaking architecture, shops, as well as the 5-acre garden itself.

It was a bit crowded when we went, contrasting creator Pan Yuandan’s intentions of it being a peaceful garden for his father in his old age, but it was worth visiting. Not only is there a lot to see, we were able to be fully immersed in 1559 Ming Dynasty Shanghai.

Pond at the Yu Garden

Pond at the Yu Garden

The Bund

French Concession buildings around The Bund

French Concession buildings around The Bund

Our final stop was of course The Bund. No trip to Shanghai is complete without seeing its rapidly growing skyline, representative of how fast the city as a whole has been developing.

Shanghai’s skyline (pictured at the top of this page) is nothing short of amazing - its waterfront neon skyscrapers puts it right up there with Hong Kong’s.

The modern glow is contrasted with the French Concession buildings across on the westside of the Huangpu River (where we enjoyed the view from) providing a 360-degree breathtaking view.

Shanghai, as I thought, is a massive city on the modernization fast path, a bustling business hub, tourist hotspot and one of the key cities directing the direction of the world.

The most impressive thing wasn’t the modernization, it was the speed and scale that it’s happening.

Shanghai showed me that China isn’t coming, it’s already here.


Jia Jia Tang Bao

Arguably the most famous xiaolongbao restaurant in Shanghai and rightfully so. I first came across Jia Jia Tang Bao while watching Eat the World with Emeril Lagasse, so we made it our first lunch.

The soup dumplings are delicious - thin wraps and rich broth on the inside. We got two trays for two people and it was a good amount, costing only ¥138 CNY (about $20 USD). There was a wait - about 30 minutes at peak lunch time, but it’s worth it. Would love to go back for more.

MAP
Alibaba Map

 

zhUwUchuAncài

So delicious we had to go twice! This place (竹屋川菜) , which translates to “Bamboo House Sichuan Cuisine”, is great for anyone who likes Sichuan or spicier Chinese foods.

Everything we had was packed with flavor and the crowd was mainly locals - a good sign.

It’s conveniently located across the street from Andaz Xintiandi Shanghai, and prices are hard to beat. We were getting 3 dishes and beer - enough to get full for dinner - for $20-40 USD.

(Up the stairs above the convenience store) MAP
Alibaba Map

 

Henan La Mianguan

Sometimes it’s the hole-in-the-wall spots that are the best. This was one of those cases.

Henan la mianguan (河南拉面馆 (淡水路), which seems to roughly translate to Henan ramen museum, featured a variety of bowls with homemade noodles in a beef broth, topped with slices of beef and cilantro. This soup really hit the spot.

While everything was in Chinese, both locals and tourists alike were eating while we were there. The cost for a bowl was only about $3 USD.

MAP
Alibaba Map

 

Dahuchun

Fast food fried dumplings, good enough for Apple CEO Tim Cook to visit apparently, according to photos on the wall. Dahuchun was our first meal in Shanghai, a place that features something like deep fried xiaolongbao.

The wraps are bready, crispy and thick, and insides a refilled with juicy ground meats. The soup is simple with a taste that somewhat resembles curry.

The ordering area in the front was busy and tables were full, but because it’s somewhat of a fast food experience, we had no trouble getting a seat.

MAP
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Shanghai, China: World Expo

Checking out the World Expo 2010 in Shanghai, China.

World Expo 2010 in Shanghai, China - Barrettish

During the couple days that I spent in Shanghai in 2010, the majority of the time was at the World Expo. It was the reason why I traveled there when I did, but because of that, I didn't get to thoroughly explore the city as much as I'd like to.

Shanghai is a very busy, modern city that has a little bit of grunge to it. When looking at photos of the city from the 90's, it's almost unreal to see how much it's been developed. The enormous skyscrapers and neon lights are just a part of it. You can see it just from walking around the streets, like the digital displays at bus stops telling you bus location information in realtime. 

Skyscrapers in Shanghai

While I'm sure much has changed in both these cities since I've visited, Shanghai has a different feel from Beijing, which I went to a couple years earlier in 2008. Beijing had a more spread out feel, with sections that included ancient temples, old buildings and walled-off neighborhoods. You could sense that it was an old, historical city beginning to transform into a modern one. Shanghai on the other hand, had an instantly modern feel that would fall into the same category as Hong Kong or Tokyo.

Crowded subway

Crowded subway

Chinese flags in a subway station

Chinese flags in a subway station

SWFC building in Shanghai
Skyscraper in Shanghai

The World Expo was nothing short of amazing, and a big display of countries showing off their design and tech to the world. Many of the country's "booths" had a couple hours wait time, but I was was able to make it into a few, the highlights being Dubai's and Spain's. 

Spain's pavilion with digital displays showcasing its culture and history, along with a weird, gigantic baby inside.

Spain's pavilion with digital displays showcasing its culture and history, along with a weird, gigantic baby inside.

South Korean's World Expo pavilion.

South Korean's World Expo pavilion.

World flags at the World Expo in Shanghai

One of the moments that stick out to me was leaving the Expo. Everyone was lined up in a long line waiting for taxis. Keep in mind that the idea of personal space here is different from other countries, so everyone was body to body - with the woman behind me carrying her baby on her stomach pushing him into my back. Someone got impatient and jumped the line, running into the street to an open taxi. When that happened, it was chaos; a flood of people followed, running into the street to find any open cab, carrying kids in their arms and all.

Overall, I found that Shanghai took me a little more time getting used to than Beijing. Even though it had a more modern feel, it still was a bit less refined. It could've been just my experience. That being said, however, I did find it intriguing and I would want to visit again to see more of the actual city.


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