Izu: Tofuya Resort & Spa
Tofuya Resort & Spa Izu is a Japanese style ryokan with a history of 400 years. Spanning 29 acres, it’s an immersive, high end getaway that guests can escape to.
Alongside the Yoshina River in Izu, Shizuoka, is Tofuya, a Japanese style resort with a history that dates back 400 years. It’s often considered one of the top modern luxury ryokans in the Izu and Atami areas.
The resort now spans a vast area of about 29 acres, or 120,000 square meters. Because of this, it never feels crowded even if it’s fully booked. Despite covering such a big space, each part of the resort is clean and well maintained.
How to get there
The best way to get to the Izu Yoshina Onsen area, where the resort is located, is by car. Resort staff will greet you at the driveway and valet park your car for you.
If you’re traveling by train, the closest station is Shuzenji Station. From there, a taxi would be best.
Taishokan-Hosen building
The experience at Tofuya Resort & Spa Izu is almost like being immersed in an Edo Period Japanese town. The buildings are mixed but tend to be on the more “traditional” side, and there are many open spaces to walk in.
At check-in, the staff will let you choose a yukata of your choice. Unlike some other ryokans, there are multiple designs that range from simple to colorfully designed ones.
Kurashiki warehouse villa suites
Kurashiki villa suites illuminated at night
Lounge
Lounge
The lounge, located on the Taishokan-Hosen building’s first floor, spreads across a few rooms.
In the center near the entrance is a counter of snacks, soft drinks, beer and wine that’s included in your stay. Guests can take what they want, head over to a seat and relax.
Drink and snack area of the lounge
Room at the lounge
Room at the lounge
Hall area at the lounge
Rooms
The room we stayed in was a villa suite type that was near the Yoshina River. Located inside of a kurashiki style Japanese warehouse building, the room was 2 floors and featured 3 beds (1 in the main living area, 2 upstairs). It totaled about 72㎡ and is meant for 2-4 people.
There are outdoor spaces both on the first floor as well as a private onsen bath tub and balcony on the second floor.
For this room, prices will depend on the season but is like to start at around 40,000 JPY per person, including meals.
Toiletries such as toothbrushes, combs, razor etc. are provided, as well as free soft drinks, tea and capsule coffee.
Main area of the villa suite room
Sofa and TV area of the villa suite room
Bathroom and balcony in the villa suite room
Private onsen bath in the villa suite
The Hot Springs
There are multiple pubic onsen hot spring baths at Tofuya Resort & Spa. The two that I used were set alongside the Yoshina River.
One was fully outdoors, including the washing area, and had a more natural feel to it. The bath itself was big, providing a lot of personal space.
The other had a Japanese style to it and was open to the outdoors but enclosed with a roof.
These baths alternate between men and women each day, so guests can try out both of them during your stay.
Public outdoor onsen hot spring bath
Semi-outdoor onsen bath
Dining
Like most ryokan stays, Japanese kaiseki meals were included. Tofuya Resort & Spa’s meals are served in both a dining hall as well as the second floor of the Taishokan-Hosen building, depending on which meal type you choose. For breakfast and dinner, there are Japanese and Western meal options.
The Japanese-style dinner was amazing. We opted to get the upgraded version, and it included dishes such as a sushi and sashimi platter, kinmedai (a type of red snapper), Wagyu yakiniku and a lot more. It was incredibly filling and delicious.
We chose to go for the Western breakfast to experience eating in the Taishokan-Hosen building. While I don’t have experience eating the Japanese breakfast here, I think that’d be the better option for most.
The main attraction of the Western breakfast is that it features bread from their popular bakery, however we didn’t feel that it was that good.
Overall, our stay at Tofuya Resort & Spa Izu was great. It’s a real gem on the Izu peninsula and a resort that I’d recommend to anybody looking to getaway and relax in a luxurious Japanese environment.
Outside of the lobby area
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Nagato Yumoto Onsen: Hoshino Resorts KAI Nagato
Deep in the mountains of Yamaguchi Prefecture, Hoshino Resorts KAI Nagato is a luxury onsen resort based on accommodations for 17th century feudal lords.
Deep in the mountains of Yamaguchi Prefecture is the Nagato Yumoto Onsen area. With a river running through the middle, the Hoshino Resorts KAI Nagato, a luxury onsen resort, sits right alongside it.
Hoshino Resorts is one of the most well known and sought after luxury hot spring and resort ryokan chains in Japan.
If you’ve looked around at my Japan travels on my blog or watched some of my videos on YouTube, you may know that I’m a fan of their KAI brand. I’ve been fortunate to have stayed at some of their resorts such as:
While on a trip around Fukuoka in late spring of 2022, we decided to cross into Yamaguchi and head into the mountains for a stay at their KAI Nagato location.
How to get there
The best way to get to the Nagato Yumoto Onsen area is by car.
That being said, we took the bus/train. Our route wasn’t a typical one, but there’s a train from Asa Station, which is also a stop for some Shinkansen, to Nagato-Yumoto Station.
The lobby
Nagato Yumoto Onsen is a hot spring town that dates back several hundred years, and was a destination for daimyo.
Becoming a bit dated, the area went through a rebranding and made some changes in the spring of 2020. Amongst those changes was the brand new opening of Hoshino Resort KAI Nagato.
Like other KAI locations, KAI Nagato focuses on the local area and its culture. The concept for this location is draws upon the old tea houses and accommodations that hosted feudal lords in the 17th century.
Travel Library
Outside of the Travel Library
Activities
The main activity that many guests take part in is ink making and calligraphy.
It is said that for over 800 years, artisans in the region have been crafting inkstones out of a local stone called Akamaga, which produces high quality ink.
Calligraphy room
Brushes for calligraphy
Carving tools in the calligraphy room
Calligraphy activity set
Rooms
We stayed in the Japanese-style Room TA3, a room that measures 48㎡ big with 2 beds in the main space and a bathroom with shower (you probably won’t need it because of the onsen).
The window had sliding doors that opened to a view of the river.
Main area of the room
Main area of the room
Bathroom
The Hot Spring
The onsen hot spring baths at Hoshino Resorts KAI Nagato are both indoors and outdoors.
Public onsen bath
The water that flows through Japanese onsen hot springs vary and depend on where the water is coming from. Each has a slightly different combination of minerals carrying different benefits to the skin and body.
Hoshino Resorts KAI Nagato’s onsen water is from the Nagato Yumoto hot spring and is alkaline and pretty clear in color. It’s said that the benefits include helping with nerve pain, muscle soreness, joint/arthritis pain, and general fatigue.
The water is really silky and smooth, and it made my skin feel really nice after. The indoor bath was not as hot, more lukewarm, but the silkiness feeling was the highest.
Dining
Like most ryokan stays, Japanese kaiseki meals are included. Hoshino Resorts KAI Nagato’s meals are served in a dining hall that has separated rooms.
Like every other Hoshino Resorts KAI resort, this location had great meals.
Yamaguchi prefecture is known for foods like yuzukichi citrus and fugu (blowfish) and both were part of the meal.
We opted to go for the Special Dinner: Spring-Summer option, which focused on kawarayaki, Wagyu beef cooked in a way that resembles kawarasoba, a Yamaguchi style of cooking soba on a heated roof tile.
Breakfast was also good and stayed with the regional concept. Some dishes were a local miso soup and kamaboko (fish cake).
This was yet another enjoyable stay at a Hoshino Resorts KAI location and one in a rather remote, peaceful location that’s rich in history.
Furoshiki
If you’d like to watch a video of my stay there, please check it out below.
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Shizuoka: Hoshino Resorts KAI Enshu
A luxury ryokan resort focused on Japanese tea. The Hoshino Resorts KAI Enshu, an amazing getaway that dives into the local specialty.
Next to Lake Hamana is the Kanzanji Onsen area, a removed area near Hamamatsu City. Right at the lakeside is Hoshino Resorts KAI Enshu, a luxury resort that is all about tea.
Hoshino Resorts is one of the most well known and sought after luxury hot spring and resort ryokan chains in Japan.
If you’ve looked around at my Japan travels on my blog or watched some of my videos on YouTube, you may know that I’m a fan of their KAI brand. I’ve been fortunate to have stayed at some of their resorts such as:
We took a road trip to Hamamatsu in the spring of 2022, and I was able to stay at their KAI Enshu location.
How to get there
We drove to the ryokan, but it’s possible to get there by train and bus.
From JR Hamamatsu Station’s North Exit, there’s an Enshu Railway Bus from Bus Terminal Platform No. 1, that’s bound for Kanzanji Onsen. The bus will take you to Hamanako Bay Street, and it’s about a minute or two to the hotel on foot.
The lobby
Hoshino Resorts KAI Enshu focuses on the local area, just like other locations in this line. Shizuoka Prefecture accounts for 40% of Japan’s green tea, so it’s only right that this resort is focused on it.
The resort itself is centered around the tea garden pictured at the top, and there’s tea at every turn inside the resort as well.
At the entrance of the main indoor lounge area are these fancy-looking, cold-brew green tea dispensers.
Tea Stand for cold-brew tea
Nearby is their Tea Cellar, a long counter with personal teapots and about 13 different tea leaves with pictogram “Tea Cards” that explain about the tea and provide brewing recommendations.
It’s self-serve and you can make yourself a pot of tea and take it anywhere in the resort to enjoy.
Tea Cellar with 13 different types of tea
One of the teas at the Tea Cellar
In the same area is their Tea Lounge Bicharaku, a library space with tables and an elevated space that looks over the tea garden and Lake Hamana.
Tea Lounge Bicharaku library
Activities
There are a number of activities that guests are able to take part in. One of them is their tea brewing experience.
Here, an instructor educates participants exactly how to brew their tea. Once everyone has successfully brewed their cup and finished drinking it, a challenge is presented.
Three different cold teas are presented, and one of them is the same type of tea as the hot one that everyone just brewed. The challenge is to guess which one that is. It’s harder than it sounds!
Tea Bar for the tea brewing experience
Tea at the tea brewing experience
Taste test at the tea brewing experience
Rooms
We stayed in the Western-style Room with Lake View TA2, a room that measures 35㎡ big with 2 beds in the main space and a bathroom with shower (you probably won’t need it because of the onsen).
Like all the rooms, it had a main window that looked directly out at Lake Hamana which was gorgeous.
Main area of the room
Sofa by the room window
Bathroom
The Hot Spring
There are two onsen hot spring baths at Hoshino Resorts KAI Enshu.
One has two tubs, an indoor and an outdoor one that’s pictured below. It’s set in a serene location, surrounded by nature, and has a running fountain of fresh water pouring in.
One of the two public onsen baths
The second bath also has an indoor tub, but the main outdoor tub is unique as it has baskets of tea floating in it. The tub itself is wooden and circular, and although it’s a bit small, having the tea in their will give off an aroma that gives you quite a unique onsen experience.
The water that flows through Japanese onsen hot springs vary and depend on where the water is coming from. Each has a slightly different combination of minerals carrying different benefits to the skin and body.
Hoshino Resorts KAI Enshu’s onsen water is from the Kanzanji hot spring and is pretty clear in color. They report that their water has sodium, calcium, chloride, and strong saline.
One of the benefits said to be provided by this combination is that the salts coat the body like a veil to warm up and moisturize the skin.
Dining
Like most ryokan stays, Japanese kaiseki meals are included. Hoshino Resorts KAI Enshu’s meals are served in a dining hall that has separated rooms.
Like every other Hoshino Resorts KAI resort, this location had great meals.
The Hamamatsu area is known for unagi, or eel, but because we had plans to eat that in Hamamatsu city, we opted to go for the Standard Seasonal Dinner option.
Delicious dinner. Some pics are below.
Breakfast was also good and staying with the tea concept, some of the main dishes were served in a box of tea on top of tea leaves.
This was another enjoyable stay at a Hoshino Resorts KAI location and recommend it to anyone traveling in the area, especially if they have an interest in tea.
If you’d like to watch a video of my stay there, please check it out below.
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Matsuyama
Ehime’s main city, and home to the famous Dogo Onsen and Matsuyama Castle.
Matsuyama is the capital city of Ehime Prefecture
It is most known for its onsen hot springs and mkian oranges
It’s the largest city on Shikoku Island, the smallest of Japan’s major islands
Matsuyama is a city located in the northwest area of Ehime Prefecture. With just over half a million people, it’s the largest city in both the prefecture and Shikoku Island as a whole.
How we got there
Because Matsuyama is on Shikoku Island, the best way to get there is by flying into Matsuyama Airport. Once in the city, the Iyotetsu trams are a convenient way to get to various destinations such as the central Okaido area, Matsuyama Castle and Dogo Onsen.
Iyotetsu tram in Matsuyama, Ehime - Barrettish
About Matsuyama
Matsuyama is most known for its onsen hot springs, and the most famous area for them is Dogo Onsen. It’s a quaint town area filled with many ryokans (traditional Japanese inns), shops and attractions.
It’s also home to Matsuyama Castle, which sits on a mountain in central Matsuyama, overlooking the city.
Foodwise, the area is known for mikan oranges and a dish called taimeshi (sea bream fish and rice). It’s usually cooked in one of two ways; with the fish and rice steamed together, or with the fish eaten in sashimi style with a raw egg and rice.
I visited in late 2021 and found it to be a relaxing city that exceeded my expectations, although I admit that I didn’t really have any. I recommend spending a day or two here.
I also created a video while visiting Matsuyama and Ehime Prefecture:
Where we stayed
I experienced two hotels - one by myself while I worked and one as a couple.
Dormy Inn
The first was Dormy Inn, located on Okaido shopping street, a central area in the city.
Not only was it convenient and reasonable, there was a partial open-air onsen along with great amenities, free food served at certain hours, and free desserts such as popsicles.
https://www.hotespa.net/ [J]
MAP
Hotel Kowakuen Haruka
The second hotel, Hotel Kowakuen Haruka, was a Japanese-style ryokan right off the Dogo Onsen shopping street. Our Superior Twin room was about 35 m² (377 ft²), and half the room was tatami.
The breakfast was a buffet of both Western and Japanese foods, and there’s an onsen hot spring as well.
Asuka no Yu at Dogo Onsen
Dogo Onsen is one of Japan’s most famous onsen hot spring areas, and is the main tourist destination in Matsuyama City.
The main attraction is the Dogo Onsen Honkan, a public bathhouse that dates back in 1894. It’s said to have served as an inspiration for the Miyazaki film “Spirited Away”, but unfortunately it was covered due to an ongoing renovation.
The Iyotetsu tram goes right up to the Dogo Onsen shopping arcade.
The entrance to the Dogo Onsen shopping arcade.
The shopping arcade is about 250 meters long, and has various shops selling things such as local snacks and gifts to Imabari Towels, Japan’s most famous towels that are made in nearby Imabari.
The Dogo Onsen shopping arcade.
Botchan Karakuri Clock
The Botchan Karakuri Clock is right next to the shopping arcade’s main entrance. In the evenings, it comes alive.
The clock extends upwards on the hour while playing music, and its doors open as figurines move about. You can see some it in this part of my video.
The Botchan Train
The Botchan Ressha, or Botchan Train, is a small replica of a train that was used by locals for 67 years from 1888. It’s now diesel-powered and runs right to the central area of Dogo Onsen.
Dogo Onsen Starbucks
Starbucks has many “special” locations in Japan that are in historically significant buildings. This one is right in Dogo Onsen Station, a Meiji era building that was built in 1895.
Matsuyama Castle
Matsuyama Castle sits on top a centrally located mountain, giving visitors a wide view of the city.
It‘s one of the 12 castles in Japan that have basically remained intact over the years. It was originally finished in 1628. The tower today was built as a replacement in 1820.
The castle is only a few blocks from the Keisatsusho-Mae station on the Iyotetsu tram.
From there, you can either take a single-chair lift or a gondola up the mountain. From there, it’s a short uphill walk to the castle.
The lift up and down Matsuyama Castle
We went up for a visit on the last day of our trip. Being that it’s high above the city and it’s a place surrounded by nature, it’s quite peaceful.
https://www.matsuyamajo.jp/ [J]
Matsuyama City’s manhole cover
The main dish to try here is taimeshi.
Where we ate
Matsuyama Taimeshi Aka
Taimeshi is a local dish and is generally eaten in 2 different ways: 1) With the fish and rice steamed together or, 2) with raw fish eaten with hot rice and a raw egg/shoyu sauce poured over it.
We had the second version at Matsuyama Taimeshi Aka. If you have experience with authentic Japanese food, it’ll taste delicious, just like it sounds with no surprises. If not, think of it as good sashimi on rice.
This location is right in the central area of Dogo Onsen, and it’s worth stopping by to try the local cuisine.
Mikan no Ki
Because Ehime is known for its mikan oranges, there are orange-themed items everywhere. Snacks, baked goods, candies, stuffed animals, you name it.
Mikan no Ki is a shop in the Dogo Onsen shopping arcade that has orange items galore. Amongst them are local flavors of ice cream and sherbet, and they feature a range of different types of mikan orange flavors.
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Aomori: Hoshino Resorts KAI Tsugaru
A winter escape in Aomori at the Hoshino Resorts KAI Tsugaru, an amazing boutique ryokan full of local culture.
In Owani onsen, a rural area of Aomori, is Hoshino Resorts KAI Tsugaru, a fantastic retreat that lets guests dive into the local, Tsugaru culture.
Hoshino Resorts is one of the most well known and sought after luxury hot spring and resort ryokan chains in Japan. If you’ve looked around at my Japan travels on my blog or watched some of my videos on YouTube, you may know that I’m a fan of their KAI brand. I’ve been fortunate to have stayed at their KAI Kaga resort while visiting Kanazawa, their KAI Sengokuhara resort while visiting Hakone, as well as others.
While traveling around Aomori in the winter of 2021, I was able to get another chance to stay at one of their locations.
How to get there
We took the Ou Line limited express train from Aomori Station to Owani Onsen Station. Owani Onsen Station is a very local station, and a Hoshino Resorts KAI Tsugaru van will come and pick you up if you tell them when you will arrive.
As you check-in, you can schedule your meals (2 time options per meal) and schedule any activities. We did one, which was to have a drink in an igloo outside (top image), an activity that they only offer in the winter. In the summer, the area transforms into a lake with lanterns.
The Owani Onsen area is very local and not really convenient without a car, but it’s fine since the purpose of going to these types of ryokans is to relax at the resort. And this one allows that just fine.
The lobby and performance area
Library lounge and gift shop
Hoshino Resorts KAI Tsugaru, like other locations in this line, is focused on providing a local experience. A lot of the decor is from the area, using traditional patterns and techniques.
Tsugaru Koginzashi patterns decorate the room and resort
For example, the diamond-like pattern in decorations in the rooms and around the resort, as well as in the lighting in the halls, are called Tsugaru Koginzashi. It’s a traditional embroidery pattern devised by local farmers and primarily used on indigo fabrics, that’s been passed down through generations in the area.
Aomori’s Nebuta lantern decorations
After dinner, a traditional shamisen performance in the local style was performed by national champion Kohei Shibuya and a resident student of his. I have to say that they were impressive - a clip of their performance is in my video.
Rooms
We stayed in the Japanese-style Room TB2, a room that measures between 64㎡ big with 2 beds, a living room, bathroom with shower (you probably won’t need it).
Sleeping area of the room
The living room area
Bathroom
The Hot Spring
What makes Hoshino Resorts KAI Tsugaru’s onsen especially unique is the apples floating in the water. Aomori is known for apples, and they help give off a pleasant, sweet scent as you soak in the bath.
The water that flows through Japanese onsen hot springs vary and depend on where the water is coming from. Each has a slightly different combination of minerals carrying different benefits to the skin and body.
Hoshino Resorts KAI Tsugaru’s onsen water is from the Owani hot spring and is pretty clear in color. They report that their water has sodium, chloride, and sulfate.
This combination is said to help in areas such as protecting the skin from drying out, accelerating the body’s natural healing process, and coating the body like a veil to warm up and moisturize the skin.
Public indoor onsen bath area
Dining
Like most ryokan stays, Japanese kaiseki meals are included. Hoshino Resorts KAI Tsugaru’s meals are served in the dining hall that has separated rooms.
Like every other Hoshino Resorts KAI resort, this location had amazing food.
Aomori prefecture is known for maguro (tuna), and we opted to go for the special maguro kaiseki course.
It included dishes such as maguro akami (lean) and chutoro (medium fatty) sashimi, sushi, negima (maguro and green onion) hot pot, Aomori-grown rice cooked perfectly in an earthware pot, a maguro ochazuke set that you can adjust according to taste, and a bunch more. We also made sure to order some Aomori nihonshu, or sake, since the prefecture is also known for that.
Delicious dinner. Some pics are below.
Breakfast was also great and was centered on kaiyaki miso, a local dish where scallops are marinated in miso, cooked in its shell, and topped with lightly beaten raw egg.
I enjoyed my stay at the Hoshino Resorts KAI Tsugaru and recommend it to anyone traveling in the area. It’s a perfect place to go to for a retreat.
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Aomori: Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel
A beautiful and relaxing winter retreat surrounded by Aomori’s nature.
On a trip to explore northern Honshu island in February 2021, I was lucky enough to get to stay at Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keikyu Hotel in Towada, Aomori.
Hoshino Resorts is one of the most well known and sought after luxury hot spring and resort ryokan companies in Japan. I’ve stayed at a few in their KAI line, such as KAI Kinugawa (Nikko), KAI Sengokuhara (Hakone) and KAI Kaga (near Kanazawa).
This was the first time I was staying at one of their resorts that wasn’t in that line, and as expected, it was great as well.
Main lobby and check-in area
How to get there
We took the Tohoku Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo Station to Hachinohe in Aomori prefecture. From there, there’s a daily shuttle bus that you can request that is provided by the hotel. It takes about an hour and a half to get to the hotel.
The main lounge area
Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu is located along the Oirase stream, tucked away and completely surrounded by nature.
Because of this, if you want to leave the resort, you’ll need a car.
Luckily, Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu has a handful of tours and activities setup which they provide transportation for as well as equipment to rent. We took part in a couple, and I talk about those down below.
We stayed in the Modern Room, a room that measures 44㎡ with 2 beds, a bathroom, and a sofa looking out at the surrounding nature.
Modern Room
The Hot Spring
Maybe especially so because we went in the winter, but the onsen hot spring here was amazing, probably one of the nicest I’ve sat in.
Public indoor onsen bath area
In the winter, it’s called the “Frozen waterfall onsen” due to being surrounded by walls of ice. The hot water comes from Mt. Hakkoda, and the outdoor bath look out to the natural environment.
There is also an indoor part of the onsen that is quite big.
Dining
Like most ryokan stays, meals are included. Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu’s meals take place at their Aomori Ringo Kitchen, a dining area centered around an all-you-can-eat buffet.
Aomori Ringo Kitchen buffet
The food here was great, and yes, they had more than apples.
For dinner, the highlights are their roast beef and maguro (tuna) sashimi and negitoro. Their apple pie and self-serve soft serve ice cream dessert is also really good.
For breakfast, their ikura (salmon roe) and salmon flakes are amazing.
Activities
Because the Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu is secluded in the Towada area of Aomori, you basically need a car to go anywhere on your own. Because of this, they have option activities available that they’ll provide transportation for and offer gear to rent.
We went on two.
Night tour: Frozen waterfall
This was a short trip in a van to Makadoiwa Rock, a nearby waterfall that gets illuminated by LED lights. You don’t need any equipment and the whole trip takes only about an hour.
Snow trekking
This activity is in the daytime and took place twice a day. We opted for the later one that went from 1PM - 4PM. A van takes the group to a parking lot where we each strap into show shoes.
We followed the leader up and around a small mountain area until we ended up at Tatsunuma, a scenic swamp/lake. The guide was very informative, explaining the trees in the area and behaviors of the animals while looking at the tracks we came across.
All in all, this was a really nice stay and this resort was great. It exceeded my expectations and I’d love to visit again.
If you want to see the trip in video:
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Kaga Onsen: Hoshino Resorts KAI Kaga
A nice Kanazawa getaway at the Hoshino Resorts KAI Kaga, an upscale boutique ryokan that lets guest dive into local culture.
A break from life in a small, rural town near Kanazawa.
Hoshino Resorts is one of the most well known and sought after luxury hot spring and resort ryokan chains in Japan. I’ve stayed at their KAI Kinugawa resort while visiting Nikko, as well as their KAI Sengokuhara resort while visiting Hakone.
I was glad to get another chance to stay at one of their locations in 2020, while on a trip to Kanazawa.
HOW TO GET THERE
We took the Thunderbird Express train from Kanazawa Station to Kagaonsen Station, the quickest way at the moment. Kagaonsen Station is a very local station, but a Shinkansen station is currently being built to replace it. From there, there is a bus that will take you near the resort but if it’s difficult, catching a taxi may be easier.
A Hoshino Resorts KAI Kaga staff member greets you at the entrance and guides you to the check-in area. You put your shoes into a locker and wear slippers around the resort. You can then check-in and schedule your meals (2 time options per meal) and any activities such as massages.
The Kaga Onsen area is small and there isn’t much to do or see. This isn’t a big problem though, as the purpose of going to these types of ryokans is to relax at the resort.
The library lounge area
Hoshino Resorts KAI Kaga is focused on providing a local experience. A lot of the decor is from the area, using traditional patterns and techniques, and are created by local craftsmen. After dinner, a traditional lion dance is performed that was first performed in the region back in the 16th century.
We stayed in the Japanese-style Room TA3, a room that measures between 41㎡～51㎡ big with 2 beds, a living room, bathroom with shower, and balcony.
Living room area with mat flooring and sleep area in the back
The living room area
The balcony space
Bathroom with shower
The Hot Spring
The water that flows through Japanese onsen hot springs vary and depend on where the water is coming from. Each has a slightly different combination of minerals carrying different benefits to the skin and body.
Hoshino Resorts KAI Kaga’s onsen water is from the Yamashiro hot spring and is pretty clear in color. They report that their water has sodium, calcium, sulfate and chloride.
This combination is said to help in areas such as protecting the skin from drying out and accelerating the body’s natural healing process, as well as coating the body, therefore warming and moisturizing the skin.
Public indoor onsen bath area
Smaller outdoor public onsen area
Dining
Like most ryokan stays, Japanese kaiseki meals are included. Hoshino Resorts KAI Kaga’s meals are served in the dining hall that has separation barriers, allowing each party to have a private room.
Shokujidokoro (dining hall)
The Hoshino Resorts KAI line never fails to have amazing food.
Ishikawa prefecture is known for crab, and there are a few different crab kaiseki courses to choose from.
You can’t go wrong with any. Ours included dishes such as crab sashimi, crab hot pot, and a Shimenawa-Mushi steamed crab that is made by steaming the crab in a saltwater-soaked rope. Just so good.
Breakfast was also great and was centered on a seafood nabe (hot pot).
The Hoshino Resorts KAI Kaga was yet another resort in the KAI line that I enjoyed staying at. They really area an elegant onsen retreat. Whenever we have an extra day on a trip where we can afford to relax, we look to see if there’s a KAI location nearby.
I recommend this resort for anyone looking for a luxurious Japanese getaway.
Furoshiki wrapping cloths to take home
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Kusatsu Onsen
Ranked as one of the top onsen areas in Japan, Kusatsu Onsen is a quaint town to relax in with only hot springs on your mind.
Kusatsu Onsen is a hot spring town in Gunma prefecture
Amongst onsen areas in Japan, it consistently ranks in the top 3
It is said to offer the most natural hot spring water of any onsen area in Japan
A small town for onsen hot spring lovers. Kusatsu Onsen is one of the premier hot spring areas in Japan, and the town is even centered around it.
Located in Gunma prefecture, it’s a trip of about 3-4 hours from Tokyo by car/bus.
How to get there
I went by car, and it’s the easiest way to get to Kusatsu Onsen. There are no train stations in the area. From Tokyo, catching a Kosoku Bus from Shinjuku or Tokyo Station is a decent option.
About Kusatsu Onsen
The Kusatsu Onsen town area is small, with a little more than 6,000 residents. It’s a popular destination to drive to, particularly for Japanese residents living in nearby prefectures.
One of the aspects that makes Kusatsu Onsen unique is, well, its water. There are 6 hot spring sources in the area: Yubatake, Shirahata, Bandaiko, Sainokawara, Nigawa, and Jizo.
This makes the area have the largest amount of naturally heated spring water out of any area in Japan.
The main town area is built around the Yubatake spring. Its wooden troughs are meant to naturally cool down the piping hot water, and filter and collect “yunohana” hot spring mineral deposits which can be sold later.
A lot of the buildings in the area are distinctly Japanese. The 7-11 in the main area made their signs brown and white, which is what convenient stores and chains do when they set up a location in these cultural areas.
Where we stayed
There are many Japanese-style ryokans and hotels to choose from. We stayed at the Matsunoi, an older, more traditional, family-run ryokan with dinner and breakfast included.
Rooms were Japanese-style with tatami flooring. Guests sleep on futons laid out, and the shared natural onsen bath is downstairs.
The ryokan overall had friendly service and is a short 5-minute walk from the main, Yubatake area. At its price point of roughly USD $130/person/night with the upgraded local Wagyu “Joshugyu” dinner, it’s a pretty good deal.
What we did
As with most onsen trips, the main focus is relaxing in the onsen. On the 2-day, 1-night stay, I went down to the bath around 3 times.
While the bath at the Matsunoi Ryokan wasn’t luxurious and didn’t have a view, the steady flow of hot spring water was actually quite relaxing. The water itself had a silky feel to it, leaving your skin feeling nice and smooth.
Yubatake
Yubatake in the daytime at Kusatsu Onsen.
Basically being what the Kusatsu Onsen town is built around, it’s hard to miss Yubatake.
We came here both in the evening and in the daytime, and they’re both quite photogenic different views. In the evenings, the area is lit up and the illuminated clouds of steam make for nice pictures. That is probably one of the reasons why many younger Japanese flock here.
In the area, you can catch a show of people doing yumomi, a method of swishing the water to a chant in order to cool it down.
Yubatake in the evening at Kusatsu Onsen.
Sainokawa Park
Sainokawa Park at Kusatsu Onsen
On the way to Sainokawa Open-Air Bath (didn’t get to go) is a nice walk along a rocky riverbed of flowing, hot spring water.
We went in the fall, so the colorful leaves created a beautiful landscape to be in. You can see the steam rising from the water all the way up.
With only one night in the area, we were barely able to experience what Kusatsu Onsen actually has to offer. But we were able to kick back and relax.
That’s the point of onsen trips after all!
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Hakone: Hotel de Yama
A Hakone stay at Lake Ashi with at Hotel de Yama, overlooking the Hakone Azalea Fair.
Hakone’s Hotel de Yama with its garden in full bloom
Quite possibly the best location you could stay at in Hakone.
Hotel de Yama, also known as Yama no Hotel, is a 4-star resort located right on Hakone’s Lake Ashi.
It began as a vacation home for Koyata Iwasaki, nephew of Yataro Iwasaki, the founder of Mitsubishi. It is designed in a Western style and has catered to both domestic and international guests since 1948, just as was desired by Iwasaki.
HOW TO GET THERE
The easiest way to get to Hakone is via the Odakyu Romance Car express train, a 1 hour 15 minute ride from Shinjuku station.
Once arriving at Hakone-Yumoto station, the last stop, there are a couple of options. The easiest way is catching a bus from across the station that goes to the Motohakone area. From Motohakone, there are shuttles to Hotel de Yama.
Entrance to Hotel de Yama
Lobby area
We stayed here for a weekend in Hakone in May, when the Azalea and Rhododendron flowers are in bloom for the Hakone Azalea Fair. The flowers, 800 JPY (free for guests), are a big attraction draws a pretty decent crowd.
Hakone Azalea Fair
Hotel de Yama is unlike a lot of the other resorts in Hakone. Due to it being a Western style resort, it’s not a typical ryokan and more like a full-service hotel that you’re used to.
We stayed in a Standard Type room, a 30㎡ room with two full-size beds and a view of the garden and Lake Ashi. Prices vary depending on the room and season but will typically start at around $300/night.
Room with two double beds
View of Lake Ashi and the garden from the room
The resort, of course, has an onsen hot spring as well. One thing to keep in mind though, is that the male onsen is not as good as the female onsen. While females have an outdoor area with a view of the surrounding forest, males have high walls lining the perimeter of their bath and there’s no view.
In addition to the hot springs, Hotel de Yama also has a spa, karaoke room and banquet hall.
There are a few places to eat and drink as well. Salon de thé Rosage, a French cafe, Vert Bois, which specializes in French cuisine, the Lounge Bar for drinks, and Tsutsuji no Chaya, a Japanese kaiseki restaurant. We stayed with the Western theme for our meals.
Salon de thé Rosage
Chocolate cake with tea at Salon de thé Rosage
Salon de thé Rosage is separated from the main Hotel de Yama building and is right on Lake Ashi. They have both inside and outdoor seating.
The cafe has a cake set for 1,350 JPY that lets you pick from 4 different options - mont blanc, orange mousse, strawberry shortcake, chocolate cake - and pair it with tea.
VERT BOIS
Dinner at Vert Bois was a 6-course French meal by Chef Kiyotoshi Yusa. It also had a pretty nice list of wines to choose from - both by the bottle or in 1-3 glass sets.
Breakfast was also at Vert Bois and featured eggs (sunnyside up or omelet), salad, miso bacon, an original juice, pineapple, coffee/tea and bread.
Breakfast at Vert Bois
Checkout is at 12PM which gives you a lot of time to hit up the onsen one last time and relax in one of the massage chairs located in the dressing room.
Maybe the biggest benefit for people like me who enjoy taking photos is being close to Hakone Shrine. From the hotel, it’s easy really easy to walk on over to the picturesque torii gate before the massive crowd does (by 8:30AM). Nice hotel, fantastic location.
Hakone Shrine, just a short walk from Hotel de Yama
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Hakone: Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara
A peaceful Hakone getaway at the Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara, a luxurious boutique ryokan with private onsen hot spings.
Private onsen tub at Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara in Hakone
A blissful getaway where the day is spent silently soaking in a private onsen hot spring looking out at the view.
Hoshino Resorts is one of the most well known and sought after luxury hot spring and resort ryokan chains in Japan. I stayed at their KAI Kinugawa resort while visiting Nikko, so I knew that their boutique KAI line provides for a very relaxing weekend.
We stayed for a night at their KAI Sengokuhara location, which opened in 2018, this time when we stayed for a weekend in Hakone.
Sengokuhara
HOW TO GET THERE
We took the Odakyu Romance Car to Hakone from Shinjuku station, a popular way to get to Hakone besides driving. From there, the fastest route is catch a bus to the Daigatake stop in Sengokuhara [MAP], which is right in front of Family Mart. Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara Is located right up the hill next to it.
As soon as you enter the Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara‘s premises, a staff member approaches you to greet you and guide you up to the lobby. A long escalator takes you up to the lobby area, where you check-in and schedule your meals and any activities.
Lobby area with art room
This Hoshino Resorts KAI location is focused on art, so they have an optional activity that lets participating guests color a long cloth with Japanese scenes, something you do after dinner and then take home with you as a souvenir. The room keys also stay on the art theme, with keychains that have nicely displayed, dried, Japanese flowers.
We stayed in the Japanese-style Suite with Outdoor Bath RB2, a spacious room of just about 63㎡～70㎡ big with 2 double beds, a living room, detached desk space, balcony and private onsen bath outside. It was just under $400.
Living room area with a huge L-shaped sofa and Okinawan tatami mat flooring
The bed area is attached to the living room and features gorgeous lighting accents
Spacious balcony area with furniture for two
The bathroom is roomy and well designed
Desk area with a view looking outside at Sengokuhara
The Hot Spring
The water that flows through Japanese onsen hot springs vary and depend on where the water is coming from. Each has a slightly different combination of minerals carrying different benefits to the skin and body.
Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara‘s onsen water is from the Owakudani volcanic valley and is slightly milky white in color. They report that their water has “acid,” calcium, sulfur and chloride.
The “acid” helps with chronic dermatitis, sulfur with chronic dermatitis and circulation, and the chloride salts coat the body like a veil, warming and moisturizing the skin. It did leave my skin feeling pretty smooth indeed.
Public indoor onsen bath area
Smaller outdoor public onsen area
The lounge area by the public onsen baths has free popsicles, juice and tea
Dining
Like most ryokan stays, Japanese kaiseki meals are included. They’re served in the dining hall, one that is beautifully designed with Japanese aesthetics and allowing each party to have a private room.
Shokujidokoro (dining hall)
Dinner had several courses, each presented very nicely and was equally delicious.
Breakfast was just as impressive and a great meal to start off the next day.
Breakfast featuring fish and tonjiru (pork borth miso soup)
The Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara lives up to its high reviews as an elegant onsen retreat. It’s perfectly set up so that you see as few people as possible and the rooms themselves were just about silent. I definitely recommend this resort for anyone looking for a luxurious Japanese getaway.
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Yudanaka: Snow Monkeys and Onsen
Snow monkeys and onsen hot springs in an old Japanese town in the mountains.
Yamanouchi is a small town area in Nagano prefecture with about 12,500 people, and consists of the Yudanaka and Shibu Onsen areas
Snow monkeys, onsen hot springs and skiing are what Yamanouchi is known for
Tucked away in the mountains of northeast Nagano prefecture is Yudanaka, Yamanouchi, an onsen hot spring getaway. I visited the area while on a trip around Nagano in November 2018, and this was the second stop after traveling to Matsumoto city.
People mainly visit the area to either see the famous snow monkeys that take a dip in the onsen during the snowy winter, enjoy the hot springs themselves, or go skiing.
HOW TO GET THERE
There are 3 trains that go between Nagano and Yudanaka stations. From Nagano station, where the Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo makes a stop, you can catch either the Snow Monkey line (it’s actually called that), Nagaden express or local to Yudanaka station which is at the end of the line. Here’s a timetable.
Yamanouchi is separated into two main areas. There’s the Yudanaka area next to the station and the Chuo or “central” area a bit further in.
We stayed at a hostel in the Yudanaka area.
HIGH QUALITY HOSTEL AIBIYA
High Quality Hostel Aibiya is run by a family friend’s former student and his wife. They both speak good English and the hostel itself has a very homey feel.
A converted older building only a few minutes from Yudanaka station by foot, Aibiya has shared rooms and private rooms that share a bathroom, and a deluxe suite with its own toilet and bath.
There’s a shared hangout space on the first floor as well as a kitchen area where you can make yourself breakfast with food that they provide.
I’d recommend considering this hostel for anyone visiting the area, it’s quiet and they’re very accommodating.
We caught a taxi from Yudanaka station to one of the area’s main attractions: The snow monkeys.
JIGOKUDANI MONKEY PARK
There are 2 entrances to the park: Kanbayashi which is a 30 minute walk that has a cafe (see the end of this blog) near the entrance and a 15 minute walk that’s a little rockier of a path. We went in on the first, exited on the latter.
Visiting in late November, it wasn’t snowing yet so the monkeys were just hanging around the hot springs instead of soaking in them. The park has a livestream video feed to check the current conditions.
There are actually a lot of monkeys. The park’s staff come around and feed them, keeping them in the area in large numbers. They pretty much ignore the tourists, walking right around them and paying them no mind at all.
http://www.jigokudani-yaenkoen.co.jp
8:30AM-5:00PM (April to October)
9:00AM to 4:00PM (November to March)
After our monkeying around, we called a taxi and got brought to the central part of town.
SHIBU ONSEN
There are two areas in the Yudanaka, Yamanouchi area: The Yudanaka station area where our hostel was and the Shibu Onsen area.
Shibu Onsen is the bigger, main area, with a lot of ryokans and onsen hot springs spread around old, narrow streets.
Each onsen has a number, and a lot of visitors go on an onsen-hopping tour, jumping from one to the next. You’ll see them in their bath wear walking the streets.
There are some interesting places to check out, from small, old shops selling Japanese manju pastries to free onsen foot baths to old shateki toy rifle ranges that are hard to come by nowadays.
A young girl plays at an old, shateki toy rifle range.
From Shibu Onsen, we walked back to Yudanaka.
It’s walkable but the sun had set by 5:30PM which was when we headed back. There are some really dark portion of the walk and it’s quite some distance, especially if it’s in the middle of a cold winter, so I recommend walking while it’s still lit. Taxis are hard to come by as well since there’s only a few cars servicing the entire area.
YUDANAKA
The Yudanaka station area is smaller but more convenient as it’s minutes from the station.
Our hostel, the High Quality Hostel Aribiya was there, as well as a couple of onsen, including Yudanaka Onsen Yorozuya (Yoroduya) which I went to.
Yorozuya onsen has a large bath inside and connects to one outside that is placed in a rock garden. It’s a great place to relax in some peace and quiet amongst nature.
Yudanaka Onsen Yorozuya (Yoroduya)
Unfortunately, our vacation ended abruptly due to a medical emergency. I enjoyed what I saw while I was there though, and wouldn’t mind going back sometime.
Kakuma river in Yamanouchi at sundown
HAKKO
Right down the street from High Quality Hostel AIbiya is Hakko, which is owned by the same owners. Hakko specializes in using fermented foods like miso, soy sauce, sake, yogurt, bread, pickles, malt and cheese. A lot of their dishes uses local ingredients, and they feature local craft beers from Nagano prefecture as well. Dishes like their locally grown grilled pork pickled in sake lees stood out.
ENZA
Surprisingly good food for a tourist spot cafe. Enza is at the Kanbayashi entrance to the Jigokudani Monkey Park so it’s a convenient food fix before or after seeing the monkeys. This bowl of local Zenkoji-miso chicken ramen hits the spot on a cold day.
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Nikko: Hoshino Resorts KAI Kinugawa
A great night in Nikko at Hoshino Resorts KAI Kinugawa.
The Kinugawa River near Hoshino Resorts KAI Kawaji
The entrance to the resort was a private tram lifting us up a hillside.
Hoshino Resorts is one of the most well known and sought after hot spring and resort ryokan chains in Japan. We stayed for a night at their KAI Kinugawa location, which is part of their KAI line, when we visited Nikko for a weekend.
The entrance to the resort was very unique. We boarded a small tram that took us up a track along the hillside. The staff greeted us at the top where we entered the tranquil resort grounds.
KAI Kinugawa is beautifully designed and Japanese-styled, and the ryokan rooms border around a garden area in the center.
The rooms are spacious and comfortable, and each has a balcony to the outside. They’re about 40m² each and ranges between $300 to $600 USD per night.
Welcome snacks at Hoshino Resorts KAI Kinugawa
The onsen hot springs are nice and relaxing, and when we went, wasn’t crowded despite the resort typically being quite full. I personally don’t like going into an onsen that’s full of people, and I didn’t have an issues here.
Outside of the onsen is an all-you-can-eat popsicle freezer and a lineup of several bottles of nihonshu, or Japanese sake, free for the taking.
Like all ryokans, Japanese kaiseki meals are included, and it rounds out the ryokan experience. KAI Kinugawa’s definitely didn’t disappoint. Each dish is beautifully presented, cooked to perfection with careful Japanese details, and is filling.
Overall, the experience at KAI Kinugawa was one of the better ryokan experiences that I’ve had in Japan. Not a bad choice when staying over in Nikko.
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Shimoda: A Presidential Onsen Getaway At Seiryuso
This upscale onsen resort getaway was fitting enough for a US President.
Out on a peninsula in Shizuoka prefecture is Shimoda, a rural area with onsen hot springs and ryokans surrounded by nature.
While there is a small train station in the town, we, like most others visiting the area, came by car.
The town is extremely small, so expect to stay at the ryokan for your full stay. You won't want to leave anyway.
We did take a walk around the neighborhood and there isn't much to see. There weren't any convenience stores either - odd in Japan. The one store that had their door open was one of the more creepier stores with it's flickering dim fluorescents with no one manning the half-stocked shop.
Seiryuso
We stayed at Seiryūso, an upscale ryokan resort that US President Jimmy Carter stayed at in 1979. It's presidential indeed.
The grounds were clean and well kept, and from arrival to departure, the service was on point.
Sakura tea served upon arrival
The ryokan’s rooms are beautifully set near a river [map] and the spacious rooms have their own onsen baths in a private space that opens to the outdoors. It’s walled for privacy but there are window slits that can be opened in order to take in the natural surroundings as you relax.
Main room with a balcony out in front and a tatami room behind
Bathroom with dual sinks, shower, and the private onsen tub outside
The room's private onsen has constantly running hot spring water
The resort itself has a huge outdoor pool that is heated by the natural hot spring water, sauna and steam room, massage chairs and more, and the grounds are quite spacious.
The Olympic-sized outdoor heated pool
The Japanese meals were delicious and really filling, and we enjoyed them in our Japanese yukata wear.
If you’re looking for an upscale onsen getaway that's somewhere other than Hakone, Seiryūso in Shimoda is a really nice place to consider as a destination. Everything was pleasant and provided us with a refreshing recharge.
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Hakone
One of the most famous onsen hot spring resort areas in Japan, Hakone makes for a nice weekend trip right outside of Tokyo.
Hakone Shrine
Hakone is one of the most famous areas for onsen hot springs and ryokans
It’s been a popular vacation getaway for Japanese for hundreds of years, and was considered a nice honeymoon destination
It is a former checkpoint to get into Edo (old Tokyo)
[Updated 2019]
The most well known onsen hot spring town near Tokyo is Hakone, a mountain resort area just over an hour outside of the city. Its relaxing environment is complimented by clear views of Mt Fuji.
Mt Fuji, seen from Motohakone.
HOW TO GET THERE
The easiest way to get to Hakone is via the Odakyu Romance Car express train, a 1 hour 15 minute ride from Shinjuku station.
Once arriving at Hakone-Yumoto station, the last stop, there are a couple of ways to get around, depending on where your ryokan is. There are buses across the station as well as the Hakone Tozan train, a 2-car train that goes up and down the mountain between Hakone-Yumoto and Gora stations.
The onsen hot springs and ryokans are spread out all over the mountain. Because most vacationers go to mainly relax at the ryokan where food is provided, restaurants and convenience stores are sparse in a lot of areas.
WHERE TO STAY
Here are a couple of places that I’ve stayed at and recommend:
Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara - A modern ryokan with a private onsen by one of Japan’s most famous chains
Hotel de Yama - A Western-style hotel right on the Lake Ashi waterfront in Motohakone
The main sightseeing happens between Motohakone at Lake Ashi and Gora station, where the Hakone Tozan train ends and the Hakone Tozan cable car starts. The cable car ends at Souzan station, where it connects to the Hakone Ropeway that goes down to Lake Ashi.
You can do your sightseeing going either way, from Lake Ashi to Gora or vice versa. I’ve done both. One of the ropeway stations is a popular stop: Owakudani.
ŌWAKUDANI
Ōwakudani is a geologically active area, with sulfur continuously rising out of the mountain. The name literally means “Great boiling valley” in Japanese.
This area is famous for its black eggs which are created by boiling them in the bubbling mineral-rich waters. It may look odd, but definitely try one, it's good! The belief is that eating one of these eggs adds 7 years to your life - so it’s not a healthy Japanese diet guys, it’s these eggs!
I also tried wasabi ice cream from a shop there which had a tiny kick to it. Not a must have but fun to try something different.
Eggs are boiled in these mineral-rich waters.
The final result: Black eggs ready to eat. They give you salt to dip it in.
The other end of the ropeway is Lake Ashi. At the ropeway station there, there’s a boat resembling a pirate ship that connects to the Motohakone area.
MOTOHAKONE
Afternoon walk around Motohakone
Motohakone is a lakeside town with Japanese gift shops, swan-shaped paddle boats to rent and head out on the lake, and a bunch of coffee shops. It’s also known for being one of the endpoints of the Hakone Ekiden, a collegiate marathon that many Japanese watch during New Year’s.
Historically, this area is significant because it had the Hakone Sekisho Checkpoint, a former entrance point to Edo, or old Tokyo.
The most popular sight in the area is Hakone Shrine. It’s lakeside torii gate (pictured at top) is amongst the must-have Japan photos, and tourists line up in order to get a shot of themselves here. It is extremely photogenic, but I’d recommend getting there by 8:30AM in order to avoid the crowd and have a moment to enjoy being there - the Lake Ashi sight with the water lapping at the torii is truly relaxing.
Hakone Shrine’s photogenic torii gate at Lake Ashi
HAKONE OPEN-AIR MUSEUM
Symphonic Sculpture by Gabriel Loire at the Hakone Open-Air Museum
Besides hot springs and nature, Hakone surprisingly has several museums. The most popular and photogenic is the Hakone Open-Air Museum, an open park-like area with various sculptures and installations to explore.
Some of the popular, photogenic installations are the Symphonic Sculpture, Curved-Space Diamond Structure, Woods of Net and the Picasso Pavilion. I’ve been here once and went through it pretty quickly (1 hour) due to being pressed for time, but it’s actually a pretty big area and worth exploring a little bit.
HAKONE TOWN
Hakone Town, outside of Hakone-Yumoto station
Hakone town is the area right outside of Hakone-Yumoto station, the entrance/exit point to Hakone if you catch the Odakyu Romancecar. There's a bunch of shops with traditional Japanese foods and snacks, both to eat on the spot or to take home, which is why exploring this area might be best as a last stop. One shop even had an outdoor fire with free pieces of fish where you could grill yourself to try.
While eating at the ryokan probably provided good enough meals, the two places I recommended do for sure, there are a couple other spots that I’d say should be on the do not miss list. These will round out a trip to Hakone very nicely:
Yubadon Naokichi
Yuba is the top layers of tofu that form as its being made, and tofu is one of the foods Hakone is known for. Yubadon Naokichi specializes in yuba over rice, “yuba-don”, and is well known for it. They have lunch sets featuring tofu served in various ways, but go with the standard yuba-don set. You probably have never had tofu this way and it’s delicious.
Because it's well known and right in Hakone Town, this place can get quite crowded. Go early if you can - it opens at 11AM.
TOMOEI
Perhaps the best unagi I’ve ever eaten, top 2 at least! Unagi Tomoei is ranked as a “popular spot” on Retty, one of Japan’s top review sites, and it’s well deserved. The unagi here is amazing - flavorful, fluffy and grilled to perfection. They use sake quality spring water to prep, and you enjoy it on solid wooden tables. The “jo-unagi” (bigger size) set, including soup and pickles will start at 4,600 JPY after a 1+ hour wait, but it’ll be so worth it, trust me.
Unagi Tomoei is at the edge of the Hakone area and can be accessed by catching Hakone Tozan train from Hakone-Yumoto to Kazamatsuri station.
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Beppu: An Onsen City
A short getaway to Kyushu's famous onsen city.
Any fan of onsen hot springs in Japan knows about Beppu. It's a small city that sits along Kyushu's east coast in Oita prefecture, near the border of Fukuoka. You'll know you've arrived when you start seeing steam rising from buildings and smelling sulfur in the air.
Beppu isn't fancy or luxurious, nor is it a city that's built like a resort area. It's meant to have the onsen be the central focus, a time to get away. Some friends and I made a few trips here while I was living in Yukuhashi, Fukuoka, to do just that.
There are places to visit in the city, too. The most famous is the 7 "Hells" - a couple of areas with different types of waters bubbling up to create a range of environments, most of which look like another world. While they're good for a quick look, there's no need to have it take up a chunk of your schedule.
Umijikoku (Sea Hell)
Chinoikejikoku (Blood Hell)
To get above the city, go to the Beppu Ropeway for a gondola ride up Mount Tsurumi.
The neighboring area also has an African safari where you have the opportunity to feed roaming animals from the inside of a caged bus. Giraffes, kangaroos and lions, along with a tiger cub petting room makes it a fun experience for all ages. Make sure to keep your hands in the cage around the lions - no Simba's around here!
Businesses in the area tend to have a little more English-capable staff compared to other cities in Kyushu due to an international university nearby. While most meals will likely be in the ryokan that you're staying at, here's one place you can check out:
Rokusei
If you could use a break from the Japanese washoku meals at the ryokans, check out Korean-style reimen here. It's a really small, hole-in-the-wall shop, but these cold noodles of their's is refreshing in the summer.
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Yufuin: Oita's Onsen Town
Spending a night in Oita's quaint little onsen town.
If you're looking to find a perfect little Japanese onsen (hot springs) getaway in Kyushu, Yufuin is your place. Unlike Beppu, a city, Yufuin is a small town tucked nearby some mountains and surrounded by the nature of Oita prefecture.
We stayed at Yawaragi-no-Sato Yadoya, nothing extraordinarily fancy but just right in terms of what you get for the price. It's near the main street area, yet just off it for some peace and quiet. Included along with the room was some private onsen time where you can relax in an outdoor onsen without dealing with random strangers, and a yakiniku dinner at Yadoya's Bungo Tei (see below) featuring bungogyu beef - the local Oita wagyu. Getting to spend time in an onsen alone while being surrounded by peace and quiet (versus other men!) was nothing short of relaxing. And the bungogyu beef after? Amongst the best wagyu beef I've had in Japan.
Taking a walk around Yufin town adds to the getaway experience. There's a lot of shops selling Japanese goods, local specialties, as well as desserts and homemade confectionaries.
A bridge near Lake Kinrin.
Lake Kinrin.
Bungo Tei
Some of the best meals in Japan are when wagyu beef is involved. Bungo Tei serves melt-in-your-mouth, local "bungygyu" wagyu along with a variety of Japanese dishes. Definitely check it out if you're in town.
Visiting the Furano area of Hokkaido in the summer, a popular tourist destination for Japanese