Nakameguro, Tokyo: Starbucks Reserve Roastery
A premium Starbucks experience with a unique, Japanese twist at their second largest location in the world.
The second largest Starbucks in the world as of 2020, Tokyo’s Starbucks Reserve Roastery is an impressive coffee experience and is situated in the hip, artsy neighborhood of Nakameguro.
How to get there
Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo is a several minute walk from Nakameguro Station, which is accessible via the Tōyoko and Hibiya lines. It’s located along the Meguro riverside, one of the main destinations in the area.
The first floor coffee counters of Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo
Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo was the 5th of its kind, and the opening was a huge event.
It’s been a popular destination for locals and tourists alike, so much so that it’s typical to have to go to the building next door in order to pull a number for a time slot. They use a system called AirWAIT, and you’ll be able to check how many people are in front of you in real-time.
Because tourism is almost non-existent in this 2020 summer, I seized the opportunity and checked it out.
Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo was formerly the biggest Starbucks in the world, edging out Starbucks Reserve Roastery Shanghai (which I also visited) in 2019 before being dethroned later that year by Chicago’s. It is 4 stories and 32,000 sq. ft. (2,973 sq. meters) big.
Sakura cask at Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo
It’s centered around a 56-foot (17 meter) high copper cask, decorated with 2,100 copper cherry blossom flowers and leaves, handcrafted by Japanese artisans.
This perfectly aligns not only with Japan, but also with the neighborhood since the Meguro river right next to it is known for its cherry blossoms. I personally consider it to be one of Tokyo’s top 5 photogenic cherry blossom spots.
Cherry blossoms over the Meguro River which is next to the Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo
The attention to detail at this location is fantastic, and something very Japanese.
The shop was designed by top Japanese architect Kuma Kengo, who has designed other Starbucks locations like the one in Dazaifu, Fukuoka, as well as the Tokyo Olympic Stadium and many other buildings.
The ceiling brings forth images of Japanese wood crafts, and was indeed inspired by origami. Much of the wood in the shop, from counters to tables to walls, are made of Japanese cyprus.
Even the staff demonstrated the Japanese “omotenashi” hospitality mixed with a friendly touch. There were no shortage of smiles (despite masks) and even when I felt my camera may be distracting, they’d give a thumbs up, invite me to take closer shots, and even offered to start brewing coffee for a better shot.
The first floor
Brew station and coffee bar on the first floor of Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo
The first floor focuses on coffee, baked goods and the gift shop.
Taking up the majority of the floor are the main coffee bar and the bean roasting facilities. The first floor’s roaster is at the base of the copper cask, flanked by the main bar which serves an enormous range of coffees.
From 5 different brew methods comes coffees like whiskey barrel-aged cold brew, and concoctions with names such as Melrose-Tokyo, Shakerato-bianco and Pepper nitro with with a Jerky-twist.
Princi bakery at the Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo
Princi, a bakery from Milano, has one of their three Tokyo locations here. From artisan sandwiches to tarts to sourdough bread, there’s likely something that will be appealing.
After trying their mango baguette and Princi loaf, I was sold! Basically they’re my new favorite bakery. We even went to their Daikanyama location the next week to buy more.
The gift shop area has everything coffee and Starbucks related, including clothing and a collaboration castella cake with famous, nearby Japanese bakery Fukusaya [J].
The shop was actually smaller than I expected, especially after seeing the size of Shanghai’s location and the fact that Japanese love buying souvenirs. In any case, there’s likely something you’ll at least consider purchasing.
The second floor
TEAVANA at the Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo
The stairs to the right of Princi leads up to the second floor, which is Starbucks’ tea-focused floor - TEAVANA.
There’s a main counter, a seating area, a separate tea section that brings you closer to the different types of tea, and a wall for tea items available for purchase.
The third floor
ARRIVIAMO Bar at the Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo
The third floor was where we decided to take a seat. It’s divided into a few sections - a second roasting facility, an outdoor seating area and the ARRIVIAMO Bar.
The bar is where coffee craft and mixology comes together, and a handful of skilled bartenders create and serve a range of coffee-inspired cocktails and mocktails.
We ordered two drinks: A Silver Needle Highball and a Starbucks Reserve Espresso Martini.
The Silver Needle Highball was made with white tea and was officially described as having a gentle scent, light floral taste and silky texture. It was very subtle and smooth, the most refined highball I’ve ever had.
The Starbucks Reserve Espresso Martini was made with single origin Rwanda Abakundajawa coffee (officially described as having a medium roast and body, with hints of tangerine zest, graham crackers, and nougat, and being smooth and sweet), single malt vodka, vanilla syrup and bean to bar chocolate. After debating the steep ￥2,000 price, I went for it and have zero regrets. It was ridiculously good.
The fourth floor
Outdoor deck at the Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo
The top floor is called AMU Inspiration Lounge, and is mainly a seating area. There’s both an indoor area and outdoor deck space.
Like the third floor deck, it looks out to a view of the Meguro river, which will be beautifully covered in pinkish-white cherry blossoms during the spring.
The 24th anniversary of Starbucks’ first store in Japan - sign at the Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo
What was cool about our visit, and it was completely coincidental, was that it was on the 24th anniversary of Starbucks’ opening their first shop in Japan.
The first shop was in Ginza, Tokyo, and the first order was a double tall latte.
“Straight from cask to cup” signs around the Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo
Everything here was amazing and once again, I found myself really impressed by Starbucks Reserve Roastery.
It’s a culmination of a global coffee chain focusing on the craft and details, and adding their own artistic twist to it in order to create a premium experience for coffee fans.
Worth a visit.
Bagging station at the Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo
Above the main coffee bar at the Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo
“Handpicked at the roastery” window at the Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo
“Tokyo” coffee card wall at the Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo
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Nakameguro, Tokyo
Most famous for its cherry blossoms, Nakameguro is a hip, artsy neighborhood home to some great food, including "the best pizza in Tokyo,” and Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo.
Nakameguro cherry blossoms illuminated at night
Nakameguro is a laid back neighborhood just a few minutes from Shibuya
It is best known for its cherry blossoms
Many hip, artsy people visit here, an area full of cafes and boutiques
The reason I first visited Nakameguro was for its famed cherry blossoms - a 2.4 mile (4km) tunnel over the Meguro River made up of about 800 trees.
This one to two week period gets really crowded, and after seeing how beautiful the flowers are at day and during the light-up festival at night, it’s easy to see why.
I’ve taken photos here a few times, and it’s in my video for top 5 photogenic cherry blossom spots in Tokyo.
Another image that comes to mind when thinking about Nakameguro is that it’s an expensive residential area. There are many cafes, boutiques and galleries that attract the artistic, fashionable and hipster from around Tokyo.
How to get there
Two train lines run through Nakameguro Station: The Tōyoko Line and the Hibiya Line. From Shibuya on the Tōyoko Line, it’s only 4 minutes. From Ebisu on the Hibiya Line, it’s only 2 minutes.
About Nakameguro
Nakameguro simply means “inside Meguro” and it is indeed located in the Meguro Ward.
The area went through a revival in the ‘90s and has become an area for artists and designers to open up studios and shops.
Meguro Ward is amongst the most expensive wards in Tokyo to live. One of the reasons, perhaps, is it’s said to be strong against earthquakes. [J]
In any case, Nakameguro is generally considered to be one of the most appealing areas in the ward, and is often compared to similarly stylish areas such as Daikanyama, Jiyūgaoka, Ebisu and Aoyama.
Two of the main areas of Nakameguro are along the Meguro River (above) and under the train tracks, also known as Nakameguro Koukashita.
Housing in Nakameguro
Nakameguro is considered a highly desirable area to live and is amongst the most expensive in Tokyo. The average price per month for a 1K studio apartment is 131,500 JPY (USD $836) while a 1LDK single bedroom apartment is 231,300 JPY (USD $1,469) on average as of June 2024. [J]
Meguro Riverside
The roads along the riverside are lined with shops that range from street fashion to bakeries to crafts and cafes.
I personally haven’t shopped or ate at many but places like Mark Matsuoka Grill [MAP], Cheese Cake Johan [MAP], and green bean to bar Chocolate [MAP] seem to be amongst the popular spots.
Also along the riverside is one of the newer Nakameguro destinations, Starbucks Reserve Roastery Tokyo. It’s one of only several of its kind in the world and the Tokyo location is 4 floors and 32,000 sq. ft. of Starbucks’ finest offerings. If you haven’t been to one, it’s worth checking out.
Nakameguro Koukashita
Under the train tracks and out to the southwest is Nakameguro Koukashita, a line of restaurants and boutiques.
It actually starts directly under the station with Tsutaya, a well known bookstore chain. Like many of their locations, their Nakameguro one is thoughtfully designed, and has spaces for browsing, talking and meeting. Also in the complex is a Starbucks and a few other cafes.
Towards the southwest are individual shops. Most are restaurants and cafes that are casual yet slightly fancy. As you get further from the station, there are more up-and-coming designer boutiques.
Exploring the areas adjacent to both of these main streets is something that I’ve found to be interesting recently.
There are numerous little artisan coffee shops and stylish eateries, but also hole-in-the-wall izakayas, vegetable stands and even fish markets like Sakana Bacca [MAP].
The cherry blossoms may have been what initially brought me to Nakameguro, but more and more, I’m feeling that there’s a whole lot more to the area that I’ve yet to experience.
For visitors, it’s a good place to dive into the stylish world of local Tokyo craft.
What we ate
Seirinkan
Seirinkan is often considered the best pizza in Tokyo, and that statement may be correct.
It’s been featured in places like CNN and enjoyed by many including David Chang, who went on to say “the best pizza in the world is in Tokyo” on his Netflix show “Ugly Delicious.”
The shop itself is in a modified factory-like building and its decor makes it somewhat of a Beatles shrine. You have to go up a pretty scary spiral staircase, but don’t let it deter you from getting a seat.
Unlike a lot of other top pizza chefs, Seirinkan’s never actually trained in Naples and he utilizes Japanese ingredients, prioritizing freshness over origin.
Now I’m generally not a crust fan, but wow, this one (and pizza as a whole) was amazing. I understand the hype.
Udatsu Sushi
Udatsu Sushi is in a residential area and is such a treat. Behind a concrete facade and wooden door is an artistically designed space with a chef that serves equally impressive sushi.
Our lunch course featured about 17 different dishes, each crafted to perfection.
The chef grew up in a family that ran a meat shop but was drawn to sushi. After gaining experience at a Michelin starred sushi restaurant, he opened this omakase. He uses two different shari (sushi rice) in order to best match with the fish, and dishes like his handroll that had ingredients such as takenoko (bamboo shoots), garlic chips and miso are playful with flavor and texture.
I have to say that I really enjoyed the experience. I’d love to go back here for a meal and I definitely recommend it.
Junkadelic
The best Mexican food I’ve had in Tokyo.
As someone who’s spent several years in California, I’ve been on a hunt to find decent Mexican food in Tokyo. So far, Junkadelic is it.
The concept is based on experiences the owner had in San Diego, and Junkadelic’s food and decor aims to mimic that vibe in Tokyo. It’s not one of those hyper-localized international places - it does make you feel like you’ve transported someplace else for a bit.
A great place when you need a break from Japanese food and are craving some Tex-Mex.
Happy Pudding Makahala
You can’t really go wrong if there’s “happy pudding” in the name right? Happy Pudding Makahala is located right off the Meguro riverside - a small shop for easy takeout.
It was originally a dessert item at a kushikatsu izakaya, but due to its popularity, the standalone shop was born. It’s a premium pudding - using high-end eggs from an area in Hyogo prefecture, near the owner’s hometown.
The custard pudding is rich and smooth, and they also have special seasonal flavors such as mango, matcha, sweet potato and more.
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Jiyugaoka, Tokyo
Considered one of Tokyo’s stylish areas, Jiyūgaoka is known for its cafes, patisseries, and boutique shopping with a little European ambience.
Jiyūgaoka is considered one of Tokyo’s fashionable, sophisticated areas by locals
Many are attracted to the area’s cafes, patisseries and boutiques
From Shibuya, Jiyūgaoka is only about a 15-minute train ride
Jiyūgaoka was someplace I always wanted to visit but didn’t until my fifth year in Tokyo. I should’ve visited earlier.
Known for its quaint and fashionable vibe, sweet shops and boutiques, it’s considered to be one of the more appealing areas in Tokyo. Locals typically categorize it as an “oshare na machi” which means stylish town, along with other areas such as Aoyama, Daikanyama and others.
How to get there
Two train lines run through Jiyūgaoka Station: The Tōyoko Line and the Ōimachi Line. The majority of people will be catching the Tōyoko Line, which takes you to Jiyūgaoka in about 15 minutes from Shibuya Station.
About Jiyugaoka
The area is located in the Meguro Ward, and in addition to being an appealing area, it is a widely considered to be a desirable place to live as well. This is reflected in the housing costs as they are typically higher than average.
Jiyūgaoka means “freedom hill” in Japanese and is named after nearby Jiyūgaoka-gakuen High School (roughly translating to “liberal hill high school”). The area began to grow rapidly after the end of WWII.
Today, Jiyūgaoka tends to attract a lot of women as there are a lot of cute cafes, sweets shops and boutiques aimed at a middle-upper-middle class lifestyle.
Buildings seemingly European-inspired can be found in the area, further increasing its appeal as a little escape from “typical Tokyo”. One of the areas mimics Venice (pictured at top), and while small, offers a little pocket of fantasy. Marie Claire Promenade (below) with its bench area in the middle of the street - something almost non-existent in Tokyo - is another.
Marie Claire Promenade
What I like about Jiyūgaoka however, is that it’s balanced.
While I do like the stylish parts of Tokyo, I also like the old alleys, tiny pubs and run down shops - and Jiyūgaoka has both.
A guy turns around and poses as I take a photo of a Jiyūgaoka alley
Stray off the promenade area and the environment changes a little. Cafes turn to small izakayas, boutiques turn to bars, and more people are focused on drinking their beers than taking photos with cute drinks.
Housing in Jiyugaoka
Because of its fashionable reputation, rent in Jiyugaoka is higher than average. The average monthly cost for a 1k studio apartment is 91,900 JPY (USD $584) and a 1LDK single bedroom apartment is 184,900 JPY (USD $1,176) as of June 2024. [J]
Events
There are two main events that happen in Jiyūgaoka.
One is the Marie Claire Festival, which happens in May, where food stalls line the promenade and live performances can be enjoyed.
The second is the Jiyūgaoka Megami Festival, held in October, where over 1,000 shops and eateries open stalls and have sales.
Jiyūgaoka is rarely visited by travelers on their first trip to the city. Because of this, it makes for a great destination for anyone who wants to get a taste of Tokyo that locals like while not dealing with the masses of tourists.
Kosoan Tea House
Relaxing in a traditional Japanese setting, drinking Japanese tea. If that’s something you wouldn’t mind doing in Japan, Kosoan is a good place to do it.
Kosoan is in an old Japanese house up a hill in Jiyūgaoka, and because there are no signs, it’s easy to miss. The entrance is in the courtyard - a nicely maintained Japanese landscape. You remove your shoes as you enter and sit on tatami mats as you enjoy you tea in a peaceful atmosphere.
My recommendation: Anything matcha.
Milk Land
Drinking milk may not be on you “Things to do in Japan” list, but if you like milk, you should. Coming from the US, I’ve realized that Japanese milk is really good.
The best milk in Japan comes from Hokkaido, and Milk Land is a sort of Hokkaido Prefecture shop offering various dairy products from the region. The shop itself is cutely decorated, and there’s a two-floor cow standing in the middle of it.
They have a sampler where you can choose 3 brands of milk to taste. Try that for a rich, creamy experience. Getting some soft-serve won’t be too bad either.
Bareburger
For those that need a break from Japanese food, Bareburger is a good option. The organic burger shop from New York is very selective in where they open, and chose Jiyūgaoka for their first location in Japan.
The shop is a two-floor, indoor-outdoor space located in a small, stylish square along with a few other eateries and fashion boutiques.
Their onion rings are popular amongst Japanese, and they also feature Japan-only items such as a premium Ozaki beef burger.
* This location has closed.
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