Travel Log Barrett Ishida Travel Log Barrett Ishida

Kyoto: The Food Tour

After several visits to Kyoto and seeking out authentic Kyoto foods, here’s where I recommend.

I’ve been to Kyoto several times over the years and even planned a trip that made food more of a priority than the destinations.

Many people - including myself - have gone to Kyoto and had Japanese food, but often miss actual Kyoto foods. Here are some places that I’ve been to and recommend, both authentic Kyoto food and just good food in the city.

 

Kappo Bar

Kappo is a style of high-end Japanese dining, and the appropriately named Kappo Bar specialized in this type of cuisine. In all honesty, this was one of my favorite meals I’ve had in Kyoto.

The restaurant is located down a small alley between the Gion and Ninnenzaka areas, and is in an old Japanese house.

The main seats are on a counter in front of the chef, so you can watch him prepare everything as well as interact with him. The quality of food here was amazing and I highly recommend it.

https://kappobardoi.gorp.jp/ [J]
MAP

 

Nakamura Tokichi

When in Kyoto - and more specifically, when in Uji - you have to get matcha since it’s known for it. Nakamura Tokichi began here in 1854 and has had several generations of owners.

We made a reservation for their tea room, where we could sit on tatami mats, sip matcha and eat namacha, which is a dessert that comes in a bamboo cup. In it are sweets such as anko (red bean), matcha jelly, mochi and matcha ice cream.

There’s also a gift shop that has a range of matcha powder at different levels, matcha baked goods, hojicha (roasted green tea) and more. Definitely a stop to be made when in Uji.

https://www.tokichi.jp/
MAP

 

Nikuya Kurokawa

Simple but so delicious. Also located in Uji is Nikuya Kurokawa, an extremely popular restaurant that specializes in wagyu beef donburi’s (over rice).

We got their regular wagyu beef donburi and one that was mixed together with takuan, which is a type of Japanese pickles. Both came with an egg yolk that you can put on top and a soup.

You need to go really early as there was already a line 30 minutes before opening, and be prepared with cash. It was worth it, though, this meal was very, very good.

MAP

 

Menami

Authentic Kyoto cooking. Obanzai is a Kyoto cooking style that resembles simple, traditional home cooking.

There are a handful of rules that need to be followed in order for it to be called “obanzai”. For example, obanzai cooking requires using ingredients that are in season, and at least half of them needs to be produced or processed in Kyoto.

Menami has table seats and a counter that is really cool as dishes are lined up on the counter and you can watch the chefs cook up the meals. The food was delicious and as expected with Kyoto cuisine, most dishes had a light, subtle taste.

http://www.menami.jp/ [J]
MAP

 

Yachiyo

Located right near Nanzenji is Yachiyo, a ryokan hotel with a restaurant open to non-guests as well. They specialize in tofu, a dish that is amongst the foods Kyoto is known for most.

Their lunch course has an assortment of small dishes, many of which are different types of tofu, and it’s all centered around yudofu (tofu hot pot).

It's an excellent Japanese "washoku" meal experience, and a place that my family and I have gone to more than once.

http://kyoto-nanzenji-yachiyo.jp/ [J]
MAP

 

Wajouryoumen Sugari

An extremely popular ramen shop in Kyoto, Wajouryoumen Sugari specializes in wagyu motsu ramen. 

Their main location’s line was way too long when we went, so we went to their second, lesser-known and somewhat hidden in plain sight second location. It’s in a kurazukuri building, or old Japanese warehouse, and its interior was redesigned in a modern, minimalistic way. The design, utensils and condiments drawer, the peaceful music playing in the background… everything made for an elevated ramen experience.

It was delicious, not too heavy at all, yet tasty and well balanced. 

https://www.sugari.net/ [J]
MAP

 

Kouroan

Having a matcha experience in Kyoto is great since the city is known for it. Kouroan is a good place for matcha, and its name roughly translates to a small house where you can have tea.

There are several semi-private to private rooms in the house, both tatami-floored ones and a lounge-ike one with chairs. The tea house is located in a temple area with several temples located there, and is just really peaceful.

We ordered a set that included a few different Japanese sweets and a matcha cake. The best part was that it was basically all-you-can drink, so after the first round, we were able to make our own matcha. They also have a cute cat that roams the area.

https://kouroan.com/
MAP

 

Tofu Matsugae

Kyoto is famous for tofu, and conveniently located in Arashiyama is Tofu Matsugae.

Their in a secluded Japanese garden-like area alongside the Katsura River, and their lunch consists of several small dishes. A couple of my favorites were the yuba, or tofu skin, and tempura. Everything is centered around yudofu, or tofu hot pot, which is a Kyoto dish. The one here had regular tofu and a matcha one which was pretty interesting.

https://yoshimura-gr.com/matsugae/ [J]
MAP

 

Have you been to any of these? If not, put them on your list for the next time you visit. Feel free to share this with someone as well.


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Uji, Kyoto

Just outside of central Kyoto, Uji is great for Japanese sights and matcha.

  • Uji is a small area just to the south of central Kyoto

  • It is most known for green tea

  • Byodoin Temple is one of the famous sights located there


Uji is a small city located within the Kyoto administrative district. It’s just to the south of central Kyoto and nearby other popular destinations like Nara and Osaka.

How to get there

There are two train stations in Uji, but if you’re coming from Kyoto, JR Uji Station may be the easier option. The Nara Line goes from Kyoto Station, and that’s what we used when visiting.

About Uji

Uji is most known for its green tea. Kyoto is said to be the original place where tea cultivation took place in Japan, and Uji became famous for having superior quality tea.

It’s still this way today, and there are a few famous tea shops to check out, one which I’ve listed below on this page.

Unless you’re staying in Uji, I consider it a day trip. I’ve been to Uji twice and I’ll introduce some of the things I’ve done and had to eat.

I also created a video where we visit Uji and other places in Kyoto:

What we did

Byodoin Temple

One of the nicer temples to visit when traveling in Kyoto. Byodoin Temple sits in the middle of a garden area, not too far from JR Uji Station and a lot of main attractions.

In the fall, it’s especially nice with the vibrant leaves located all around the temple grounds. There’s also a museum here as well.

https://www.byodoin.or.jp/
MAP

 

Cormorant Fishing

Along the Uji River, near Byodoin Temple, is where a display of cormorant fishing takes place.

It’s known as a summer event that dates back to the Heian era (794-1185), and fishermen light up a torch and use the birds to retrieve fish.

Between July and September, visitors can sit on wooden boats and watch the fishermen and cormorants go to work. When I went with my family, there was even a boat with a maiko on board.

 

I’ve also had a good lunch and matcha experience in Uji that I recommend.


Nikuya Kurokawa

Simple but so delicious. Nikuya Kurokawa is an extremely popular restaurant that specializes in wagyu beef donburi’s (over rice).

We got their regular wagyu beef donburi and one that was mixed together with takuan, which is a type of Japanese pickles. Both came with an egg yolk that you can put on top and a soup.

You need to go really early as there was already a line 30 minutes before opening, and be prepared with cash. It was worth it, though, this meal was very, very good.

MAP

 

Nakamura Tokichi

When in Uji, you have to get matcha since it’s known for it. Nakamura Tokichi began here in 1854 and has had several generations of owners.

We made a reservation for their tea room, where we could sit on tatami mats, sip matcha and eat namacha, which is a dessert that comes in a bamboo cup. In it are sweets such as anko (red bean), matcha jelly, mochi and matcha ice cream.

There’s also a gift shop that has a range of matcha powder at different levels, matcha baked goods, hojicha (roasted green tea) and more. Definitely a stop to be made when in Uji.

https://www.tokichi.jp/
MAP


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Kyoto: Fall Spots

Japan’s fall colors are absolutely beautiful, and Kyoto is one of the best places to go for them.

The best season to see Kyoto? Fall, especially if the leaves are at their peak.

I’ve been fortunate enough to visit Kyoto during this season a few times and it’s absolutely amazing. Japan’s cherry blossoms tend to get all the attention, but being amongst the colorful leaves in late November is one of Japan’s most beautiful, and probably underrated, sights to see.

Eikan-do Zenrin-ji

Fall leaves at Eikan-do Zenrin-ji

Basically, it’s like being surrounded by a painting. Describing the fall leaves around Eikan-do Zenrin-ji as beautiful is an understatement. The breathtaking rainbow color combination is really vibrant and such an incredible sight to see.

I’ve seen the leaves here in both day and night, and both times they blew me away. It gets pretty crowded, understandably so, but it’s completely worth the wait and the cost of about 600 yen to enter.

The line at night starts on its northern, Shogaku-in Temple side for the night viewing. We waited for about a 1-1.5 hours which was a small price to pay for this incredible sight.

Fall leaves at Eikan-do Zenrin-ji at night
 

Kiyomize-dera

Kiyomizudera’s fall leaves illuminated at night - [BUY PRINT - Enter KYOTOFALL for 10% off]

Kiyomizudera’s fall leaves illuminated at night

Kiyomizu-dera’s fall leaves are beautiful in the daytime, but their biggest impact is at night.

A line forms down Matsubara-dori street [MAP], one of the central streets that lead up to the temple’s entrance. It can get pretty long but it moves pretty quickly. We lined up at around 6PM and were in around 30 minutes later. It’s not free but will only cost a few hundred yen.

The areas around the main stage of Kiyomizu-dera become an impressive orange, with a tunnel of the colorful fall foliage covering the walk along the path after it. Towards the end, bright red leaves frame the tower and also reflects over a small lake.

This light up is completely worth it and a must for anyone in Kyoto during that time.

Fall leaves at Kiyomizudera in Kyoto- [BUY PRINT - Enter KYOTOFALL for 10% off]

Fall leaves at Kiyomizudera in Kyoto

 

Kitano Tenmangu

Fall leaves at Kitano Tenmangu in Kyoto

One of the more underrated shrines in Kyoto for sightseeing is Kitano Tenman-gu. Two reasons: One, their Tenjin-san flea market - which I wrote a little about here - that extends for blocks and blocks on the 25th of each month, and two, their maple tree garden in the fall that extends around the temple itself.

They have an illuminated night event which I haven’t seen, but their daytime views are nothing to overlook. Colorful walks throughout their pretty extensive garden, plus some green tea and Japanese snacks to go along with it. It’s also less crowded as other popular areas which is a huge plus.

Fall leaves over a canal near Kitano Tenmangu in Kyoto
 

Arashiyama

Fall leaves on the Arashiyama riverside in Kyoto

The bamboo forest is what Arashiyama is most known for but there are some nice fall colors that can be seen as well, especially on the mountainside next to the river. There’s no entrance fee or anything, just walk the riverside and enjoy the view.

The Hozugawa-kudari boat ride is also a good option as it’s a traditional boat ride down the river where more fall foliage can be seen. If you’re interested, I talked a little bit about the ride here.

MAP

 

Tokufu-ji

The fall leaves near Tsutenkyo Bridge at Tokufu-ji in Kyoto

The view from Tsutenkyo Bridge, a 100 meter long landscape of lush, fall colors is one of the more popular sights in the city during this season.

While we only made it to Tokufu-ji just before their early closing at 4:30PM, I was able to catch a glimpse of the bridge’s view. It’s definitely something to see as the bridge puts your view just above the treetops..

http://www.tofukuji.jp
MAP

 

Kinkaku-ji

Fall leaves in the gardens at Kinkakuji temple in Kyoto

It’s the golden pavilion that attracts everyone to Kinkaku-ji, but fall is an especially nice season to visit because there are pretty fall colors to be seen.

There’s a bunch around the temple’s grounds with most of them on the opposite side of the pavilion where everyone stands to take photos. There are also nice, colorful combinations that appear along the path after the golden pavilion area.

http://www.shokoku-ji.jp [J]
MAP

 

Byodoin Temple

One of the nicer temples to visit when traveling in Kyoto. Byodoin Temple sits in the middle of a garden area in the Uji area, and visitors take a walk that loops around the grounds.

https://www.byodoin.or.jp/
MAP

Even if you can’t see all of them, you won’t go wrong with picking any of these places. There’s a lot more in Kyoto as well, but out of the ones that I’ve seen personally, I enjoyed these the most.

There’s not a lot that can rival the cherry blossoms in Japan, but their fall leaves just might.


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Kyoto: Beyond the Shrines

There's a different side of Kyoto that goes beyond the temples and shrines, and they are worth experiencing.

Kyoto is absolutely loaded with traditional Japanese sights to see, especially in the temples and shrines category. Most of us want to explore other things as well, however, and Kyoto definitely has a lot more to explore. 

I've traveled to Kyoto several times, seeing it in 3 out of the 4 seasons, and it's been a beautiful experience each time. If you're looking for temples and shrines, check out some of my favorites here.

If you're looking for other things in Kyoto, here are some sights that I'd recommend:

Arashiyama

Arashiyama bamboo grove - [BUY PRINT]

Arashiyama bamboo grove - [BUY PRINT]

The bamboo grove in Arashiyama is an incredible experience. It's so tranquil (pray that there aren't too many tourists) to be surrounded by these enormous bamboo stalks reaching to the sky.

It's a short walk from Saga Arashiyama train station, and after walking through the grove, you can follow the path back to the river and the main town of Arashiyama. 

The town in Arashiyama has lots of different Japanese restaurants and craft stores that sell everything from handmade trinkets to umbrellas that display designs when wet.

One of the main attractions is Arashiyama station where lanterns mimicking Japanese fabric design lead you on a path around the train platform. Wait for the sun to go down and take a walk through it.

Lanterns at Arashiyama train station

Lanterns at Arashiyama train station

 

Hozugawa-kudari Boat Ride

Boat captains on the Hozugawa-kudari boat ride to Arashiyama, Kyoto

The Hozugawa-kudari boat ride is a 16 km boat ride that ends up in Arashiyama.

This boat ride has been around for a long time where skilled boaters would navigate wooden boats down the river while avoiding the numerous rocks.

The journey begins after a short walk from JR Kameoka station and lasts for roughly a couple of hours. I went with my parents in the fall, and the waters were quite calm the entire way down. Near the end, other boats come by selling traditional Japanese snacks such as dango (rice cake balls) and smoked squid. 

If you ride one of the morning boats, you can check out other parts of Arashiyama for the rest of the day.

Boat captains on the Hozugawa-kudari boat ride to Arashiyama, Kyoto
 

Nijō Castle

Nijo castle in Kyoto at night

Nijō-jō, or Nijō Castle, isn't what you'd expect a castle to look like. The castle itself resembles more of a building at a temple or shrine, and isn't outlandish or decorated any more than other sights around town.

There's a nice garden to take a walk in but perhaps the most famous and well known attraction is inside. The "nightingale floors" make a chirpy sound when walked on, a form of security in the old times meant to protect from being creeped up on.

Gardens at Nijo Castle in Kyoto

http://www2.city.kyoto.lg.jp [J] [PDF]

 

Cormorant fishing in Uji

Comorant fishing in Uji, Kyoto

Uji is a short train ride from Kyoto Station and is known to have good matcha.

In the evening, fishermen head out in the river with a burning bucket and some comorant birds tied up. These birds dive for fish, and before they can swallow it, the fishermen squeeze it out of the bird's neck.

While you can see it from the riverside, the boat tours bring you a lot closer to the experience. 

http://www.kyototourism.org/en/sightseeing-info/58.html

 

Nishiki Market

Japanese pickles for sale

Nishiki Market [J] is a covered alley that sells all sorts of Japanese food items. Pickles, candies, rice, fish, you name it.

It's centrally located, parallel to Shijō-dōri Street and west of Teramachi street, and is a cool old-fashioned Japanese market type of experience.

http://www.kyoto-nishiki.or.jp [J]

 

Kitano Flea Market

Kitano flea market in Kyoto

This flea market is one of many in Kyoto, but it's huge. It happens only on the 25th of each month, however, and is at the Kitano Tenman-gu shrine.

The walk around the shrine is pretty and the flea market spans the streets of the surrounding area. You can find everything from antiques to kimonos to old collectables, and there are stands selling yakitori meat skewers and other food items as well.

Bargaining is normal here and you can really find good deals. If you're lucky, you can find the knife-maker selling Japanese pairs of knives for US$40 or less.

Fall leaves around Kitano tenmangu shrine in Kyoto
 

Nanzen-ji

Fall leaves at Nanzen-ji temple in Kyoto

Ok, so Nanzen-ji actually a temple. There's actually a lot to see and definitely check it out, but one of my favorite things about Nanzen-ji is the Shirokaku Aqueduct which carries water from Lake Biwa. Its western-looking, red brick architecture seems out of place, but it's quite beautiful. Heading up to the top makes for a nice walk.

The aquaduct at Nanzen-ji temple in Kyoto
 

If you're stopping for food, make sure to eat tofu, yuba (tofu skin) and drink matcha, as Kyoto is known for both. There's many places to choose from but I do have a recommendation.

Yachiyo

Yachiyo is a ryokan hotel, but they have a restaurant as well. It specializes in tofu, so the there's a lot of that along with the main course is yudofu (tofu hot pot). It's an excellent Japanese "washoku" meal experience, my family and I are repeat customers.

http://kyoto-nanzenji-yachiyo.jp/ [J]
Reservations [
J]


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Kyoto: Temples & Shrines

Good at any time of year, Kyoto is best known for its temples and shrines. Here are some to definitely see.

Despite having been to Kyoto several times, it has never gotten old. For a foreign traveler, it represents "Japan," as the former capital is full of historic temples and shrines. 

Fall is the ideal season - and my favorite - to travel to Kyoto, especially if the fall leaves are peak in color. Seeing the temples and shrines at that time of year surrounded by the reds, oranges and yellows is one of the most beautiful sights in the country. 

There are so many historic sights to see in Kyoto that you can rule out seeing them all. Not going to happen. But here are some must sees temples and shrines:

Kinkaku-ji

Kinkakuji temple in Kyoto

Kinkaku-ji, the famous "Golden Pavilion," sits quietly surrounded by water and the area around it has the same vibe as well (besides the photo area in front of it). Even with the flood of tourists storming here, it sill manages to be a pretty peaceful place.

Fall leaves in the gardens at Kinkakuji temple in Kyoto

http://www.shokoku-ji.jp [J]

 

Kiyomizu-dera

Fall leaves at Kiyomizudera in Kyoto - [BUY PRINT - Enter KYOTOFALL for 10% off]

Fall leaves at Kiyomizudera in Kyoto

Kiyomizu-dera sits on top a hill surrounded by Japanese confectionary shops, restaurants and crafts. The temple's main hall is known for it being only built from wood.

Being one of the more popular attractions in the city, it gets quite crowded. Towards the end of the walk through, there are three waterfalls that you can drink from, each meant to help you in a different area of life: Health, longevity and success in studies.

During the fall, the temple does a light-up at night. The line goes quite a ways down the street but if the leaves are at peak, make sure you suck it up and wait. It's absolutely worth it.

Fall leaves at Kiyomizudera in Kyoto - [BUY PRINT - Enter KYOTOFALL for 10% off]

Fall leaves at Kiyomizudera in Kyoto

 

Fushimi-inari

Path at Fushimi Inari shrine in Kyoto

Fushimi-inari Taisha. This shrine's tunnel of red gates has become one of the iconic views of Japan in recent years.

It's a 15-minute train ride from Kyoto Station, and is right next to Inari Station. The afternoon is the best time to visit since the light shines through the gates to create a beautiful effect.

The tunnel of gates go up a long ways and while it's a good hike, it's not necessary to go all the way up.

The walk at Fushimi Inari shrine in Kyoto
 

Heian-jingu

Heian shrine in Kyoto

Heian-jingu [J] stands out due to it's white and orange design. You can see it right when you enter, but make sure you take a walk in the garden as well.

Nearby is the Philosopher's Walk, a path named after a philosopher, Kintaro Nishida, and full of sights that can invoke deep thoughts. Take a walk through the path when you're done with the shrine.

Landscape at Heian shrine in Kyoto

http://www.heianjingu.or.jp [J]

 

Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji

Fall leaves at Eikan-do Zenrin-ji

While there is a temple, Eikan-dō Zenrin-ji is most known for its natural surroundings. It's most beautiful in the fall, and during the peak period, "beautiful" is an understatement. The variety of colors and their vibrance are incredible.

There are a more temples and shrines to see in Kyoto, and some may enjoy different ones from this list. None will disappoint. Be sure to check out other sights to see in Kyoto as well if you're in town. 

http://www.eikando.or.jp

Fall leaves at Eikan-do Zenrin-ji at night

Fall leaves at Eikan-do Zenrin-ji at night


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