Yokohama
A look at Japan’s port city of Yokohama, the country’s second largest city that’s both historically significant and futuristic.
Yokohama is the 2nd largest city in Japan, located just south of Tokyo
Known as a port city, it was one of the first ports to open to foreign trade in Japan
It is popular for its Chinatown and its seaside district, Minato Mirai
Neighboring Tokyo, the two largest cities in Japan cover so much area that they almost blend together.
Yokohama is home to 3.7 million people and is the capital of Kanagawa prefecture, which is home to other popular destinations like the hot spring resort town of Hakone and beachside area of Kamakura.
It’s a popular place to visit, and was one of my destinations when I first visited Japan as an adult.
How to get there
By train, Yokohama is easily accessible from Tokyo and generally takes 1 to 1.5 hours. The Toyoko Line from Shibuya Station is a direct route along with the Fukutoshin Line from Omotesando Station.
A reflection of the Yokohama skyline
About Yokohama
Yokohama is a photogenic city, especially in the main, Minato Mirai seaside area, where tradition and modernity come together.
It has a hint of an international feel to it due to its storied history. Japan had its borders closed off for some time, and it became an early port to open its doors to international trade. This led to communities being built for Western residents as well as Chinese, amongst others.
Both foreign tourists and Japanese alike visit Yokohama for the variety of entertainment that it offers. The city has popular wedding venues as well due to the existence of both traditional, Western-style buildings and modern ones, along with seaside views.
Being a part of the agency team that helped Yokohama City start up and run its municipal Instagram account as well as conduct related events overseas, I’ve been fortunate to able to get to know the city quite a bit.
Of course I can’t cover everything, but here are a few highlights that I’d recommend someone visiting.
Yokohama Chinatown
Yokohama Chinatown is the largest Chinatown in Asia and one of the biggest in the world outside of China itself.
It has an area that extends several blocks, and has around 250 shops and restaurants. It’s one of the most popular destinations for people visiting the city.
Aside from the various places to eat and stores to browse, the area itself is beautiful. The lanterns that are strung up above the streets and alleys illuminate the ground below, and it’s almost like taking a mini trip outside of Japan.
MINATO MIRAI
You could say that all of the top destinations in Yokohama are in the Minato Mirai area.
The in-city theme park Cosmo World [J] is here, historical ships like the Nippon Maru, the recognizable half-moon shaped Intercontinental, and the Landmark Tower [J] that gives you 360-degree views of the city from 69 floors up are all here.
Minato Mirai was purposefully developed to be the commercial center that it is. Its name means “Port of the future” and so far it lives up to it.
Misc. Events
I’ve been fortunate enough to see other events, either privately or through work with Yokohama City.
One of my favorites is Yokohama Sparkling Twilight. This is a fireworks show that happens for two evenings in August, and can be viewed from Yamashita Park. One of reasons why I enjoy it is because while it does get crowded, it’s less crowded than most fireworks festivals in Tokyo and the view is better.
Another event that I’ve been fortunate enough to see is the Pikachu Outbreak! event where a ton of Pikachus take over the city. Unfortunately it seems that this annual event has been cancelled.
I made a video while working a couple days in Yokohama on a creative project in case you want to see more of the city. One of our key stops was the Gundam Factory Yokohama, a temporary exhibition with an amazing Gundam that actually moved.
Menya Katsuji
Down a side street near Yokohama Stadium and Kannai Station is Menya Katsuji, a hole-in-the-wall type of ramen shop.
They specialize in beef broth ramen, one of the more uncommon broth types. The broth itself is light, but it’s full of flavor and has a really nice spicy kick to it.
Topped with ingredients like char siu, a soft boiled egg, nori as well as some others, it has a taste that is unique and unlike any other I’ve had in Japan.
It’s delicious and I definitely recommend it.
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Kadokawa Culture Museum
A day trip to Kadokawa Musashino Museum, a modern museum/library designed by Kengo Kuma.
Located in Saitama Prefecture, the Kadokawa Culture Museum is less than an hour from Tokyo
Designed by Kengo Kuma, it’s both a library and museum
Quite an unexpected sight. You walk through a typical residential neighborhood and then boom - a giant space rock castle type of thing appears.
The Kadokawa Culture Museum (also known as Kadokawa Musashino Museum) was designed by Kengo Kuma, the architect who did the Tokyo Olympic Stadium amongst a lot of other notable buildings.
Enter the rock and it’s a fully functional, 5-story museum and library.
HOW TO GET THERE
The Kadokawa Culture Museum is located in Higashi-Tokorozawa, and is about a 10 minute walk from the station. From Ikebukuro Station in Tokyo, it’s about a 40-minute trip with one transfer.
Kadokawa Culture Museum
The Bookshelf Theater in the library.
The Bookshelf Theater is one of the more notable parts of the museum. It’s two-stories high and they put on an impressive projection mapping show that incorporates the books on the shelf.
The library itself is modern with stools and chairs to sit in as you browse, and incorporating video at times in order to tell the story that’s in the books on the shelf.
Personally, I found it to be a good take on what libraries should do in order to modernize and stay relevant.
There are also special exhibitions and art galleries to browse through in the building.
Tickets grant you access to different parts of the museum. You can get them on their website.
Musashino Reiwa Shrine
Musashino Reiwa Shrine torii gate tunnel
One of the other notable sights in this this cultural complex is the Musashino Reiwa Shrine.
It represents Reiwa, which is the current period on the Japanese calendar, so everything is done in a very futuristic way. From the minimalistic water fountains, to the sharp-edged torii gate tunnel, to the illuminated main torii gate, it’s interesting to see a modern take on Japanese shrines.
Musashino Reiwa Shrine
Check out my video of my day trip here and to Kawagoe.
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Kawagoe
A day trip to Kawagoe, where its Warehouse District still retains the look of the Edo Period.
Located in Saitama Prefecture, Kawagoe is less than an hour from Tokyo
The Warehouse District has retained the look of the old Edo Period
Local delicacies include unagi (broiled eel) and sweet potato - see bottom
When most think about immersing themselves in “old Japan”, they think about places like Kyoto or Kanazawa, maybe an onsen town. Kawagoe is another area that provides that experience.
We took a day trip here to check out their Warehouse District.
I made a video of the trip in case you’re interested.
How to get there
Kawagoe is located in Saitama Prefecture, which neighbors Tokyo, so it’s quite accessible. An easy way to get there, and the route we took, was catching the Fukutoshin train from Meiji-jingumae Station in Harajuku.
It arrives at Kawagoe Station in about 50 minutes. Some trains on this route require you to transfer at Ikebukuro Station, but some are direct.
Kawagoe is visually stunning. The city was said to be big for trade during the Edo Period, which was between 1603-1867. Many merchants became wealthy and built their warehouses and shops in the Kurazukuri style.
“Edo” was what Tokyo used to be called, and because a lot of these old warehouse buildings in the central area survived and are largely unchanged, the area became known as “Koedo”, or Little Edo.
Where we went
Kurazukuri Street
Kurazukuri Street in Kawagoe’s Warehouse District
Kurazukuri Street refers to the style in which the buildings are built in, and is the central part of the city’s Warehouse District.
It’s amazing to see these buildings lined up, spanning the distance, and knowing they’re authentically real.
Many of them are selling Japanese goods, such as knives, or a light grab-and-go type of snack. A lot of those snacks are based around sweet potato, something Kawagoe is known for.
What is unfortunate about this area, though, is that car traffic isn’t blocked off. While the neighborhood and buildings transport you back in time, the constant flow of cars on the road kind of take you out of it.
The Starbucks in the Kawagoe Warehouse District blends well into the neighborhood
Taisho-roman Street
Taisho-Roman Street
Taisho Roman Street is a walking street lined with buildings that reflect the Taisho Period between 1912-1926.
It’s just a short walking distance from both the Warehouse District and Kawagoe Station, and there are a bunch of shops selling snacks and sweets, as well as cafes such as the coffee shop pictured above.
Kashiya Yokocho (Candy Alley)
Kashiya Yokocho (Candy Alley) in Kawagoe’s Warehouse District
Kashiya Yokocho is a short, L-shaped walking alley of shops selling candies and snacks. Some are traditional snacks, while others are more modern and reflect those you would find at festivals, such as chocolate-dipped bananas.
Kawagoe Hikawa Shrine
Tunnel of Ema wooden prayer plaques at Kawagoe Hikawa Shrine
Said to be around 1,500 years old, Kawagoe Hikawa Shrine is a Shinto shrine where five deities are enshrined. It’s known for helping with matchmaking and relationships.
During the summer, a lot of fuurin, or glass wind chimes are set up around the shrine’s grounds, and they provide a relaxing sound whenever the wind blows.
While that was nice to experience, we unfortunately weren’t able to see the cherry blossoms in the Shingashi River behind the shrine, which is really popular in the spring.
We visited in August which I don’t really recommend because it was hot… extremely hot. It does, however, mean that unagi (broiled eel) is in season, a dish that Kawagoe is known for.
Where we ate
Ogatou
Unagi (broiled eel) is one of Kawagoe’s specialty foods, and Ogatou is one of several restaurants in the area with high reviews.
The shop is located in an old building that matches the environment, and has been around since 1918. The menu is simple, just pick how you want your unagi served.
I decided to get the Unaju Matsu, which is the largest size with 2 slices on top of rice and another slice in the middle of the rice below. Fluffy, moist, and tasty, especially with the slight taste of char from the fire.
Aburi Coffee
A homey coffee shop just off the main road. Aburi Coffee gets its name from the French word abri, which means shelter, and they aim to provide a shelter for people to retreat to and relax.
They accomplish this very well and provide some delicious iced coffee. You know you’re in the right place when you walk in and there are huge Yama Glass drippers that look like they’re from a science lab slow dripping future cups of coffee.
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Kusatsu Onsen
Ranked as one of the top onsen areas in Japan, Kusatsu Onsen is a quaint town to relax in with only hot springs on your mind.
Kusatsu Onsen is a hot spring town in Gunma prefecture
Amongst onsen areas in Japan, it consistently ranks in the top 3
It is said to offer the most natural hot spring water of any onsen area in Japan
A small town for onsen hot spring lovers. Kusatsu Onsen is one of the premier hot spring areas in Japan, and the town is even centered around it.
Located in Gunma prefecture, it’s a trip of about 3-4 hours from Tokyo by car/bus.
How to get there
I went by car, and it’s the easiest way to get to Kusatsu Onsen. There are no train stations in the area. From Tokyo, catching a Kosoku Bus from Shinjuku or Tokyo Station is a decent option.
About Kusatsu Onsen
The Kusatsu Onsen town area is small, with a little more than 6,000 residents. It’s a popular destination to drive to, particularly for Japanese residents living in nearby prefectures.
One of the aspects that makes Kusatsu Onsen unique is, well, its water. There are 6 hot spring sources in the area: Yubatake, Shirahata, Bandaiko, Sainokawara, Nigawa, and Jizo.
This makes the area have the largest amount of naturally heated spring water out of any area in Japan.
The main town area is built around the Yubatake spring. Its wooden troughs are meant to naturally cool down the piping hot water, and filter and collect “yunohana” hot spring mineral deposits which can be sold later.
A lot of the buildings in the area are distinctly Japanese. The 7-11 in the main area made their signs brown and white, which is what convenient stores and chains do when they set up a location in these cultural areas.
Where we stayed
There are many Japanese-style ryokans and hotels to choose from. We stayed at the Matsunoi, an older, more traditional, family-run ryokan with dinner and breakfast included.
Rooms were Japanese-style with tatami flooring. Guests sleep on futons laid out, and the shared natural onsen bath is downstairs.
The ryokan overall had friendly service and is a short 5-minute walk from the main, Yubatake area. At its price point of roughly USD $130/person/night with the upgraded local Wagyu “Joshugyu” dinner, it’s a pretty good deal.
What we did
As with most onsen trips, the main focus is relaxing in the onsen. On the 2-day, 1-night stay, I went down to the bath around 3 times.
While the bath at the Matsunoi Ryokan wasn’t luxurious and didn’t have a view, the steady flow of hot spring water was actually quite relaxing. The water itself had a silky feel to it, leaving your skin feeling nice and smooth.
Yubatake
Yubatake in the daytime at Kusatsu Onsen.
Basically being what the Kusatsu Onsen town is built around, it’s hard to miss Yubatake.
We came here both in the evening and in the daytime, and they’re both quite photogenic different views. In the evenings, the area is lit up and the illuminated clouds of steam make for nice pictures. That is probably one of the reasons why many younger Japanese flock here.
In the area, you can catch a show of people doing yumomi, a method of swishing the water to a chant in order to cool it down.
Yubatake in the evening at Kusatsu Onsen.
Sainokawa Park
Sainokawa Park at Kusatsu Onsen
On the way to Sainokawa Open-Air Bath (didn’t get to go) is a nice walk along a rocky riverbed of flowing, hot spring water.
We went in the fall, so the colorful leaves created a beautiful landscape to be in. You can see the steam rising from the water all the way up.
With only one night in the area, we were barely able to experience what Kusatsu Onsen actually has to offer. But we were able to kick back and relax.
That’s the point of onsen trips after all!
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Hakone: Hotel de Yama
A Hakone stay at Lake Ashi with at Hotel de Yama, overlooking the Hakone Azalea Fair.
Hakone’s Hotel de Yama with its garden in full bloom
Quite possibly the best location you could stay at in Hakone.
Hotel de Yama, also known as Yama no Hotel, is a 4-star resort located right on Hakone’s Lake Ashi.
It began as a vacation home for Koyata Iwasaki, nephew of Yataro Iwasaki, the founder of Mitsubishi. It is designed in a Western style and has catered to both domestic and international guests since 1948, just as was desired by Iwasaki.
HOW TO GET THERE
The easiest way to get to Hakone is via the Odakyu Romance Car express train, a 1 hour 15 minute ride from Shinjuku station.
Once arriving at Hakone-Yumoto station, the last stop, there are a couple of options. The easiest way is catching a bus from across the station that goes to the Motohakone area. From Motohakone, there are shuttles to Hotel de Yama.
Entrance to Hotel de Yama
Lobby area
We stayed here for a weekend in Hakone in May, when the Azalea and Rhododendron flowers are in bloom for the Hakone Azalea Fair. The flowers, 800 JPY (free for guests), are a big attraction draws a pretty decent crowd.
Hakone Azalea Fair
Hotel de Yama is unlike a lot of the other resorts in Hakone. Due to it being a Western style resort, it’s not a typical ryokan and more like a full-service hotel that you’re used to.
We stayed in a Standard Type room, a 30㎡ room with two full-size beds and a view of the garden and Lake Ashi. Prices vary depending on the room and season but will typically start at around $300/night.
Room with two double beds
View of Lake Ashi and the garden from the room
The resort, of course, has an onsen hot spring as well. One thing to keep in mind though, is that the male onsen is not as good as the female onsen. While females have an outdoor area with a view of the surrounding forest, males have high walls lining the perimeter of their bath and there’s no view.
In addition to the hot springs, Hotel de Yama also has a spa, karaoke room and banquet hall.
There are a few places to eat and drink as well. Salon de thé Rosage, a French cafe, Vert Bois, which specializes in French cuisine, the Lounge Bar for drinks, and Tsutsuji no Chaya, a Japanese kaiseki restaurant. We stayed with the Western theme for our meals.
Salon de thé Rosage
Chocolate cake with tea at Salon de thé Rosage
Salon de thé Rosage is separated from the main Hotel de Yama building and is right on Lake Ashi. They have both inside and outdoor seating.
The cafe has a cake set for 1,350 JPY that lets you pick from 4 different options - mont blanc, orange mousse, strawberry shortcake, chocolate cake - and pair it with tea.
VERT BOIS
Dinner at Vert Bois was a 6-course French meal by Chef Kiyotoshi Yusa. It also had a pretty nice list of wines to choose from - both by the bottle or in 1-3 glass sets.
Breakfast was also at Vert Bois and featured eggs (sunnyside up or omelet), salad, miso bacon, an original juice, pineapple, coffee/tea and bread.
Breakfast at Vert Bois
Checkout is at 12PM which gives you a lot of time to hit up the onsen one last time and relax in one of the massage chairs located in the dressing room.
Maybe the biggest benefit for people like me who enjoy taking photos is being close to Hakone Shrine. From the hotel, it’s easy really easy to walk on over to the picturesque torii gate before the massive crowd does (by 8:30AM). Nice hotel, fantastic location.
Hakone Shrine, just a short walk from Hotel de Yama
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Hakone: Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara
A peaceful Hakone getaway at the Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara, a luxurious boutique ryokan with private onsen hot spings.
Private onsen tub at Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara in Hakone
A blissful getaway where the day is spent silently soaking in a private onsen hot spring looking out at the view.
Hoshino Resorts is one of the most well known and sought after luxury hot spring and resort ryokan chains in Japan. I stayed at their KAI Kinugawa resort while visiting Nikko, so I knew that their boutique KAI line provides for a very relaxing weekend.
We stayed for a night at their KAI Sengokuhara location, which opened in 2018, this time when we stayed for a weekend in Hakone.
Sengokuhara
HOW TO GET THERE
We took the Odakyu Romance Car to Hakone from Shinjuku station, a popular way to get to Hakone besides driving. From there, the fastest route is catch a bus to the Daigatake stop in Sengokuhara [MAP], which is right in front of Family Mart. Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara Is located right up the hill next to it.
As soon as you enter the Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara‘s premises, a staff member approaches you to greet you and guide you up to the lobby. A long escalator takes you up to the lobby area, where you check-in and schedule your meals and any activities.
Lobby area with art room
This Hoshino Resorts KAI location is focused on art, so they have an optional activity that lets participating guests color a long cloth with Japanese scenes, something you do after dinner and then take home with you as a souvenir. The room keys also stay on the art theme, with keychains that have nicely displayed, dried, Japanese flowers.
We stayed in the Japanese-style Suite with Outdoor Bath RB2, a spacious room of just about 63㎡～70㎡ big with 2 double beds, a living room, detached desk space, balcony and private onsen bath outside. It was just under $400.
Living room area with a huge L-shaped sofa and Okinawan tatami mat flooring
The bed area is attached to the living room and features gorgeous lighting accents
Spacious balcony area with furniture for two
The bathroom is roomy and well designed
Desk area with a view looking outside at Sengokuhara
The Hot Spring
The water that flows through Japanese onsen hot springs vary and depend on where the water is coming from. Each has a slightly different combination of minerals carrying different benefits to the skin and body.
Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara‘s onsen water is from the Owakudani volcanic valley and is slightly milky white in color. They report that their water has “acid,” calcium, sulfur and chloride.
The “acid” helps with chronic dermatitis, sulfur with chronic dermatitis and circulation, and the chloride salts coat the body like a veil, warming and moisturizing the skin. It did leave my skin feeling pretty smooth indeed.
Public indoor onsen bath area
Smaller outdoor public onsen area
The lounge area by the public onsen baths has free popsicles, juice and tea
Dining
Like most ryokan stays, Japanese kaiseki meals are included. They’re served in the dining hall, one that is beautifully designed with Japanese aesthetics and allowing each party to have a private room.
Shokujidokoro (dining hall)
Dinner had several courses, each presented very nicely and was equally delicious.
Breakfast was just as impressive and a great meal to start off the next day.
Breakfast featuring fish and tonjiru (pork borth miso soup)
The Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara lives up to its high reviews as an elegant onsen retreat. It’s perfectly set up so that you see as few people as possible and the rooms themselves were just about silent. I definitely recommend this resort for anyone looking for a luxurious Japanese getaway.
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Mt Takao New Year’s Sunrise
Watching the first sunrise of the new year from atop a mountain in Japan.
To celebrate New Years in Japan, dance parties are uncommon and fireworks are almost non-existent. It’s a lot of stay-at-home eating traditional foods and drinking, and shrine visiting. I made a video about what New Years is like in Japan.
Another popular outdoor activity though, is to hike up a mountain and watch the first sunrise of the new year. One of the popular mountains to do that from near Tokyo is Mt Takao.
I did this once to welcome the New Year. It was just after midnight, January 1st, 2018.
HOW TO GET THERE
The station that most get their start at is Takaosanguchi [MAP] which is on the end of the Keio line. There are 2 ways up the mountain, hike it or catch a tram. A short walk from Takaosanguchi station is Kiyotaki station [MAP] where you can catch the tram up to Takaosan station up Mt Takao.
We took the tram. Even after getting off at Takaosan station, there’s still waking to do before getting to a point with a view of the sunrise.
Along the way, there’s Yaukuou-in shrine [MAP] to stop at either to pray or buy souvenirs and snacks from.
Despite getting to the viewing area around 2:30 AM or so, the place was packed with Japanese and foreigners alike. Everyone has a tiny space to sit and wait in until the sunrise which happens just before 7AM. It’s quite a long time to sit in one place and wait in the cold, so make sure you bundle up…very well. I was freezing.
After the sun’s up, people begin making their way down the mountain.
There’s a trail that leads down to the two modes of transport. The tram from Takaosan station is one of them. The other is catching chairlifts from Mt Takao Echo Lift Sancho station [MAP] which is just a little bit further. We took the latter because it seemed faster and basically just more fun.
The chairlift brings you next to the Kiyotaki tram station, and from there you can walk to Takaosanguchi station and catch the Keio line back into Tokyo.
It was the first time for me to something like this for New Year’s as I typically go to a party with friends. And while it won’t become a normal thing for me, it was a good experience watching the January 1st sun break over the horizon.
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Nikko: Hoshino Resorts KAI Kinugawa
A great night in Nikko at Hoshino Resorts KAI Kinugawa.
The Kinugawa River near Hoshino Resorts KAI Kawaji
The entrance to the resort was a private tram lifting us up a hillside.
Hoshino Resorts is one of the most well known and sought after hot spring and resort ryokan chains in Japan. We stayed for a night at their KAI Kinugawa location, which is part of their KAI line, when we visited Nikko for a weekend.
The entrance to the resort was very unique. We boarded a small tram that took us up a track along the hillside. The staff greeted us at the top where we entered the tranquil resort grounds.
KAI Kinugawa is beautifully designed and Japanese-styled, and the ryokan rooms border around a garden area in the center.
The rooms are spacious and comfortable, and each has a balcony to the outside. They’re about 40m² each and ranges between $300 to $600 USD per night.
Welcome snacks at Hoshino Resorts KAI Kinugawa
The onsen hot springs are nice and relaxing, and when we went, wasn’t crowded despite the resort typically being quite full. I personally don’t like going into an onsen that’s full of people, and I didn’t have an issues here.
Outside of the onsen is an all-you-can-eat popsicle freezer and a lineup of several bottles of nihonshu, or Japanese sake, free for the taking.
Like all ryokans, Japanese kaiseki meals are included, and it rounds out the ryokan experience. KAI Kinugawa’s definitely didn’t disappoint. Each dish is beautifully presented, cooked to perfection with careful Japanese details, and is filling.
Overall, the experience at KAI Kinugawa was one of the better ryokan experiences that I’ve had in Japan. Not a bad choice when staying over in Nikko.
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Nikko
A weekend trip to Nikko, one of the closest UNESCO World Heritage spots to Tokyo.
Shinkyo Bridge in Nikko
One of the closest UNESCO World Heritage spots to Tokyo, the Nikkō Tōshō-gū shrine, Futarasan Shrine and Rinnō-ji are amongst the most famous sights in Japan.
We stayed the weekend at Hoshino Resorts KAI Kinugawa, a nice ryokan and hot springs by one of Japan’s most well known onsen resort brands.
How to get there
Because Nikkō is relatively close to Tokyo, it’s quite accessible. The fastest way to get to Nikkō by train is to catch the Kegon Limited Express train from Asakusa to Tobu Nikkō station. It takes about 2 hours. There are a couple other train options for that route as well as a Nikko pass for foreign tourists. There’s also the JR Nikkō Limited Express from Shinjuku to Tobu Nikkō station.
Entrance torii gate to the Tosho-gu shrine.
One of the most recognizable sights in Nikkō is the Shinkyo Bridge (pictured at the top) [Map]. Its red, arched shape above clear blue waters and in front of the green mountainside makes for quite a picturesque “Japan” photo.
Across the street are the entrances to the Tōshō-gū shrine area.
Nikko Tosho-gu Shrine
After seeing a lot of shrines around Japan, many of them begin to kind of blend together and look pretty similar. It does for me, at least. I found that Tōshō-gū, however, is not one of those.
Karamon at Nikko Tosho-gu shrine
The shrine, dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu and initially built in 1617, separates itself from others due to its patterned design and color combinations. Reds, greens and blacks are used in intricate details, and abundant amounts of gold really makes the shrine pop.
Inside the shrine itself, there’s a room where everyone gathers for a prayer (be prepared to take your shoes off). While I didn’t quite understand what was going on, a chant was done and it was interesting to experience.
Tōshō-gū is also known for its wood carvings, one of which is the three wise monkeys demonstrating “Hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil.” It’s located just above a building doorway and almost looks a little comical looking. Another famous carving is the “Nemuri-neko” or sleepy cat. It attracts crowds as people line up to walk through the doorway that it’s over, but it probably won’t live up to the hype for the average person who doesn’t know much about it.
Five-story pagoda at Nikkō Tōshō-gū
We spent around an hour or so inside the shrine itself, and another hour or two walking around the shrine grounds and nearby town where we had a Japanese kaiseki lunch featuring food that Nikko is known for (information below). Many of the shops in the area have a lot of history to them, range from antique shops to Japanese confectionary shops, and some of them have quite photogenic signs and storefronts.
The next day, we explored a little bit north of the Tōshō-gū area.
Ryuokyo
Ryūōkyō, known for Ryūōkyō Canyon, is a small hot springs town area.
Nijiminotaki Falls
Ryūōkyō’s natural scenery is something to see. While we weren’t up for any of the long hikes and honestly, didn’t have time to check out much, we were able to see the Nijiminotaki Falls [Map] and hike down to the Kinugawa River below.
The Kinugawa River waters are an amazing clear, greenish blue color. Its shape and the surrounding scenery gave the area its name, Ryūōkyō, with “Ryūō” referencing a dragon.
Nikkō also has good food. Soba, yuba (tofu skin) and even shave ice are some of the foods that the area is known for. While we didn’t get to try the soba, I recommend the yuba and shave ice places that we went to.
Fudan Kaiseki Nagomi chaya
One of the more popular restaurants in Nikkō near Tōshō-gū shrine is Fudan Kaiseki Nagomi Chaya, and they specialize in yuba. We went for a kaiseki yuba lunch course that consisted of about 9 dishes with several of them incorporating either yuba or tofu. It’s a small shop with a Japanese vibe, some of the tables have floor seating, and service is really good. This a great place to stop for some authentic Nikkō specialties.
Ryūōkyō Shokudo
Nikkō’s water is quite clean, and they farm some of it into sheets of ice. Some of those clear sheets are sliced up, shaved and turned into shave ice at shops in the area. The water’s purity means you won’t get brain freeze, according to the staff at Ryūōkyō Shokudo. I’m not sure about that, but for the record, I tried to give myself brain freeze after being told that and failed. Shave ice here was a refreshing stop after hiking back up from the Kinugawa River nearby.
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Kamakura: A Day Trip from Tokyo
A day trip to a big Buddha statue and some historical sights in the seaside neighborhood.
Kamakura is one of the more popular day trips to take when in Tokyo. It’s a seaside area full of historical sights and is pretty easily accessible from the city by train.
How to get there
The way that I’ve gone is by taking the Shonan-Shinjuku line from Shinjuku station to Fujisawa station, then transferring to the local, 2-car Enoden train that stops at all the local sights in town.
![The Enoden train in Kamakura - [BUY PRINT]](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63f8b23b0626755198127ae3/1677512926334-I4EXJ5P58MS018ZI4T2S/kamakura-train-01.jpg)
The Enoden train in Kamakura
Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu
One of Kamakura’s main attractions is Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū, a Shinto shrine that sits atop a hillside on some fairly large grounds.
It’s centrally located near Kamakura station and is the area’s main attraction, in fact the area’s main boulevard leads right up to the entrance.
From there, a long pathway that sometimes is lined with food and game stands - the type that you’d find at Japanese summer festivals - leads up to a courtyard area before a long stairway up to the shrine itself.
I first visited the shrine for hatsumode, or the first shrine trip of the year, which is a ritual for Japanese people. It was just after New Year’s Day and I ended up joining hundreds of others who had the same idea. While the wait wasn’t as bad as I thought it’d be, the crowd was pretty sizable like it is at most major shrines during this time of year. We lined up with everyone else in the courtyard area at the bottom of the stairway, and waited for about half an hour before ushers guided us up.
Just outside the shrine grounds is Komachi Street, a small side street that runs parallel on the west side of the main road leading up to the shrine. It’s a local, walking street full of small shops selling Japanese food and treats, including some amazing matcha ice cream (see below).
Walking up to the shrine on the main road, then coming back down on Komachi Street is a good idea.
Kamakura Daibutsu (The Great Buddha)
Kamakura’s other main attraction is the Kamakura Daibutsu, or the Great Buddha of Kamakura statue. It’s actually a part of the Buddhist Kotoku-in Temple.
The statue is a short walk from Hase station which is on the Enoden line. Shops for tourists seem to slowly be popping up along the route to the temple, but its still quite a residential area.
The statue itself is hard to miss and sits in the center of a courtyard next to the actual temple. The temple doesn’t stand out, so my guess is that most people are like me and only visit the statue without ever actually going into the temple itself.
Hase-dera Temple
Also near Hase station is Hase-dera, another Buddhist temple that dates back to the 8th century.
It’s pretty convenient since it’s just a few blocks in from the main road that connects Hase Station and the Great Buddha. There’s quite a bit to explore too. Its located on a hillside on quite a big area with several buildings, gardens and a museum. There’s also places to shop and eat that have ocean views.
Mini statues beside a walkway at Hase-dera Temple
Ajisai flowers (Hydrangea), popular in late spring/early summer, on the Hase-dera temple grounds
Mini statues lined on a wall at Hase-dera temple
Ocean view from the Hase-dera Temple hillside
Little figures in a cave at Hase-dera
While the Enoden train goes to the main places in Kamakura, it can get really crowded. It’s a local neighborhood at its core and I don’t think they imagined that thousands of tourists would flood their local streets every day. Walking the local area instead of heading back on the train each time is a good idea. There are a lot of small cafes and boutiques popping up here and there to stumble on.
I’ve also been lucky to find some good places to eat.
Kamakura Matsubara-an
Matsubara-an popped up as a good lunch option as it was highly rated and within walking distance from Hase station (it’s closest to Yuigahama station). It’s a soba noodle shop that looks like a converted old Japanese house, making for a great atmosphere. It can get pretty crowded though - we waited between 30-60 minutes for a late lunch. The food is really good - I recommend their sudachi soba, a Japanese citrus soba. Their tempura is also really light and tasty.
Kamakura Cha Cha
Best matcha ice cream? It’s definitely up there. I walked in Kamakura Cha Cha while walking down Komachi street after visiting Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū shrine, and I’m glad I did. It’s a small shop with several types of creamy, rich, matcha ice cream, each with a different level of matcha intensity. It starts at level 1 (light) and goes up to Level 4 and tops out at Level MAX. There’s also hōjicha, a roasted green tea flavor as well. If you’re like me and like dense matcha flavor, go for the level 4 or MAX.
Kohana Sushi
Good quality chirashi sushi. Kohana Sushi is a small, hole-in-the-wall along a road that connects the Hase station area with the Kamakura station area. This is a good road to walk. It’s an older shop with an exterior that blends in with the vintage look of the original neighborhood, the type where most people walking by would probably pay no mind. Inside is a traditional eatery with a bar counter and tables on a tatami mat where you sit on the floor to eat. They’re known for their chirashi sushi which comes in a pair of stacked bowls with the rice on the bottom and an assortment of different kinds of sashimi on the top.
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Koshu, Yamanashi: Grapes and Wine Town
A day trip to Koshu, Yamanashi, known for some of the best grapes in Japan.
A dog, “Dash,”, watching over the vineyard for wild boars
Yamanashi prefecture is located just west of Tokyo and is known for its fruits
Koshu is a small city of about 32,000 and is like the Napa Valley of Japan
Living in Japan, I’ve realized that the country has some of the most delicious fruits. The flavor gap between the average supermarket fruit in the US versus one in Japan can be considerable at times, almost to the point that I feel I was deprived.
One of the juiciest fruits that I’ve had in Japan is grapes, and perhaps the most well known area for grapes is Koshu in Yamanashi prefecture.
Koshu is to the west of Tokyo in Yamanashi prefecture, and is almost fully blanketed with vineyards from mountain to mountain. Unlike other grape and wine areas like Napa, Koshu is quite hilly and full of smaller-sized vineyards. Many of them open roadside stands selling their homegrown grapes while a few others make wine.
How to get there
The best way to get there is by car.
If you go by train, from Shinjuku station in Tokyo, it’s about a 1.5 hour ride on the JR Chuo limited express, Azusa and Kaiji trains. The main stop in the area is Enzan station [MAP], but the closest station to where I’ve gone here is Katsunumabudokyo Station [MAP], along just before it.
You can get more information and make reservations here on the JR East website. It’s also eligible for JR Rail Pass holders.
August-September is the best time to visit as it’s peak grape season.
Grapes on the vine - each bunch gets a cover to protect it from the rain
Japanese fruits on average can be slightly expensive, and in mid to high-end department stores, grapes from this area can sell for $60-100 USD per bunch.
Part of the reason why costs are higher is because they produce smaller quantities due to intensive pruning, smaller areas of land and because a lot of care goes into growing, shipping and packaging in general. If you notice in the photos above, each bunch of grapes is even semi-wrapped in protective covering.
During grape season in early September, I was able to visit a family-run vineyard and get some of the juiciest grapes at the source.
Farm Kunugi
A little more than a roadside stand, Farm Kunugi [J] had its own parking lot and a small area of tables and chairs under their vines for people to sit and eat what they just bought.
The vineyard began in 1957 and started with 4 types of grapes - Delaware, Kyoho, Fujibutsu and Pione. They’ve since expanded their selection and were selling several of them when I visited.
All of the grapes here are delicious, but I tend to favor the darker purple ones like the Fujiminori and Kyoho. Each grape is huge and packed with intense flavor.
The family was very friendly and they also ship their grapes around the country. Their harvest period is between June and September - going here for fresh grapes definitely beat dealing with Tokyo’s heat and humidity. And they have cute dogs guarding their grapes.
Ikeda Winery
After getting full of grapes, I visited the nearby Ikeda Winery [J], a family-owned winery that’s been in operation since 1995, and only a short drive away from Farm Kunugi.
They don’t have a winery or vineyard tour as it’s more of a small shop. The great thing about them though is that they offer an extensive wine tasting of about 13 different wines for 500 yen (about $5 USD). Here, you can taste a range of whites, rosé and a couple of reds.
If you buy a bottle, many of which are reasonably priced between $15-40 USD, your money is refunded. It’s a good deal, especially if you like white wine. I’m more of a red guy, but their white wines were quite good - clean, light and crisp.
Wine tasting at Ikeda Winery in Katsunuma, Yamanashi
And they have a cute dog as well. Update: She has since passed on as of August 2019.
The late Ikeda Winery family dog, Emma, an older former breeder.
Delhi Bay
Curry at Delhi Bay was recommended to us, so we decided to try it out. It’s a really local, hole-in-the-wall type of spot. They’re spicier level curries are quite good, and have a few types to choose from that are either Indian or European inspired. Each is served with white rice and pickles.
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Hakone
One of the most famous onsen hot spring resort areas in Japan, Hakone makes for a nice weekend trip right outside of Tokyo.
Hakone Shrine
Hakone is one of the most famous areas for onsen hot springs and ryokans
It’s been a popular vacation getaway for Japanese for hundreds of years, and was considered a nice honeymoon destination
It is a former checkpoint to get into Edo (old Tokyo)
[Updated 2019]
The most well known onsen hot spring town near Tokyo is Hakone, a mountain resort area just over an hour outside of the city. Its relaxing environment is complimented by clear views of Mt Fuji.
Mt Fuji, seen from Motohakone.
HOW TO GET THERE
The easiest way to get to Hakone is via the Odakyu Romance Car express train, a 1 hour 15 minute ride from Shinjuku station.
Once arriving at Hakone-Yumoto station, the last stop, there are a couple of ways to get around, depending on where your ryokan is. There are buses across the station as well as the Hakone Tozan train, a 2-car train that goes up and down the mountain between Hakone-Yumoto and Gora stations.
The onsen hot springs and ryokans are spread out all over the mountain. Because most vacationers go to mainly relax at the ryokan where food is provided, restaurants and convenience stores are sparse in a lot of areas.
WHERE TO STAY
Here are a couple of places that I’ve stayed at and recommend:
Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara - A modern ryokan with a private onsen by one of Japan’s most famous chains
Hotel de Yama - A Western-style hotel right on the Lake Ashi waterfront in Motohakone
The main sightseeing happens between Motohakone at Lake Ashi and Gora station, where the Hakone Tozan train ends and the Hakone Tozan cable car starts. The cable car ends at Souzan station, where it connects to the Hakone Ropeway that goes down to Lake Ashi.
You can do your sightseeing going either way, from Lake Ashi to Gora or vice versa. I’ve done both. One of the ropeway stations is a popular stop: Owakudani.
ŌWAKUDANI
Ōwakudani is a geologically active area, with sulfur continuously rising out of the mountain. The name literally means “Great boiling valley” in Japanese.
This area is famous for its black eggs which are created by boiling them in the bubbling mineral-rich waters. It may look odd, but definitely try one, it's good! The belief is that eating one of these eggs adds 7 years to your life - so it’s not a healthy Japanese diet guys, it’s these eggs!
I also tried wasabi ice cream from a shop there which had a tiny kick to it. Not a must have but fun to try something different.
Eggs are boiled in these mineral-rich waters.
The final result: Black eggs ready to eat. They give you salt to dip it in.
The other end of the ropeway is Lake Ashi. At the ropeway station there, there’s a boat resembling a pirate ship that connects to the Motohakone area.
MOTOHAKONE
Afternoon walk around Motohakone
Motohakone is a lakeside town with Japanese gift shops, swan-shaped paddle boats to rent and head out on the lake, and a bunch of coffee shops. It’s also known for being one of the endpoints of the Hakone Ekiden, a collegiate marathon that many Japanese watch during New Year’s.
Historically, this area is significant because it had the Hakone Sekisho Checkpoint, a former entrance point to Edo, or old Tokyo.
The most popular sight in the area is Hakone Shrine. It’s lakeside torii gate (pictured at top) is amongst the must-have Japan photos, and tourists line up in order to get a shot of themselves here. It is extremely photogenic, but I’d recommend getting there by 8:30AM in order to avoid the crowd and have a moment to enjoy being there - the Lake Ashi sight with the water lapping at the torii is truly relaxing.
Hakone Shrine’s photogenic torii gate at Lake Ashi
HAKONE OPEN-AIR MUSEUM
Symphonic Sculpture by Gabriel Loire at the Hakone Open-Air Museum
Besides hot springs and nature, Hakone surprisingly has several museums. The most popular and photogenic is the Hakone Open-Air Museum, an open park-like area with various sculptures and installations to explore.
Some of the popular, photogenic installations are the Symphonic Sculpture, Curved-Space Diamond Structure, Woods of Net and the Picasso Pavilion. I’ve been here once and went through it pretty quickly (1 hour) due to being pressed for time, but it’s actually a pretty big area and worth exploring a little bit.
HAKONE TOWN
Hakone Town, outside of Hakone-Yumoto station
Hakone town is the area right outside of Hakone-Yumoto station, the entrance/exit point to Hakone if you catch the Odakyu Romancecar. There's a bunch of shops with traditional Japanese foods and snacks, both to eat on the spot or to take home, which is why exploring this area might be best as a last stop. One shop even had an outdoor fire with free pieces of fish where you could grill yourself to try.
While eating at the ryokan probably provided good enough meals, the two places I recommended do for sure, there are a couple other spots that I’d say should be on the do not miss list. These will round out a trip to Hakone very nicely:
Yubadon Naokichi
Yuba is the top layers of tofu that form as its being made, and tofu is one of the foods Hakone is known for. Yubadon Naokichi specializes in yuba over rice, “yuba-don”, and is well known for it. They have lunch sets featuring tofu served in various ways, but go with the standard yuba-don set. You probably have never had tofu this way and it’s delicious.
Because it's well known and right in Hakone Town, this place can get quite crowded. Go early if you can - it opens at 11AM.
TOMOEI
Perhaps the best unagi I’ve ever eaten, top 2 at least! Unagi Tomoei is ranked as a “popular spot” on Retty, one of Japan’s top review sites, and it’s well deserved. The unagi here is amazing - flavorful, fluffy and grilled to perfection. They use sake quality spring water to prep, and you enjoy it on solid wooden tables. The “jo-unagi” (bigger size) set, including soup and pickles will start at 4,600 JPY after a 1+ hour wait, but it’ll be so worth it, trust me.
Unagi Tomoei is at the edge of the Hakone area and can be accessed by catching Hakone Tozan train from Hakone-Yumoto to Kazamatsuri station.
One of the most famous onsen hot spring resort areas in Japan, Hakone makes for a nice weekend trip right outside of Tokyo.