Kauai, Hawaii: The West Side
Visiting the western part of Kauai, Hawaii, the place of my childhood summers with spots like Waimea Canyon, Polihale Beach, Kokeʻe and Waimea.
Kauai is the 4th largest island in Hawaii, nicknamed “The Garden Isle”
Popular destinations on the west side include Hanapepe, Waimea, Polihale, Waimea Canyon and Kokeʻe
Kauai is like my second Hawaii home, and it’s my favorite island besides my hometown on Oahu.
In my opinion, it’s the most beautiful island in Hawaii, if they could ever be ranked, and has what just about any visitor to Hawaii could want aside from an active volcano. People often ask me where in Hawaii they should visit. Well, there’s my answer.
My family’s roots are based on the island’s west side in Waimea, so many of my childhood summers were spent there. We’d fly there along with other Oahu relatives, stay in the mountain cabins of Kokeʻe, have bonfires at Kekaha beach and check out the local Japanese bon dance festivals. There were a lot of fond memories made on the island.
I finally went back for a visit in 2017, after more than a decade. My life had changed enormously during that time - I had lived in San Francisco, then moved to Japan, living in Yukuhashi, Fukuoka and now Tokyo. I wasn’t sure how I’d react being on Kauai again, but it was really nice returning to a place that played a considerable part of my childhood.
Kauai is the fourth largest island in the state and has a big range in landscape.
There are lush greens and rivers on the northeast side in Hanalei, and dry, red dirt and vast beaches out west in Waimea and Kekaha. Then heading up the mountain, you’ll go through Hawaii’s “mini Grand Canyon” or Waimea Canyon before hitting the foggy green peak of Mt Waiʻaleʻale that’s known as one of the rainiest places on Earth.
While I visited most places growing up, there wasn’t enough time to do everything I wanted to this time around - Missed Hanapepe, didn’t fully walk around Waimea, and so on. These are a few places that I prioritized though, places that I think are worth checking out on the west side of Kauai.
WAIMEA
Waimea Landing pier in Waimea
Waimea is basically the last town in west Kauai and the fork point to my two west Kauai recommendations below. It has a couple of supermarkets like Ishihara (bottom) and Big Save, places to eat as well as shops and tourist attractions that I used to visit as a kid like the Menhune Ditch, the Swinging Bridge and Russian Fort. For a glimpse of local life though, the Waimea Landing is a pretty good place to get that.
The now downsized version of what was a former port, the pier often has locals hanging out fishing. The waters aren’t the picturesque blue that people might imagine in Hawaii because of the nearby Waimea River mouth bringing down dirt from Waimea Canyon, but it’s a nice place to stop by while roaming the town as it’s only a block away from the main street. There are some amazing sunsets here, I’ll need to go back and take a proper photo of one.
Local kids catch a baby Hammerhead shark at the Waimea Landing
Beach area between Waimea Landing and the Waimea River mouth
KOKEʻE & WAIMEA CANYON
Waimea Canyon
Hawaii’s mini Grand Canyon, the Waimea Canyon is a view many might not expect to see in Hawaii but in my opinion, is a must. Nowhere else in Hawaii has a similar view and Iran one of my favorites.
From Waimea town, there’s a road that goes up to Kokeʻe which is towards the summit of Mt Waiʻaleʻale, the main volcanic mountain on Kauai. The drive up goes through the ridges of the canyon and there are scenic lookouts to stop at.
Towards the top of the Kokeʻe area, there’s Kokeʻe State Park as well as another amazing lookout of the Kalalau mountain range. Contrasting the red dirt scenes of Waimea town and the Waimea Canyon, some of the most beautiful greens and blues in all of Hawaii are here. Definitely go up to Kokeʻe early though for the best view as the clouds and fog roll in.
Waimea Canyon Lookout | MAP
Kalalau Lookout | MAP
The view from the Kalalau lookout in the Kokeʻe area
POLIHALE BEACH
One of the best beaches in Hawaii, I feel. Polihale beach is a long, wide, white-sanded beach area at the most western point of Kauai with a clear view of neighboring Niihau island.
It’s not the easiest to get to and it’s best to go in a truck or SUV because you have to drive off-road a while after the pavement ends. When you hit the fork in the dirt road at the Monkeypod Tree [MAP], go right and when you undoubtably question if you’re going the right way as I did the last time I went, just keep going. There will be a small parking area with a few tables that eventually shows up.
The waters here are beautiful, sunsets amazing, and it’s not crowded at all. It’s a more of a local spot and almost like having a semi-private beach. Definitely bring some sun protection though as the sun is piercing on this side of the island.
Waimea was always the main area that I would spend my Kauai summers growing up, and it was the hub on this last trip to Kokeʻe, Waimea Canyon and Polihale Beach as well. It’s a small town but has a lot of character. It also has some great places to stop at for some food or snacks. Here are a couple.
ISHIHARA MARKET
Some of the best poke in Hawaii. Ishihara Market was a local, family-owned market before being taken over by the same owner that runs Foodland, one of Hawaii’s major supermarket chains.
Ishihara has remained pretty much the same according to reports, which is a good thing because they have a small town vibe and great local, Hawaii-style takeout foods. Their poke is the best and they have a wide selection in the back of their store. My personal favorite is their hamachi poke - uncommon and so good.
* This market has unfortunately closed.
JOJO’S SHAVE ICE
JoJo’s became a staple shave ice spot since when I’d visit Waimea growing up and they still should be.
One thing about the westside of Kauai is that it is hot and dry, so shave ice really hits the spot. Their serving sizes are generous and they have 34 different flavors to choose from as well as set combos. I’m sure any of them are good but mix in some local Hawaii flavors for sure.
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Best Poke Spots in Honolulu
Poke at its origin - these are some Honolulu poke spots that you can’t go wrong with.
Poke became one of the most well known foods coming out of Hawaii.
While most of the poke seen around the world isn’t actually authentic poke (other locals would surely agree with me), it’s cool to see something local become such an international phenomenon.
If you’re like me and ideally want to try dishes where they originated from, chances are that poke will be on your “to eat” list. If it isn’t, it absolutely should be.
This is by no means a definitive list, and there are many other places that make fantastic poke that maybe I’ve yet to try or need to try again, but here are some of my favorites that you can’t go wrong with.
Off the Hook Poke Market
This is one of the more recent poke places, opening in late 2018, but it’s one of, if not the best I’ve had.
They have some really good poke flavors, so I recommend getting a 2-choice bowl. My favorites are their ginger ahi, Kilauea Fire and spicy tuna, but you can’t go wrong with any of their options. Get all of the free toppings as well.
Service is great, really friendly and personable. This is a great addition to the Manoa area.
Ono Seafood
If you ask me where’s consistently been the poke spot that I recommend and go to, it’s probably Ono Seafood.
It's a really small, unassuming hole-in-the-wall place in the Kapahulu area, that in recent years has become pretty well known and extremely popular. All of their poke are good, and I usually alternate between their shoyu ahi, kim chee tako, spicy tuna or Hawaiian ahi poke.
Service is good and a soft drink is included as well.
Fresh Catch
If you’re looking for a poke spot that you can sit down and eat at, Fresh Catch is the best bet. They make a variety of plate lunches as well, but when I tried their poke, it immediately became one of my favorites.
Their shoyu ahi poke is very saucy and perhaps the most flavorful that I’ve had. Yum!
Foodland
Ask a local where they usually get their poke from and it’s often a market. In Hawaii, most markets make poke whether it’s Whole Foods, Safeway or even Costco.
To me, Foodland makes the best poke and they have a huge range - raw crab poke, clam poke, mussels poke, choices that most other poke spots just don’t have.
Foodland has poke bowls, but most locals pick up a container and take it over to a dinner party, a picnic or potluck. Can’t go wrong picking out a few and having a beer with it.
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East Honolulu, Hawaii
Scenic spots and good eats in East Honolulu, from Kahala to Makapu’u.
Koko Crater and Koko Marina in Hawaii Kai
East Honolulu is the area between Kahala and Makapu’u on the south shore of Oahu
It’s a desirable residential area that includes Kahala, Waialae Iki, Aina Haina, Hawaii Loa Ridge, Niu Valley and Hawaii Kai
Hanauma Bay, Sandy Beach, and Makapu’u Lighthouse are a few popular places here
I grew up here in East Honolulu, Hawaii Kai to be exact, so it’s the part of Hawaii that most feels like home to me.
It’s a relatively low key, residential area of the island connected by a single road, Kalanianaole highway, that runs along the coastline after the H-1 freeway ends. There are few high rises on this part of the island as most families live in houses, and it is a lot more Hawaii-esque than central parts of Honolulu.
Here are a few scenic spots that I recommend, from west to east, as well as some food places (at the bottom):
THE KAHALA HOTEL
Known as one of Honolulu’s top hotels, The Kahala is in a pretty great location. It’s a beachfront hotel tucked away in the upscale, quiet Kahala area next to the Waialae Golf Course.
Sometimes I’ll go to the Plumeria Beach House (info at the bottom) for lunch which has an open-air veranda area looking towards the beach, allowing you to really relax in a peaceful setting near the water.
WAILUPE BEACH PARK
Wailupe Beach Park is a very small, local park area alongside Kalanianaole highway. It’s quite easy to miss, but people go to the park to fish, paddle board or have a picnic.
I’ll sometimes quick pitstop to enjoy some takeout. You can also catch a view of the backside of Diamond Head.
MAUNALUA BAY
At the start of Hawaii Kai, there’s a large parking lot area along the highway’s ocean side. This is Maunalua Bay, which is mainly a boat ramp and paddling area.
I love this part of Hawaii Kai as it’s convenient for watching the sunset. It gives you a panoramic view and there’s always ample parking, which is a big plus.
KOKO MARINA
Koko Marina is at the center of my hometown in Hawaii Kai, and it has some of the nicest, turquoise blue waters in Hawaii.
You can get up close from any of the three shopping centers located along it; the Hawaii Kai Towne Center, Hawaii Kai Shopping Center and Koko Marina Center.
The photo at the top of this blog was taken from Hawaii Kai Towne Center and this one just above was from Koko Marina Center.
HANAUMA BAY
Hanauma Bay is one of the more popular tourist destinations on the island since, well, it’s gorgeous and because you’re able to snorkel with a lot of fish in pretty calm, shallow waters.
Along the crater ridge is a mostly paved trail that’ll give you a nice view of Hanauma Bay from above as well as Hawaii Kai looking towards Diamond Head.
Parking is really limited though, and they close entirely on Tuesdays due to it actually being a nature preserve, so definitely double check.
BLOWHOLE & HALONA (COCKROACH) COVE
If you keep heading up Kalanianaole highway past Hanauma Bay, you will hit Halona Blowhole and Cockroach Cove on the right.
The coastline in this area is pretty different from most of the island as the road becomes windy and you actually have to drive along the edge of a pretty high lava rock cliff.
Halona Cove aka “Cockroach Cove” is a small beach area below the Blowhole parking lot. You just have to climb down the rocky hill.
From this area looking east, you can also see Sandy Beach, which is a popular and notoriously dangerous bodyboarding spot. Even the Secret Service didn’t like President Obama going there. For that reason, I’ll skip over it although there is a nice tide pool area just after it.
MAKAPU’U
The Makapu’u area is the eastern tip of Oahu. There’s a popular hike there, the Makapu’u Lighthouse Trail, which is an easy, paved incline that’s less than 3 miles roundtrip. On the way up, you can see Sandy Beach and the back of Koko Crater, and a view of Waimanalo at the top.
There’s also a lookout you can park and walk to in case you’re not in the mood to hike up [MAP]. No shame in that!
Also in the area is Alan Davis beach [MAP] to cool off after.
FOOD
Now for the food. Most of the food around East Honolulu is at area shopping centers. If you’re looking for something on this side of town, here are some decent choices.
LA TOUR CAFE
Delicious sandwiches, flatbread pizzas and salads for lunch.
La Tour Cafe is in the Aina Haina Shopping Center and is a good if you want to catch up with friends, have a business meeting and work, or just want to get a good bite to eat.
Everything I’ve had there is delicious, but I’m particularly a fan of their Chili-lime chicken flatbread pizza.
UNCLE CLAY’S HOUSE OF PURE ALOHA
Shave ice and local desserts, Uncle Clay’s House of Pure Aloha basically lives up to its name of providing pure ‘aloha.’
Formerly Doe Fang, a neighborhood crackseed store in Aina Haina Shopping Center, it has grown in popularity not just because it has tasty shave ice in local Hawaii flavors, but also because of their effort to create a family in the community.
PLUMERIA BEACH HOUSE
One of my favorite places to go for brunch or lunch in Honolulu. It’s a gorgeous, near beach, open-air location at one of the best hotels on the island.
Plumeria Beach House is one of the restaurants at The Kahala Hotel and has won a range of local awards. They have buffets as well.
Perfect spot to enjoy a nice, yet casual meal surrounded by Hawaii’s lush environment.
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Vintage Cave Club: An Outstanding Dining Experience
A French-Japonais dining experience at one of Hawaii’s most exclusive restaurants.
A culinary experience that was unlike any other I’ve had.
I was fortunate enough to eat at Vintage Cave Club with my family, an exclusive, high-end restaurant featuring cuisine prepared by elite chefs that is regarded as one of the best in Hawaii. Their slogan says it all: Hideaway Guest House For Oenophiles & Connoisseurs.
Opened in 2012 by Japanese real estate billionaire Takeshi Sekiguchi, club members who would pay an annual fee in the thousands would go there to dine. It’s since been opened to the public (there are still club members), and has been dined at by President Barack Obama and Michelle Obama, amongst other notable figures and celebrities.
The first points worth noting are its location and exterior, as pictured up top. It’s located in the darkest, least visited parking lot area of Ala Moana Shopping Center. Inconspicuously tucked between the pillars and parking stalls is its dimly lit red brick facade with a single black, metal door.
This is where the experience begins.
The Vintage Cave Club experience
Ringing the buzzer, the host answers on the intercom before opening the door to greet you. Walking through the cellar-like foyer, a vibe that is consistent throughout, you get on an elevator that leads to the restaurant.
Main dining area of Vintage Cave Club, with art by Ardon Mordecai and Pablo Picasso decorating the walls
The restaurant space is dimly lit and spacious, decorated with art like "Les Deux Femmes Nues" by Pablo Picasso, a Baccarat crystalware collection and a lot more.
Besides the central dining space, there are a couple of small, semi-private nooks - one of which where we ate in, private dining rooms and a sushi counter. There's also a wine cellar stocked with the most exclusive wines, a locker room for club members to store their expensive bottles, and a bar with a selection that includes a 50 year old Macallan - $6,000 for a small pour.
Dining nook where the Obamas dined
Bar room
Private lockers for club members
Our menu was the French Japonais Prix Fixe, a 10-12 course menu featuring Takanokuni Wagyu. While we got a deal, the course is priced at $300 per person, with tax, service charge and tip separate.
Each dish was brought to us one by one, and the service was impressive throughout the evening. A few servers would come out together and in synchronized fashion, place the dish in front of each of us at the same time. Our lead server was very professional, not at all stiff, and personable in the perfect amount.
French Japonais Prix Fixe
Here's everything that was served. One thing worthy of noting is that while the food itself was nicely arranged, the dishes they each were served on were art pieces in their own right, making the presentation that much more amazing.
Abalone with abalone liver and yuzu ponzu jelly
A5 Takanokuni Wagyu with miso pickled cream cheese and wasabi
Siberian caviar on ahi (tuna) tartare, basil powder and toast w/ 24k gold leaf
Uni chawanmushi (Japanese steamed custard-like flan)
Sashimi (3 types) over seaweed salad, amaebi (sweet shrimp) jelly and wasabi foam with a mini garden salad and miso sesame paste
Consommé soup with A5 Takanokuni Wagyu and prosciutto, shiitake mushroom, daikon (Japanese radish) and Tokyo negi (green onion) foam
Served with the soup: Miso bread, sesame charcoal bread, ricotta cheese in olive oil, red wine salt
Onaga (long-tail red snapper) in white wine sauce, tomato (?), ikura, saffron tuile
Yuzu sorbet
Hitsumabushi unagi and A5 Takanokuni Wagyu on crispy risotto in red wine sauce
Ribeye and Filet A5 Takanokuni Wagyu in miso vinegar sauce, with black truffle in sherry sauce
(Not included in the Prix Fixe) 29 year old aged peaberry Kona coffee - Smooth tasting, reminiscent of Kopi Luwak
Served with the coffee: Sugar jelly
Corn chowder and corn gelato with crystallized soy powder
The meal was just about perfect in every way, and everyone finished just the right amount of full. Would I have taken more if it were an all-you-can-eat buffet? Sure. But it wasn't that kind of dinner. Everyone finished satisfied.
After the meal, our server offered to take us around on a tour of the restaurant, explaining its history, approach, wine and art collection. She guided us back in the elevator and walked us out, concluding our experience at the Vintage Cave Club.
A dinner with my family that I won't forget.
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Oahu: Favorite Spots at Home
As a local who grew up in Honolulu, these are the places on Oahu that I try to go to when I visit home.
Honolulu is my hometown, having grown up there.
Because of that, I’m asked by a lot of friends and colleagues who plan to visit for recommendations on where to go and what to eat. Like them, I too now have a limited amount of time when I visit home, making me really have to think about where I want to make sure I go.
While the places I recommend vary depending on who's asking, these are the few core places that I find myself making a priority:
Lanikai Pillbox Hike & LANIKAI Beach
![View from the Lanikai Pillboxes hike [BUY PRINT]](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/63f8b23b0626755198127ae3/1677529484149-QXM5KG62DAHV245306B3/Lanikai.jpg)
View from the Lanikai Pillboxes hike [BUY PRINT]
I’m not someone who looks for the most challenging hike around. I look for a good balance of view and effort, and Lanikai Pillboxes is a great one.
After the steep incline at the beginning, it's an easy hike and is quite short. For the amount of sweat you break, the view is amazing - from Waimanalo to Kaneohe, all the green and all the blue.
Parking is the biggest problem for both the hike and the beach as the area is purely residential. I’ve usually searched for street stalls around the neighborhood and been lucky enough to find a space.
After hiking, I usually head down to Lanikai Beach, just a short walk away through the neighborhood.
The beach has fine, white sand and calm, light blue waters. It's even been ranked as one of the top 25 beaches in the US on TripAdvisor. Just make sure the weather on this side of the island is good before going.
Lanikai beach, facing Kaneohe
Haleiwa & The North Shore
The Rainbow Bridge of Haleiwa Town
The North Shore area is one of the last "Old Hawaii" type of places on the island.
I think one of the things that surprises first-timers to Honolulu is how much more of a city it is than they had thought. I’ve seen the Haleiwa area become a tourist destination in recent years, but it still resembles how things were decades ago.
Haleiwa has a laid back kind of vibe with a bunch of shops and good places to eat. Garlic shrimp at Giovanni's is my favorite (see below for more info). Matsumoto’s Shave Ice is maybe the most popular place in the area, and while I don’t think it’s the best shave ice on Oahu, it’s right there if you’re in the mood.
My friends and I usually make a full day out of a trip to Haleiwa and the North Shore. After a stop in Old Haleiwa Town [MAP], you can drive further and make stops at Waimea Bay [MAP}, Sunset Beach and Banzai Pipeline [MAP] to watch surfers ride some big waves, and even hit up roadside stands in Kahuku (they’re known for their corn) if you go that far.
Waimea Bay
Food is likely the biggest priority (alongside the beach) for Hawaii-natives who are visiting their home.
With the restaurant boom that has happened in the last few years, there's a lot of good places to choose from and try out. Out of all the options, these are my go-to places to grab a bite when I'm home:
Zippy's
I don’t think you’ll find any local who hasn’t had Zippy’s. It’s the most famous diner in Hawaii, with a bunch of locations around Oahu.
President Barack Obama, a Hawaii-native, is a fan. Bruno Mars, another local, is as well. Even President Bill and Chelsea Clinton are fans. The chili (and rice, yes, white rice) is their most famous dish, but it’s not a chili you’re used to.
It’s far from photogenic food, it’s not trendy and probably not the best deal either, but it truly is a local favorite for anyone who wants to eat what locals eat.
Waiola Shave Ice
There are a lot of great shave ice places on the island but my favorite is Waiola's.
It's original location is centrally located in town, in it's original, authentic form in a residential neighborhood. They serve some really soft, finely shaven shave ice.
There are a lot of Hawaii-only flavors - li hing mui (dried plum) and haupia (coconut pudding) being a couple of my favorites, and topping them off with condensed milk and ice cream at the bottom is amazing on a hot day.
OFF THE HOOK POKE MARKET
Poke has exploded in popularity around the world but nothing is like having some at the origin. Off the Hook Poke Market is one of the more recent poke places, opening in late 2018, but it’s one of, if not the best I’ve had.
They have some really good poke flavors, so I recommend getting a 2-choice bowl. My favorites are their ginger ahi, Kilauea Fire and spicy tuna, but you can’t go wrong with any. Get all of the free toppings on top as well.
Service is great, really friendly and personable. This is a great addition to the Manoa area.
Giovanni's
When locals say “shrimp truck,” they’re usually referring to Giovanni’s.
These food trucks have become really popular for tourists and locals doing a Haleiwa and North Shore day trip, and I’ll make sure to stop by when I’m doing one as well. They’re generous with portions and with that buttery garlic sauce that drenches the plate. Yum.
Ono Seafood
There's a lot of good poke places in Hawaii, but one of my longest go-to spots is Ono Seafood.
It's a really small, unassuming hole-in-the-wall place in the Kapahulu area, and they make some fresh poke bowls that are good for take out for the beach for lunch.
Service is good and a soft drink is included as well.
HOME BAR & GRILL
This is a place that's probably not on a lot of travel sites or blogs, but Home Bar is big for a lot of locals.
A sports bar slash local diner atmosphere, Home Bar makes some absolutely delicious local foods and has really friendly, casual service.
Kim chee fried rice and tater tot nachos are must-eats. It does get crowded and is on the louder side, especially on weekends, but it’s one of my favorite places in Hawaii to hang out with friends.
Poke at its origin - these are some Honolulu poke spots that you can’t go wrong with.