Hakone: Hotel de Yama
A Hakone stay at Lake Ashi with at Hotel de Yama, overlooking the Hakone Azalea Fair.
Hakone’s Hotel de Yama with its garden in full bloom
Quite possibly the best location you could stay at in Hakone.
Hotel de Yama, also known as Yama no Hotel, is a 4-star resort located right on Hakone’s Lake Ashi.
It began as a vacation home for Koyata Iwasaki, nephew of Yataro Iwasaki, the founder of Mitsubishi. It is designed in a Western style and has catered to both domestic and international guests since 1948, just as was desired by Iwasaki.
HOW TO GET THERE
The easiest way to get to Hakone is via the Odakyu Romance Car express train, a 1 hour 15 minute ride from Shinjuku station.
Once arriving at Hakone-Yumoto station, the last stop, there are a couple of options. The easiest way is catching a bus from across the station that goes to the Motohakone area. From Motohakone, there are shuttles to Hotel de Yama.
Entrance to Hotel de Yama
Lobby area
We stayed here for a weekend in Hakone in May, when the Azalea and Rhododendron flowers are in bloom for the Hakone Azalea Fair. The flowers, 800 JPY (free for guests), are a big attraction draws a pretty decent crowd.
Hakone Azalea Fair
Hotel de Yama is unlike a lot of the other resorts in Hakone. Due to it being a Western style resort, it’s not a typical ryokan and more like a full-service hotel that you’re used to.
We stayed in a Standard Type room, a 30㎡ room with two full-size beds and a view of the garden and Lake Ashi. Prices vary depending on the room and season but will typically start at around $300/night.
Room with two double beds
View of Lake Ashi and the garden from the room
The resort, of course, has an onsen hot spring as well. One thing to keep in mind though, is that the male onsen is not as good as the female onsen. While females have an outdoor area with a view of the surrounding forest, males have high walls lining the perimeter of their bath and there’s no view.
In addition to the hot springs, Hotel de Yama also has a spa, karaoke room and banquet hall.
There are a few places to eat and drink as well. Salon de thé Rosage, a French cafe, Vert Bois, which specializes in French cuisine, the Lounge Bar for drinks, and Tsutsuji no Chaya, a Japanese kaiseki restaurant. We stayed with the Western theme for our meals.
Salon de thé Rosage
Chocolate cake with tea at Salon de thé Rosage
Salon de thé Rosage is separated from the main Hotel de Yama building and is right on Lake Ashi. They have both inside and outdoor seating.
The cafe has a cake set for 1,350 JPY that lets you pick from 4 different options - mont blanc, orange mousse, strawberry shortcake, chocolate cake - and pair it with tea.
VERT BOIS
Dinner at Vert Bois was a 6-course French meal by Chef Kiyotoshi Yusa. It also had a pretty nice list of wines to choose from - both by the bottle or in 1-3 glass sets.
Breakfast was also at Vert Bois and featured eggs (sunnyside up or omelet), salad, miso bacon, an original juice, pineapple, coffee/tea and bread.
Breakfast at Vert Bois
Checkout is at 12PM which gives you a lot of time to hit up the onsen one last time and relax in one of the massage chairs located in the dressing room.
Maybe the biggest benefit for people like me who enjoy taking photos is being close to Hakone Shrine. From the hotel, it’s easy really easy to walk on over to the picturesque torii gate before the massive crowd does (by 8:30AM). Nice hotel, fantastic location.
Hakone Shrine, just a short walk from Hotel de Yama
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Hakone: Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara
A peaceful Hakone getaway at the Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara, a luxurious boutique ryokan with private onsen hot spings.
Private onsen tub at Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara in Hakone
A blissful getaway where the day is spent silently soaking in a private onsen hot spring looking out at the view.
Hoshino Resorts is one of the most well known and sought after luxury hot spring and resort ryokan chains in Japan. I stayed at their KAI Kinugawa resort while visiting Nikko, so I knew that their boutique KAI line provides for a very relaxing weekend.
We stayed for a night at their KAI Sengokuhara location, which opened in 2018, this time when we stayed for a weekend in Hakone.
Sengokuhara
HOW TO GET THERE
We took the Odakyu Romance Car to Hakone from Shinjuku station, a popular way to get to Hakone besides driving. From there, the fastest route is catch a bus to the Daigatake stop in Sengokuhara [MAP], which is right in front of Family Mart. Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara Is located right up the hill next to it.
As soon as you enter the Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara‘s premises, a staff member approaches you to greet you and guide you up to the lobby. A long escalator takes you up to the lobby area, where you check-in and schedule your meals and any activities.
Lobby area with art room
This Hoshino Resorts KAI location is focused on art, so they have an optional activity that lets participating guests color a long cloth with Japanese scenes, something you do after dinner and then take home with you as a souvenir. The room keys also stay on the art theme, with keychains that have nicely displayed, dried, Japanese flowers.
We stayed in the Japanese-style Suite with Outdoor Bath RB2, a spacious room of just about 63㎡～70㎡ big with 2 double beds, a living room, detached desk space, balcony and private onsen bath outside. It was just under $400.
Living room area with a huge L-shaped sofa and Okinawan tatami mat flooring
The bed area is attached to the living room and features gorgeous lighting accents
Spacious balcony area with furniture for two
The bathroom is roomy and well designed
Desk area with a view looking outside at Sengokuhara
The Hot Spring
The water that flows through Japanese onsen hot springs vary and depend on where the water is coming from. Each has a slightly different combination of minerals carrying different benefits to the skin and body.
Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara‘s onsen water is from the Owakudani volcanic valley and is slightly milky white in color. They report that their water has “acid,” calcium, sulfur and chloride.
The “acid” helps with chronic dermatitis, sulfur with chronic dermatitis and circulation, and the chloride salts coat the body like a veil, warming and moisturizing the skin. It did leave my skin feeling pretty smooth indeed.
Public indoor onsen bath area
Smaller outdoor public onsen area
The lounge area by the public onsen baths has free popsicles, juice and tea
Dining
Like most ryokan stays, Japanese kaiseki meals are included. They’re served in the dining hall, one that is beautifully designed with Japanese aesthetics and allowing each party to have a private room.
Shokujidokoro (dining hall)
Dinner had several courses, each presented very nicely and was equally delicious.
Breakfast was just as impressive and a great meal to start off the next day.
Breakfast featuring fish and tonjiru (pork borth miso soup)
The Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara lives up to its high reviews as an elegant onsen retreat. It’s perfectly set up so that you see as few people as possible and the rooms themselves were just about silent. I definitely recommend this resort for anyone looking for a luxurious Japanese getaway.
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Hakone
One of the most famous onsen hot spring resort areas in Japan, Hakone makes for a nice weekend trip right outside of Tokyo.
Hakone Shrine
Hakone is one of the most famous areas for onsen hot springs and ryokans
It’s been a popular vacation getaway for Japanese for hundreds of years, and was considered a nice honeymoon destination
It is a former checkpoint to get into Edo (old Tokyo)
[Updated 2019]
The most well known onsen hot spring town near Tokyo is Hakone, a mountain resort area just over an hour outside of the city. Its relaxing environment is complimented by clear views of Mt Fuji.
Mt Fuji, seen from Motohakone.
HOW TO GET THERE
The easiest way to get to Hakone is via the Odakyu Romance Car express train, a 1 hour 15 minute ride from Shinjuku station.
Once arriving at Hakone-Yumoto station, the last stop, there are a couple of ways to get around, depending on where your ryokan is. There are buses across the station as well as the Hakone Tozan train, a 2-car train that goes up and down the mountain between Hakone-Yumoto and Gora stations.
The onsen hot springs and ryokans are spread out all over the mountain. Because most vacationers go to mainly relax at the ryokan where food is provided, restaurants and convenience stores are sparse in a lot of areas.
WHERE TO STAY
Here are a couple of places that I’ve stayed at and recommend:
Hoshino Resorts KAI Sengokuhara - A modern ryokan with a private onsen by one of Japan’s most famous chains
Hotel de Yama - A Western-style hotel right on the Lake Ashi waterfront in Motohakone
The main sightseeing happens between Motohakone at Lake Ashi and Gora station, where the Hakone Tozan train ends and the Hakone Tozan cable car starts. The cable car ends at Souzan station, where it connects to the Hakone Ropeway that goes down to Lake Ashi.
You can do your sightseeing going either way, from Lake Ashi to Gora or vice versa. I’ve done both. One of the ropeway stations is a popular stop: Owakudani.
ŌWAKUDANI
Ōwakudani is a geologically active area, with sulfur continuously rising out of the mountain. The name literally means “Great boiling valley” in Japanese.
This area is famous for its black eggs which are created by boiling them in the bubbling mineral-rich waters. It may look odd, but definitely try one, it's good! The belief is that eating one of these eggs adds 7 years to your life - so it’s not a healthy Japanese diet guys, it’s these eggs!
I also tried wasabi ice cream from a shop there which had a tiny kick to it. Not a must have but fun to try something different.
Eggs are boiled in these mineral-rich waters.
The final result: Black eggs ready to eat. They give you salt to dip it in.
The other end of the ropeway is Lake Ashi. At the ropeway station there, there’s a boat resembling a pirate ship that connects to the Motohakone area.
MOTOHAKONE
Afternoon walk around Motohakone
Motohakone is a lakeside town with Japanese gift shops, swan-shaped paddle boats to rent and head out on the lake, and a bunch of coffee shops. It’s also known for being one of the endpoints of the Hakone Ekiden, a collegiate marathon that many Japanese watch during New Year’s.
Historically, this area is significant because it had the Hakone Sekisho Checkpoint, a former entrance point to Edo, or old Tokyo.
The most popular sight in the area is Hakone Shrine. It’s lakeside torii gate (pictured at top) is amongst the must-have Japan photos, and tourists line up in order to get a shot of themselves here. It is extremely photogenic, but I’d recommend getting there by 8:30AM in order to avoid the crowd and have a moment to enjoy being there - the Lake Ashi sight with the water lapping at the torii is truly relaxing.
Hakone Shrine’s photogenic torii gate at Lake Ashi
HAKONE OPEN-AIR MUSEUM
Symphonic Sculpture by Gabriel Loire at the Hakone Open-Air Museum
Besides hot springs and nature, Hakone surprisingly has several museums. The most popular and photogenic is the Hakone Open-Air Museum, an open park-like area with various sculptures and installations to explore.
Some of the popular, photogenic installations are the Symphonic Sculpture, Curved-Space Diamond Structure, Woods of Net and the Picasso Pavilion. I’ve been here once and went through it pretty quickly (1 hour) due to being pressed for time, but it’s actually a pretty big area and worth exploring a little bit.
HAKONE TOWN
Hakone Town, outside of Hakone-Yumoto station
Hakone town is the area right outside of Hakone-Yumoto station, the entrance/exit point to Hakone if you catch the Odakyu Romancecar. There's a bunch of shops with traditional Japanese foods and snacks, both to eat on the spot or to take home, which is why exploring this area might be best as a last stop. One shop even had an outdoor fire with free pieces of fish where you could grill yourself to try.
While eating at the ryokan probably provided good enough meals, the two places I recommended do for sure, there are a couple other spots that I’d say should be on the do not miss list. These will round out a trip to Hakone very nicely:
Yubadon Naokichi
Yuba is the top layers of tofu that form as its being made, and tofu is one of the foods Hakone is known for. Yubadon Naokichi specializes in yuba over rice, “yuba-don”, and is well known for it. They have lunch sets featuring tofu served in various ways, but go with the standard yuba-don set. You probably have never had tofu this way and it’s delicious.
Because it's well known and right in Hakone Town, this place can get quite crowded. Go early if you can - it opens at 11AM.
TOMOEI
Perhaps the best unagi I’ve ever eaten, top 2 at least! Unagi Tomoei is ranked as a “popular spot” on Retty, one of Japan’s top review sites, and it’s well deserved. The unagi here is amazing - flavorful, fluffy and grilled to perfection. They use sake quality spring water to prep, and you enjoy it on solid wooden tables. The “jo-unagi” (bigger size) set, including soup and pickles will start at 4,600 JPY after a 1+ hour wait, but it’ll be so worth it, trust me.
Unagi Tomoei is at the edge of the Hakone area and can be accessed by catching Hakone Tozan train from Hakone-Yumoto to Kazamatsuri station.