Kaga Onsen: Hoshino Resorts KAI Kaga
A nice Kanazawa getaway at the Hoshino Resorts KAI Kaga, an upscale boutique ryokan that lets guest dive into local culture.
A break from life in a small, rural town near Kanazawa.
Hoshino Resorts is one of the most well known and sought after luxury hot spring and resort ryokan chains in Japan. I’ve stayed at their KAI Kinugawa resort while visiting Nikko, as well as their KAI Sengokuhara resort while visiting Hakone.
I was glad to get another chance to stay at one of their locations in 2020, while on a trip to Kanazawa.
HOW TO GET THERE
We took the Thunderbird Express train from Kanazawa Station to Kagaonsen Station, the quickest way at the moment. Kagaonsen Station is a very local station, but a Shinkansen station is currently being built to replace it. From there, there is a bus that will take you near the resort but if it’s difficult, catching a taxi may be easier.
A Hoshino Resorts KAI Kaga staff member greets you at the entrance and guides you to the check-in area. You put your shoes into a locker and wear slippers around the resort. You can then check-in and schedule your meals (2 time options per meal) and any activities such as massages.
The Kaga Onsen area is small and there isn’t much to do or see. This isn’t a big problem though, as the purpose of going to these types of ryokans is to relax at the resort.
The library lounge area
Hoshino Resorts KAI Kaga is focused on providing a local experience. A lot of the decor is from the area, using traditional patterns and techniques, and are created by local craftsmen. After dinner, a traditional lion dance is performed that was first performed in the region back in the 16th century.
We stayed in the Japanese-style Room TA3, a room that measures between 41㎡～51㎡ big with 2 beds, a living room, bathroom with shower, and balcony.
Living room area with mat flooring and sleep area in the back
The living room area
The balcony space
Bathroom with shower
The Hot Spring
The water that flows through Japanese onsen hot springs vary and depend on where the water is coming from. Each has a slightly different combination of minerals carrying different benefits to the skin and body.
Hoshino Resorts KAI Kaga’s onsen water is from the Yamashiro hot spring and is pretty clear in color. They report that their water has sodium, calcium, sulfate and chloride.
This combination is said to help in areas such as protecting the skin from drying out and accelerating the body’s natural healing process, as well as coating the body, therefore warming and moisturizing the skin.
Public indoor onsen bath area
Smaller outdoor public onsen area
Dining
Like most ryokan stays, Japanese kaiseki meals are included. Hoshino Resorts KAI Kaga’s meals are served in the dining hall that has separation barriers, allowing each party to have a private room.
Shokujidokoro (dining hall)
The Hoshino Resorts KAI line never fails to have amazing food.
Ishikawa prefecture is known for crab, and there are a few different crab kaiseki courses to choose from.
You can’t go wrong with any. Ours included dishes such as crab sashimi, crab hot pot, and a Shimenawa-Mushi steamed crab that is made by steaming the crab in a saltwater-soaked rope. Just so good.
Breakfast was also great and was centered on a seafood nabe (hot pot).
The Hoshino Resorts KAI Kaga was yet another resort in the KAI line that I enjoyed staying at. They really area an elegant onsen retreat. Whenever we have an extra day on a trip where we can afford to relax, we look to see if there’s a KAI location nearby.
I recommend this resort for anyone looking for a luxurious Japanese getaway.
Furoshiki wrapping cloths to take home
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Kanazawa
A first trip to the city that is often compared to Kyoto to explore the sights and good food.
Kanazawa is the capital of Ishikawa prefecture and is easily accessible from Tokyo
It has one of the top 3 landscape gardens in Japan, and has been largely untouched by war and disasters
It’s known for its seafood, especially crab, as well as curry
It’s often compared to Kyoto. Kanazawa is located in Ishikawa prefecture, and is a city with lots of untouched history. It’s gotten popular amongst tourists recently, both domestic and foreign, and I finally made a trip there.
How to get there
I flew from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport, which is about a 1-hour flight. From the local Komatsu Airport, there’s a bus that goes into the city. On the return, we caught the Hokuriku Shinkansen, which is a bullet train ride of about 2.5 hours to Tokyo Station.
Tsuzumi-mon Gate at Kanazawa Station
About Kanazawa
Kanazawa has a lot of history, and has largely been untouched as it was spared from war bombings and catastrophic natural disasters. It was also one of the wealthier regions in Japan during the Edo Period, so there’s definitely a lot to see.
It’s also known for good food. The city borders the Sea of Japan, so seafoods like crab are quite famous here.
The Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet train was opened in 2015, and the increased access to the city from major hubs like Tokyo is helping it grow into one of the top travel destinations in Japan.
Where we stayed
Because most of the major attractions are to the southeast of Kanazawa Station, we decided to stay in that area. While there are some Japanese-style ryokans and more relaxing resorts, we chose a regular hotel due to our plans to be on the go for most of the time.
We stayed at Tokyu Stay, a hotel which opened in February 2020. It’s a typical hotel but with slight larger rooms, an up-to-date shower/bath unit, separate toilet, and an in-room washer/dryer unit.
There’s a bus stop a short block away as well as a convenience store, and is convenient to get to a lot of the main sights in the city.
What we did
There were two priorities: See the sights that make Kanazawa famous and eat some good food. I’ll put the food at the end, but first, here are the sights we visited.
Omicho Market
Omicho Market is the city’s central seafood market and it dates back to the Edo Period.
The market is lined with vendors selling fresh seafood, from crab - what Kanazawa is known for - to oysters, uni, dried fish used to make dashi, and various fish and shellfish. There are also more restuarant-oriented shops that will serve the fresh fish prepared as sushi or kaisendon bowls, and they seemed to be quite popular.
We stopped at a vendor for a quick stand-up, eat-and-go, and got oysters, shrimp and uni. The first two were good but the uni was on ice, so it wasn’t served at the right temperature.
Kazuemachi Chayagai
Stumbling on Kazuemachi Chayagai was a coincidence while en route to our destination. It’s a few small alleys of old, restored teahouses that date back to the 1800s. It borders the Asano River and is vaguely resembles the Pontocho area alongside Kamo River in Kyoto, but on a smaller scale.
Higashichaya
One of the top destinations to visit in Kanazawa. Higashichaya is an old teahouse district. These districts were designated areas in the Edo Period for restaurants to have geisha to entertain.
Higashichaya is the largest of the three remaining districts in Kanazawa.
The area is very photogenic with its alleys, wooden facades, and the occasional visitors dressed in yukata or kimono. It does get pretty crowded though.
We stopped for some Japanese tea and snacks here - more on that below.
Kenroku-en
Ranked in the top 3 landscape gardens in Japan, Kenroku-en is easily the top destination in Kanazawa.
It was developed by the Maeda clan and was built between the 16 to 1800s. My mom had shown me photos of it when she visited, and it was at the top of our must-go list for this trip.
Its name refers to the 6 points of garden beauty that comes from Chinese landscape theory - extensiveness, quiet seclusion, artificial construction, antique elegance, abundant water and wide views.
It definitely succeeds with each of the criteria as it’s a beautiful garden.
Kanazawa Castle
Next to Kenroku-en is Kanazawa Castle. It’s still undergoing reconstruction, but it was nice and free to walk through.
Oyama Shrine
Also in the same area is Oyama Shrine, which is dedicated to the Maeda clan’s first lord, and was built by his successor.
It’s not big but it’s pretty unique, the main gate in particular. It was designed by a Dutch architect and incorporates an odd mix of Asian and European styles. The garden area is pretty nice too.
Nagamachi Samurai District
A beautiful area right in the middle of a typical, modern-day neighborhood. Nagamachi Samurai District was a neighborhood for samurai and their families to live.
There are small museums and cafes in the area, but with its photogenic walkways and canals, we just preferred to enjoy the atmosphere of the area.
That pretty much summed up the trip - just take in the city. And of course, the food. Here’s some places that we went that I’d recommend.
What we ate
Kozakura
Rated a popular sushi bar by Japanese food review app Retty, Kozakura is an intimate omakase restaurant with 6 seats. It can be booked up quite far in advance, but luckily we were able to get a reservation.
While the chef doesn’t speak English, he is quite friendly and is very skilled at his craft. Needless to say, all of the dishes were delicious, especially the anago nigiri sushi that I wasn’t able to take a pic of due to it needing to be eaten quickly right off his hand.
There’s also a good selection of nihonshu (sake), including ones made in the prefecture. A very good meal.
MAP
Turban Curry
Curry is famous in Kanazawa and the area has its own style. It’s often darker, served on a stainless steel dish and topped with tonkatsu.
Turban Curry is one of the main curry spots and it originated right in Kanazawa in 1971. The L-Set (which I recommend) comes with tonkatsu, 2 sausages and a hamburger patty over white rice.
While it’s not the best curry ever or anything like that, it is really good and deeply satisfying - I recommend it.
Menya Taiga
Eating the local ramen is one of the great things to do when traveling around Japan. Kanazawa doesn’t really have their own unique style, but Menya Taiga is consistently recommended as the standout ramen shop in the city and is rated as a very popular ramen shop on Japanese review app Retty.
And yes, it’s really good. The soup is miso-based with noodles on the thicker side. It comes with a generously thick piece of meat, ginger and yuzu citrus. The staff is friendly and unlike most ramen shops, they take card. It’s just a short walk from Kanazawa Station and makes for a great lunch.
MAP
Fumuro-ya
What’s better than to eat at a Japanese tea shop while in a place like Higashi Chayagai. Fumuro-ya is just that, and is a tea shop from the area that specializes in fu.
Fu is a wheat-gluten food that’s made in several different ways. It often has a slightly chewy texture to it. The set that I ordered consisted of hot fu that you dip one by one into black sugar and roll it in kinako powder.
The cafe itself is more traditional where you sit on a tatami floor. Nice place to take a rest while exploring the area.
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Karuizawa
Karuizawa is a smaller resort area in Nagano prefecture. It’s abundant with nature, including Shiraito Falls. Here’s my 3-day trip there.
Karuizawa is a smaller town area in Nagano prefecture
Western foreign residents long ago promoted it as a resort area
Many wealthy Japanese have vacation homes here
An escape from city life. That’s the image that comes to mind for most Japanese people when they think about Karuizawa.
Located in Nagano prefecture, it’s a relatively short trip from Tokyo, and many head there to get away for a bit and exchange the concrete jungle for a greener one.
How to get there
While I went by car, Karuizawa is easily accessible from Tokyo Station via the Hokuriku Shinkansen bullet train. It takes just over an hour to Karuizawa Station.
About Karuizawa
The Karuizawa area is home to less than 50,000 people, but is a popular destination for vacationers.
It was marketed as a resort area by Western foreigners living in Japan in the 1800s, and has since taken on that image.
Some of the buildings and shops in the main town areas may have a Western look to them due to that era, and you’ll come across some vacation homes of wealthy Japanese people while driving through the mountains.
Where we stayed
There are a few notable Japanese-style hotels to choose from. We stayed at the Karuizawa Marriott Hotel, a resort that has Japanese-style rooms with a tatami mat area, Western-style rooms as well as dog-friendly ones.
Our room was a twin room with a private, open-air, bath attached to it. Karuizawa is an area abundant with nature, so it was only fitting to be able to sit peacefully in the hot spring water outdoors but while enjoying it in the privacy of our own room.
One thing that we added on was an outdoor BBQ. It wasn’t a little pricey, but they gave so much food, and set up and cleaned up everything for us. It’s a good option if you’re arriving later in the day and don’t want to venture anywhere.
https://www.marriott.com/karuizawa
What we did
Karuizawa Brewery
Something that surprised me about Karuizawa and Nagano prefecture as a whole was how much craft beer there is from the area.
We stopped by the Karuizawa Brewery for a tour on the way to check into the hotel. The tour is short, maybe only 15 minutes, and there wasn’t a lot going on (probably due to COVID-19 restrictions). I wouldn’t say it’s a must-do, but it’s a nice stop for those who want to take a look at how a Japanese brewery goes about making their beers. And you get a free draft plus can to take home, which doesn’t hurt.
https://brewery.co.jp [J]
Harunire Terrace
Located in Naka-Karuizawa, the area’s secondary town, Harunire Terrace makes for a nice spot to do some eating, drinking and shopping.
A lot of the shops are smaller boutiques focusing on locally-made products or food items from the area. Some of Karuizawa’s best eateries have locations here, and there were a couple of places that I got to try which I enjoyed - I’ve put more details at the bottom.
The terrace is run by Hoshino Resorts, one of Japan’s premier ryokan chains, and is very much immersed in the surrounding nature. It’s outdoors, on the shores of the Yu River, and is dog-friendly.
https://www.hoshinoresorts.com/harunireterrace
Shiraito Falls
Karuizawa travel video
Probably the main destination for almost everyone visiting Karuizawa: Shiraito Falls.
The falls are located to the north of the main area and up a mountain. Visiting the falls is free, but there’s a toll of 500 JPY to enter the area for those going by car.
The Japanese name for the falls is Shiraito-no-taki (白糸の滝), which means waterfall of white threads, which is fitting. The falls aren’t that tall at all - only about 3 meters high - but they’re quite wide.
I found myself mesmerized by how the water simply came out of the mountain (you can see it better in the video above). It doesn’t flow in from a river or a stream, it’s actually groundwater that is surfacing here.
Prince Shopping Plaza
Our last stop was the Prince Shopping Plaza, a big, spread out outlet mall. It’s located directly next to JR Karuizawa Station making it really convenient, and it has huge range of Western and Japanese brands, as well as shops selling local cuisine and ingredients.
There’s also a lot of green park space to sit in, and like many other places in Karuizawa, the outlet is dog-friendly.
Where we ate
Kawakami An
Nagano prefecture is known for soba, or Japanese buckwheat noodles, and Kawakami An is the most well known place for it in Karuizawa.
Their noodles are homemade and they have a variety of soba sets to choose from. And of course they have beer and nihonshu (Japanese sake) to go with it as well.
The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating and is dog-friendly. There’s a second location at Harunire Terrace, as well as locations in high-end areas of Tokyo.
My recommendation: Duck broth dip with cold soba. Tempura is really good too.
Sawamura
A European-style bakery with a Japanese touch. We stopped at their Kyu-Karuizawa location once and we also took out once for breakfast.
Sawamura uses top ingredients - 20 different kinds of flour, 4 homemade yeasts, mineral-rich Khanh Hoa salt, raw sugar cane from the Amami Islands and more - to produce the one-of-a-kind breads that they aim to make.
They have 2 locations in Karuizawa, in Kyu Karuizawa and Harunire Terrace, as well as locations in Tokyo and Nagoya.
Harvest Nagai
It’s only right that a place like Karuizawa has a farm-to-store brand that brings fresh fruits, vegetables, rice and dairy products from the prefecture to a place like Harunire Terrace.
Harvest Nagai Farm is just that, and they bring their fresh produce from their farm in Tomi, just a 35-minute drive away.
Their main attraction is their range of gelato flavors, all of which are incredibly delicious, creamy and uniquely Japanese.
My recommendation: Koshihikari rice, Pure milk, bitter chocolate gelato.
Maruyama Coffee
Maruyama Coffee is one of the notable Japanese coffee brands, and it arose out of Karuizawa.
Its founder, Kentaro Maruyama, spends half of the year traveling the world to visit coffee farms and buys beans direct from the source. Next to each bag being sold in the store is an information card talking about the farm as well as a photo of the owner.
Their baristas are also of top skill, and they had a run of champions at the Japan Barista Championship from 2009-2013.
The Harunire Terrace shop is a cozy spot to stop by for a cup and shop for some bags to bring home for yourself or as a gift. I’m glad I did.
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Nakano and Obuse
A detour stop in Nakano city, a rural district in Nagano prefecture with amazing apples.
Nakano is a small city of about 50,000, and Obuse is an area next to it
It’s known best for its fruits, particularly Fuji apples and grapes
Between Nagano city and the end of the train line at Yudanaka are Nakano city and Obuse, small, local areas most known for their agriculture.
Visiting in Nakano wasn’t planned, actually, as we actually ended up in the city due to an unfortunate medical emergency while on a trip around Nagano prefecture. At least they have a capable hospital with good staff in Hokushin Hospital.
We had visited Matsumoto city, then had gone to see the snow monkeys in the Yamanouchi area when we ended up having to go to Nakano.
I was able to see a little bit of the area.
HOW TO GET HERE
Nakano city and Obuse are in between Nagano and Yudanaka stations. The Nagaden Snow Monkey, express and local trains going towards Yudanaka stop at these stations but the schedule varies. Here’s a timetable. In these areas though, I’d definitely recommend having a car.
There weren’t a whole lot of highlights given the reason why I was in the area, but there was one: Picking Fuji apples.
ONO RINGO-EN
It was my first time picking apples, and the trees at Ono Ringo-en were full of them. Just like how grapes in Koshu, Yamanashi were some of the best I’ve ever had, these Fuji apples we picked in Nakano were some of the juiciest ever. It became hard to eat a regular supermarket apple after.
There’s so many on the trees and they have awesome deals. All-you-can-eat while in the orchard, + 1 apple to take to go for 500 yen (less than $5 USD), +3 apples for 900 yen, + a basket for 1,500 yen… and there’s no time limit! You can also buy by weight as well.
We stayed at the Route-Inn in Nakano. There wasn’t really any other option but they had a decent public onsen-like bath, breakfast, and really nice reception staff.
Across the street was one of the food highlights of the area.
DAIGEN
A lucky find across the street of our hotel, Daigen was a good alternative to any of the chains nearby. It’s a quirky izakaya run by an older man and woman furnished in random, old items like old wooden skis, a tube TV and something that looked like Japanese rickshaw wheels. They’re fried chicken and spicy sauce stood out to me, and their soba was also pretty good.
TOGAKUSHI SEYA SOBA-TEN
Conveniently right across the street from the hospital, and near Shinshu Nakano station, was this good soba spot. They have a variety of foods to choose from, but their soba combo with their tempura really hit the spot. The soba is nice and firm and their tempura is so light and crispy. Really good quality and very reasonable.
KANAETEUCHI SOBADOKORO
This popular soba spot in Obuse is run out of a converted, local house. They’re a part of a local collective of locations that open their outdoor, Japanese garden to tourists for free. They have several different soba sets to order from, including ones made form 100% soba buckwheat flour.
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Yudanaka: Snow Monkeys and Onsen
Snow monkeys and onsen hot springs in an old Japanese town in the mountains.
Yamanouchi is a small town area in Nagano prefecture with about 12,500 people, and consists of the Yudanaka and Shibu Onsen areas
Snow monkeys, onsen hot springs and skiing are what Yamanouchi is known for
Tucked away in the mountains of northeast Nagano prefecture is Yudanaka, Yamanouchi, an onsen hot spring getaway. I visited the area while on a trip around Nagano in November 2018, and this was the second stop after traveling to Matsumoto city.
People mainly visit the area to either see the famous snow monkeys that take a dip in the onsen during the snowy winter, enjoy the hot springs themselves, or go skiing.
HOW TO GET THERE
There are 3 trains that go between Nagano and Yudanaka stations. From Nagano station, where the Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo makes a stop, you can catch either the Snow Monkey line (it’s actually called that), Nagaden express or local to Yudanaka station which is at the end of the line. Here’s a timetable.
Yamanouchi is separated into two main areas. There’s the Yudanaka area next to the station and the Chuo or “central” area a bit further in.
We stayed at a hostel in the Yudanaka area.
HIGH QUALITY HOSTEL AIBIYA
High Quality Hostel Aibiya is run by a family friend’s former student and his wife. They both speak good English and the hostel itself has a very homey feel.
A converted older building only a few minutes from Yudanaka station by foot, Aibiya has shared rooms and private rooms that share a bathroom, and a deluxe suite with its own toilet and bath.
There’s a shared hangout space on the first floor as well as a kitchen area where you can make yourself breakfast with food that they provide.
I’d recommend considering this hostel for anyone visiting the area, it’s quiet and they’re very accommodating.
We caught a taxi from Yudanaka station to one of the area’s main attractions: The snow monkeys.
JIGOKUDANI MONKEY PARK
There are 2 entrances to the park: Kanbayashi which is a 30 minute walk that has a cafe (see the end of this blog) near the entrance and a 15 minute walk that’s a little rockier of a path. We went in on the first, exited on the latter.
Visiting in late November, it wasn’t snowing yet so the monkeys were just hanging around the hot springs instead of soaking in them. The park has a livestream video feed to check the current conditions.
There are actually a lot of monkeys. The park’s staff come around and feed them, keeping them in the area in large numbers. They pretty much ignore the tourists, walking right around them and paying them no mind at all.
http://www.jigokudani-yaenkoen.co.jp
8:30AM-5:00PM (April to October)
9:00AM to 4:00PM (November to March)
After our monkeying around, we called a taxi and got brought to the central part of town.
SHIBU ONSEN
There are two areas in the Yudanaka, Yamanouchi area: The Yudanaka station area where our hostel was and the Shibu Onsen area.
Shibu Onsen is the bigger, main area, with a lot of ryokans and onsen hot springs spread around old, narrow streets.
Each onsen has a number, and a lot of visitors go on an onsen-hopping tour, jumping from one to the next. You’ll see them in their bath wear walking the streets.
There are some interesting places to check out, from small, old shops selling Japanese manju pastries to free onsen foot baths to old shateki toy rifle ranges that are hard to come by nowadays.
A young girl plays at an old, shateki toy rifle range.
From Shibu Onsen, we walked back to Yudanaka.
It’s walkable but the sun had set by 5:30PM which was when we headed back. There are some really dark portion of the walk and it’s quite some distance, especially if it’s in the middle of a cold winter, so I recommend walking while it’s still lit. Taxis are hard to come by as well since there’s only a few cars servicing the entire area.
YUDANAKA
The Yudanaka station area is smaller but more convenient as it’s minutes from the station.
Our hostel, the High Quality Hostel Aribiya was there, as well as a couple of onsen, including Yudanaka Onsen Yorozuya (Yoroduya) which I went to.
Yorozuya onsen has a large bath inside and connects to one outside that is placed in a rock garden. It’s a great place to relax in some peace and quiet amongst nature.
Yudanaka Onsen Yorozuya (Yoroduya)
Unfortunately, our vacation ended abruptly due to a medical emergency. I enjoyed what I saw while I was there though, and wouldn’t mind going back sometime.
Kakuma river in Yamanouchi at sundown
HAKKO
Right down the street from High Quality Hostel AIbiya is Hakko, which is owned by the same owners. Hakko specializes in using fermented foods like miso, soy sauce, sake, yogurt, bread, pickles, malt and cheese. A lot of their dishes uses local ingredients, and they feature local craft beers from Nagano prefecture as well. Dishes like their locally grown grilled pork pickled in sake lees stood out.
ENZA
Surprisingly good food for a tourist spot cafe. Enza is at the Kanbayashi entrance to the Jigokudani Monkey Park so it’s a convenient food fix before or after seeing the monkeys. This bowl of local Zenkoji-miso chicken ramen hits the spot on a cold day.
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Matsumoto
A one-day trip to Matsumoto, a city in the Nagano prefecture near the Japanese Alps.
About 2.5 hours from Tokyo, Matsumoto is in Nagano prefecture and has about a quarter million residents
Matsumoto is known for foods like soba and miso, and its ramen style is miso ramen
Artist Yayoi Kusama is from Matsumoto
In the middle of Nagano prefecture around the Japanese Alps is Matsumoto city. I stayed here for a night in late November 2018 and was able to see a little bit of it.
Matsumoto resembles a ski town as it basically is just that. Nagano prefecture is famous for skiing - the 1998 Winter Olympics were held there - and Matsumoto is within an hour of some of these slopes. It’s no surprise that two of its sister cities are Salt Lake City, Utah, and Grindelwald, Switzerland.
HOW TO GET THERE
From Shinjuku station in Tokyo, the Limited Express Azusa and Super Azusa trains are probably the easiest way to get there. They depart from a regular JR platform, pass through areas like Koshu, Yamanashi - an area known for grapes and wine, and reaches Matsumoto in about 2.5 hours. If you sit on the left side, you can catch a few glimpses of the tip of Mt Fuji.
The Ta River, next to Nakamachi Street with old merchant shops
One thing about Matsumoto that I noticed was that people are quite nice. Japanese in general are considered to be polite, but after living in the country for a while, you start to pick up on some differences. The people I came across in Matsumoto were pleasant and laid back, and it’s something I appreciated either when trying to order food or just buying something at the convenience store.
The city’s most famous landmark is Matsumoto Castle.
MATSUMOTO CASTLE
The castle topped our list of places to go. It’s about a 15-20 minute walk from Matsumoto station, so pretty central and convenient.
Its black facade and distinct look makes it stand out from most other Japanese castles which usually have a lighter, white look. The castle, completed in the 16th century, is still in its original form and retains its original wooden structure.
English-speaking volunteer guides are available near the entrance area, and the one that we guided us was happy to share all she knew about the castle and surrounding area.
An interesting fact about the castle is that even though it was never attacked due to being backed by the powerful Tokugawa shogunate, it was almost torn down by choice.
In an attempt to “modernize,” many of Japan’s castles and landmarks were being demolished or auctioned off. There were plans to tear down Matsumoto Castle and it would’ve been if not for the efforts of a couple who opposed this and took action. I find this interesting because this willingness to stray from their own culture because of a yearning for some things Western can still be seen today in Japan. But that’s another conversation.
Even without taking a tour or learning about its history, Matsumoto Castle is worth visiting as it’s unique and just looks pretty badass, to be honest.
https://www.matsumoto-castle.jp
8:30AM – 5:00PM (Last entry at 4:30PM)
After the castle, we caught a taxi to the Matsumoto City Museum of Art.
MATSUMOTO CITY MUSEUM OF ART
One of Japan’s most well known artists, Yayoi Kusama, is from Matsumoto. Because of this, she has a permanent exhibit at the Matsumoto City Museum of Art, and the museum itself is decorated in her signature polka dot art.
The museum itself isn’t big. There are special, temporary exhibits which cost an extra fee, but we went with the regular ticket and saw a couple of the permanent exhibits - Yayoi Kusama’s and a calligraphy one. No photography of the art is allowed, but it was interesting to see that Kusama’s art extended beyond her dotted works that she’s most famous for.
http://matsumoto-artmuse.jp
9:00AM-5:00PM (Last entry at 4:30PM)
Seikando bookstore in a building built in an old architectural style
Being that Nagano prefecture has no area bordering the oceans, seafood isn’t a specialty of theirs. They have it, but local cuisine often centers around miso and meats like chicken and even horse. Traditionally, bugs were also eaten here, something I’d choose to pass on trying.
I’ll leave with sharing some places that I think are worth eating at, but since I was only in Matsumoto for a day, feel free to leave a comment if you have any recommendations!
YAKITORI KIRAKUYA
Simply delicious yakitori, some of the best I’ve had, to be honest. Kirakuya is a small, hole-in-the-wall spot with 3 tables and a counter with several seats. They have a good range of yakitori, all of which are fresh and grilled over charcoal. The highlight was their miso pork skewer (first pic) which was unbelievably tasty. Their ume-shiso chicken and venison were some other standouts. Definitely worth checking out.
MENSHO SAKURA
One of the more famous ramen spots in the city, featuring ramen in their local, miso style. Mensho Sakura is located in a converted, old, narrow warehouse, with an attic serving as the second floor. Each ramen was rich in flavor and their noodles were on the thicker side. I had a black kuro-miso ramen with black, garlic sauce added in. Yum.
HOP FROG CAFE
Craft beer and craft coffee in a shop that feels like a ski lodge. Hop Frog Cafe is run by a man and woman and is a short walk from the Matsumoto City Museum of Art. English is completely fine as the man is fluent, having went to college in Iowa. There’s a variety of coffee blends to choose from, and you can decide if you want it filtered to bring out more of the oils or not. Friendly place and a really nice find.
http://hopfrogcafe.biz [J]
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Koshu, Yamanashi: Grapes and Wine Town
A day trip to Koshu, Yamanashi, known for some of the best grapes in Japan.
A dog, “Dash,”, watching over the vineyard for wild boars
Yamanashi prefecture is located just west of Tokyo and is known for its fruits
Koshu is a small city of about 32,000 and is like the Napa Valley of Japan
Living in Japan, I’ve realized that the country has some of the most delicious fruits. The flavor gap between the average supermarket fruit in the US versus one in Japan can be considerable at times, almost to the point that I feel I was deprived.
One of the juiciest fruits that I’ve had in Japan is grapes, and perhaps the most well known area for grapes is Koshu in Yamanashi prefecture.
Koshu is to the west of Tokyo in Yamanashi prefecture, and is almost fully blanketed with vineyards from mountain to mountain. Unlike other grape and wine areas like Napa, Koshu is quite hilly and full of smaller-sized vineyards. Many of them open roadside stands selling their homegrown grapes while a few others make wine.
How to get there
The best way to get there is by car.
If you go by train, from Shinjuku station in Tokyo, it’s about a 1.5 hour ride on the JR Chuo limited express, Azusa and Kaiji trains. The main stop in the area is Enzan station [MAP], but the closest station to where I’ve gone here is Katsunumabudokyo Station [MAP], along just before it.
You can get more information and make reservations here on the JR East website. It’s also eligible for JR Rail Pass holders.
August-September is the best time to visit as it’s peak grape season.
Grapes on the vine - each bunch gets a cover to protect it from the rain
Japanese fruits on average can be slightly expensive, and in mid to high-end department stores, grapes from this area can sell for $60-100 USD per bunch.
Part of the reason why costs are higher is because they produce smaller quantities due to intensive pruning, smaller areas of land and because a lot of care goes into growing, shipping and packaging in general. If you notice in the photos above, each bunch of grapes is even semi-wrapped in protective covering.
During grape season in early September, I was able to visit a family-run vineyard and get some of the juiciest grapes at the source.
Farm Kunugi
A little more than a roadside stand, Farm Kunugi [J] had its own parking lot and a small area of tables and chairs under their vines for people to sit and eat what they just bought.
The vineyard began in 1957 and started with 4 types of grapes - Delaware, Kyoho, Fujibutsu and Pione. They’ve since expanded their selection and were selling several of them when I visited.
All of the grapes here are delicious, but I tend to favor the darker purple ones like the Fujiminori and Kyoho. Each grape is huge and packed with intense flavor.
The family was very friendly and they also ship their grapes around the country. Their harvest period is between June and September - going here for fresh grapes definitely beat dealing with Tokyo’s heat and humidity. And they have cute dogs guarding their grapes.
Ikeda Winery
After getting full of grapes, I visited the nearby Ikeda Winery [J], a family-owned winery that’s been in operation since 1995, and only a short drive away from Farm Kunugi.
They don’t have a winery or vineyard tour as it’s more of a small shop. The great thing about them though is that they offer an extensive wine tasting of about 13 different wines for 500 yen (about $5 USD). Here, you can taste a range of whites, rosé and a couple of reds.
If you buy a bottle, many of which are reasonably priced between $15-40 USD, your money is refunded. It’s a good deal, especially if you like white wine. I’m more of a red guy, but their white wines were quite good - clean, light and crisp.
Wine tasting at Ikeda Winery in Katsunuma, Yamanashi
And they have a cute dog as well. Update: She has since passed on as of August 2019.
The late Ikeda Winery family dog, Emma, an older former breeder.
Delhi Bay
Curry at Delhi Bay was recommended to us, so we decided to try it out. It’s a really local, hole-in-the-wall type of spot. They’re spicier level curries are quite good, and have a few types to choose from that are either Indian or European inspired. Each is served with white rice and pickles.
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Nagoya
A couple of days to taste Nagoya, Japan's fourth-largest city and home to an iconic castle.
Nagoya Castle
Nagoya is in Aichi Prefecture and is Japan’s 4th largest city
It’s considered Japan’s automotive capital with makers like Toyota being from there
Aka-miso (red miso) cooking and tebasaki (chicken wings) are some of the foods they’re known for
Despite being one of Japan’s largest cities, Nagoya may not be one of the most popular destinations to visit.
Honestly, it ranked below places like Kobe or seeing more of Kyoto for me as well, but I decided to spend a couple of days there in 2011, just to get a taste of what Japan’s fourth largest city was like.
How to get there
Nagoya is in Aichi Prefecture, which is quite central on the main Honshu Island. It’s between Kyoto and Tokyo, and most people travel there on the Shinkansen Bullet Train. I recommend doing so as well.
Where I went
Nagoya Castle
My first stop was Nagoya Castle (pictured at the top), arguably the main attraction in the city.
The castle was completed in 1615 by the Shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu. It’s one of the more famous castles in the country and is recognized for the golden shachiko, mythical carp with a head of a lion, at its top.
https://www.nagoyajo.city.nagoya.jp
Atsuta Shrine
Atsuta Shrine
Atsuta Shrine is another top attraction in Nagoya, and is said to be around 1,900 years old. It’s one of the most famous in all of Japan and is visited by about 9 million people each year.
The shrine sits in a park-like area, and is perfect just to take a stroll in, really.
Toyota Museum
Toyota Museum
If you’re in the city where Toyota was founded, you have to see its museum, right?
The Toyota Museum gave a full historical look at the origins and growth of the company, the different businesses that it started, and the technologies that they created.
Being that I only thought of them as the car company that they are today, learning about everything that they did was an eye-opener.
SCMAGLEV and Railway park
JR's SCMaglev and Railway Park is fun for anyone interested in Japan's massive train network.
There's a variety of retired trains and futuristic maglev concepts on display, as well as learning rooms and a simulator.
One exhibit, the Greatest Railway Diorama Room (pictured in the slideshow above), featured an impressive, large scale model train model environment that showcased a day in the life on the Nagoya railways. Very meticulous and well designed.
https://museum.jr-central.co.jp
Osu Shotengai (Shopping street)
The Osu Shopping Street is one of the main shopping areas in Nagoya and attracts a lot of people.
It’s known for selling things at reasonable prices, items such as Japanese dishes and tea to kimonos and used clothes.
Nagoya City Hall
Food-wise, Nagoya is known for a variety of dishes, but are best known for their tebasaki (chicken wings) and aka-miso (red miso) dishes.
Where I ate
YABATON
Misokatsu - tonkatsu covered in aka-miso. One of the most well-known Nagoya misokatsu spots is Yabaton.
The katsu itself is nice, meaty and tender, and the aka-miso adds a light sweetness to it. Definitely worth a try if you're in town.
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Hamamatsu
Exploring Hamamatsu, Shizuoka - one of Japan's unagi capitals - for a day.
Edited 2022
Hamamatsu is a mid-sized city at the western end of Shizuoka Prefecture
It’s most famous for Lake Hamana, unagi and gyoza
Hamamatsu is a coastal city on the western end of Shizuoka Prefecture, neighboring Aichi Prefecture.
How to get there
JR Hamamatsu Station is one of the stops on the Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen Line, making it rather convenient. While there is a train line in the city, getting around it is best done by car.
About Hamamatsu
Hamamatsu is a mid-sized city with a population of just under 800,000. It’s Shizuoka Prefecture’s largest city. Many Brazilians live in the city, with a large portion of them working at local manufacturing plants.
Lake Hamana and unagi, or Japanese eel, are the two things Hamamatsu is best known for. A lot of the shops in the city even sell unagi-flavored confectionary treats as well, and it’s usually the omiyage, or gift brought back from travelers to the city.
I’ve visited Hamamatsu twice. The first was a spur of the moment decision in which I stayed for a couple of days, and the second was to stay at the Hoshino Resorts KAI Enshu resort ryokan.
I've been a big fan of unagi since I was a child, and since it’s considered Japan’s unagi capital, I decided that I needed to go there and try it. My only real goal on that first trip was to head to a shop that was recommended to me. (shown below)
Here are some places that I’ve been to in the city.
Where we went
Act Tower
Often times when I travel to a place, I try to make it to a high point in the city to get a view overlooking the area. I headed to Act Tower, which is just outside of Hamamatsu Station on the east side. The view from the tower the photo at the top.
Airpark JASDF Hamamatsu Air Base Museum
The Airpark is a large museum for people interested in jets and planes in general. I was able to go on my second trip to Hamamatsu.
Entrance to the park is free and there’s free parking as well. There are decommissioned planes and replicas located in the museum, models showing the evolution of flight suits, a replica of a room in the Japanese Air Force One that the Emperor, Prime Minister and other high-ranking officials use when traveling overseas.
There are interactive exhibits as well such as a flight simulator and virtual experience for the Blue Impulse, Japan’s air acrobatics team.
The park is located at an actual air base, so we saw a couple training jets take off. Overall it’s a fun experience.
https://www.mod.go.jp/asdf/airpark/ [J]
MAP
I mentioned that food was my main reason why I first visited Hamamatsu. And because I got to go again, I ate at some good places that I can recommend.
Unagi Nakaya
Mission accomplished. Unagi Nakaya was recommended to me and the main place I wanted to eat on my first trip to Hamamatsu.
It's quite far from the central area and inconvenient to get to without a car, but as of today, it’s one of the top 3 unagi that I've ever had.
The chef cuts, grills and prepares the unagi right in front of you. It's extremely fresh, moist and tasty.
MAP
* This place seems to have closed.
Atsumi
Another favorite unagi spot. Both Unagi Nakaya above and Atsumi here are two of my three favorite unagi places that I’ve ever eaten.
Atsumi is centrally located and just a short walk from Hamamatsu Station. It’s straight forward, selling unagi sold in a few different ways such as sauce, sauceless, in a round bowl, etc. Each comes in about 3 different sizes. The one that I got here is a medium, which contains 1.5 unagi.
So fluffy and moist, yet just the right amount of char on the outside. Absolutely delicious.
Fukumitsu
Gyoza, or Chinese dumplings, are also famous in Hamamatsu. In fact, the city competes with Utsunomiya in Tochigi Prefecture for the title of gyoza capital of Japan.
Fukumitsu is a local spot and during lunch hours, you’ll see a line of locals - a good sign. Hamamatsu style gyoza is filled with a lot of vegetables like cabbage and onion, as well as pork. Fukumitsu’s gyoza wrapping was a little thicker than average, but still maintained a light feel to it.
I got a small-sized, 10-piece lunch set which was filling enough. Lunch sets go up to 20 pieces, and you can order gyoza platters of up to 50 pieces. Fukumitsu is very satisfying for lunch and I imagine it’d be a great place to gather with friends for gyoza parties in the evening as well.
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Visiting the Furano area of Hokkaido in the summer, a popular tourist destination for Japanese