Living in Japan Barrett Ishida Living in Japan Barrett Ishida

What You Get in Tokyo for $1,800/Month

What is a typical 1-bedroom (1LDK) apartment in central Tokyo actually like? My approx. $1,800/month apartment in Setagaya, Tokyo.

Tokyo is one of the world’s major cities and one of its biggest.

There are more than 37 million people in the greater metropolitan area, almost 14 million in the city proper, and Tokyo has the biggest economy of any city in the world. It’s safe to say that space comes at a premium.

Just like my previous $950/month Tokyo studio apartment, you will either find this $1,800/month 1-bedroom apartment expensive or a good deal, depending on where you’re from.

The location

As with anywhere, the location has a lot to do with the price. The metropolitan area of Tokyo is made up of 23 wards, and each operates with some autonomy. Because of this, each has slightly different residential taxes and average rent prices.

In fact, when comparing average rent prices between the cheapest and most expensive wards, the most expensive (Shibuya ward) is more than double the cheapest (Katsushika ward).

The average rent for a 1LDK (1-bedroom apartment) in central Tokyo (within the 23 wards) is said to be about ᆬ145,782 or $1,458 per month in 2022 [J].

Ward: Setagaya

My apartment was in the Setagaya ward which is west-southwest from the center of Tokyo. It has just under 1 million residents and is the second largest ward in Tokyo in terms of area. Its residential taxes and rent prices, while generally cheaper than others wards like Minato or Shibuya, is slightly above average.

The most well known area in Setagaya is probably Shimokitazawa, an area known for its subculture, thrift stores, small bars and live houses, and a spot where many performing artists get their starts.

This apartment is about 3 minutes from there by train.

Station: Kyodo

A Kyodo street in the snow

My wife and I chose an apartment in Kyodo [MAP] - a residential area about 15 minutes from Shinjuku and Shibuya.

There is one train line that goes to Kyodo - the Odakyu line. The Odakyu line goes from Shinjuku all the way out west to the Hachiōji area and down to Kanagawa prefecture.

The station and train lines that go through it are important factors when deciding where to live in Tokyo, and it also affects the price.

An Odakyu line train leaving Kyodo Station

At Kyodo Station, the regular and express trains stop, which makes it more desirable. The rapid express train doesn’t stop, however.

There are also some trains that become Chiyoda line trains. Personally, I think that the Chiyoda line is one of the best lines in Tokyo because it goes to popular areas such as Harajuku, Omotesando/Aoyama, Nogizaka (right next to Roppongi), Hibiya (next to Yurakucho and Ginza), Nijūbashimae (Marunouchi and Tokyo Station area).

It was also easy for me to get to work, taking around 40 minutes door-to-door with 1 easy transfer on the same platform or none at all.

Corty shopping complex

Our apartment was only a 5 minute walk from Kyodo station. Around the station area, there are about 3 supermarkets, dry cleaning, convenience stores, a gym, and other food places and coffee shops.

It’s also worth noting that Gotokuji and Yamashita station are only about 10 minutes away, making the Setagaya line also accessible.

The apartment building

Our apartment building in Kyodo

The apartment building is an 11-story concrete building built in 2010. In Japan, they refer to this type of apartment as a “mansion”, which tends to be more expensive to rent when compared to “apāto” types.

It’s a corner unit which is nice, but there wasn’t anything special about the view. It faces west and looked down at a main street below, and if you look around the corner, you can see the Shinjuku skyline in the distance.

Key features

  • “Auto-lock” - A secure entry system into the building (there’s actually 2 to get in)

  • Security camera system in the lobby and elevator

  • Video intercom to allow people into the building

  • Front desk/concierge service

  • Delivery boxes - A self-serve, secure locker system for box deliveries in case you’re not home

  • Courtyard area outside of the lobby

  • Car parking garage (extra fee) - A covered parking lot meet to the apartment building

Mail and delivery box area

The building is located next to the train tracks, so it can be a little on the noisy side when you’re outside. The apartments are equipped with double-paned glass so almost all of that noise is filtered out.

To the front of the west side of apartment is a gym, and the other side faces a street.

The apartment complex is owned by Odakyu, the same company that runs the train lines, has department stores and a lot more. They also run the promenade that leads up to the building from Kyodo station.

Lobby

The building has staff and a concierge that helps out with tasks such as mailing boxes, getting dry cleaning done, etc., however they come at an extra fee. The staff are really nice though.

Courtyard

The entire area, including the apartment building, are very well maintained by the Odakyu staff. They’re always cleaning, doing landscaping, and even worked through the night on a snowy night to clear the ice.

The apartment

Living room

This apartment is classified in Japan as a 1LDK, which means 1 bedroom, a living room, dining area, and a kitchen.

Apartment layout

Key features

  • 47.15 sq. m (506 sq. ft.)

  • Stove with 3 gas burners, grill

  • TOTO toilet with remote bidet, heated seats, etc.

  • Bathroom with anti-fog heated mirror cabinet

  • Flat-floor shower and a tub that automatically fills, reheats and circulates water while maintaining temperature

  • Dryer function that allows clothes drying in the shower

  • Washing machine hookup with hot and cold water

  • 2 AC/heater units (1 in living room, 1 in bedroom)

  • Large balcony with open-air view

  • 2 sliding doors with double-paned glass

  • Higher than typical ceiling

Bedroom. For reference, the bed is a full-sized bed.

TOTO toilet, separate from the bathroom.

Bathroom with washing machine hook-up

Flat-floor shower and tub unit. Tub has functions like auto-fill, reheat, circulate. The shower also can dry clothes.

Balcony

Fees and costs

The monthly rent totaled to ¥180,000 or about $1,800 USD, depending on the exchange rate. This included the management and service fee of ¥7,000 ($70). When looking at the monthly costs, it’s pretty reasonable considering the size and density of the city, and quality of the apartment itself.

The initial costs, however, were a bit high as often is the case.

Initial costs

While exact costs may vary depending on the rental agency, it is typical that there will be a deposit and “key money” amongst a few other smaller fees. The key money is what was a bit different from any rental experience that I had.

There’s also the typical and non-refundable “thank you” fee to the property owner for letting us rent, it’s paid at the beginning of each contract term. This means that you’ll pay it again if you choose to stay at the location and renew for another 2 years.

Personally, I think it’s a ridiculous fee, especially if you’re a good renter because you’re the one actually helping the property owner out, but that’s the norm in Japan.

They take out a cleaning fee from the deposit when moving out.

My initial moving-in expenses were something like this:

Deposit: ¥180,000 (1-month’s rent)
Key/thank you money: ¥180,000
1st month’s rent: ¥180,000
Key fee: ¥22,000
Insurance: ¥10,400 (1/year)
Total: ¥572,400 (approx.)

It’s also worth mentioning that in Japan, the tenant is responsible for providing their own appliances.

This includes things like refrigerator, washing machine, and light fixtures. Luckily, electronics stores have sets for sale and you can find appliances at reasonable prices.

Utilities

The rent didn’t include any utilities.

Our monthly utility bills on average for 2 people were something like this:

Electricity: ¥5,576 (depending on season)
Gas: ¥4,804
Sewer & Water: ¥6,975 (once every 3 months)
Internet: ¥4,734
Total: ¥22,089/month (approx.)

I wrote more about utility costs in Tokyo here.

This may total to be more than a lot of other cities around the world. However, to get to live in one of the best cities in the world, a huge one at that, was worth it.

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What You Get in Tokyo for $950/Month

What is a typical studio apartment in central Tokyo actually like? My approx. $950/month apartment in Setagaya, Tokyo.

1K studio in Tokyo for $950 / 95,000 yen

Tokyo tends to have an image of being expensive. What we consider as expensive or cheap is relative, but if you’re from any major city in the US or Canada, you’ll likely think that renting in Tokyo is a pretty good deal, at least regarding the monthly costs.

As you could guess by the title, my rent for my first studio apartment in Tokyo was about $950 a month.

The location

The 23 wards of Tokyo

As with anywhere, the location has a lot to do with the price. The metropolitan area of Tokyo is made up of 23 wards, and each operates with some autonomy. Because of this, each has slightly different residential taxes and average rent prices.

For reference, the average rent for a 1K studio in central Tokyo (within the 23 wards) is said to be about $870 in 2019 [J]. It’s not uncommon to pay a rent within the $700 range for a good place, however.

Ward: Setagaya

My apartment was in the Setagaya ward which is west-southwest from the center of Tokyo. It has just under 1 million residents and is the second largest ward in Tokyo in terms of area. Its residential taxes and rent prices, while generally cheaper than others wards like Minato or Shibuya, is slightly above average.

The most well known area in Setagaya is probably Shimokitazawa, an area known for its subculture, thrift stores, small bars and live houses, and a spot where many performing artists get their starts.

My apartment was about 10 minutes from there.

Station: Shimotakaido

I chose an apartment in Shimotakaido [MAP] - a residential area within 15 minutes of Shinjuku and Shibuya.

Main walking street in Shimotakaido

Main walking street in Shimotakaido

Two train lines go to Shimotakaido - the Keio line and the Setagaya street car line. The Keio line goes from Shinjuku all the way out west to the Hachiōji area. The Setagaya line connects Shimotakaido with Sangenjaya.

This area was very convenient for me because the Keio line connects to the TOEI Shinjuku line. This meant that I only had one easy transfer crossing the platform at Sasazuka Station, and sometimes none at all, to get to work which was around 35 minutes door-to-door.

My apartment was only a 3 minute walk from the station. The majority of the walk was along the main road with a 24-hour supermarket, dry cleaning service, Lawson and 7-11 convenience stores, and a lot more along the way. Extremely convenient.

The apartment building

Apartment building in Shimotakaido

Apartment building in Shimotakaido

The apartment building was a 12-story concrete building built in 2004. In Japan, they refer to this as a “mansion” (odd, I know). At the time I rented it, it was about 10 years old.

To the west, it had a view of Mount Fuji, and to the east a view of the downtown Shinjuku skyline.

Key features

  • “Auto-lock” - A secure entry system into the building

  • Security camera system in the lobby and elevator

  • Video intercom to allow people into the building

  • Delivery boxes - A self-serve locker system for box deliveries in case you’re not home

  • Secure bicycle parking (extra fee)

  • Mechanical car parking (extra fee) - A parking system that elevates cars to save space

The building was next to an expressway, so the lower floors may have been a little on the noisy side. To the front of it was an office building of about equal height and another apartment building was on the opposite side of the expressway.

A woman would come and clean the apartment almost every morning so the common areas of the building were pretty well kept.

The apartment

Room - For reference, the bed is a double/full size

Room - For reference, the bed is a double/full size

My apartment was classified in Japan as a 1K, which means 1 room and a kitchen. It’s basically a simple studio. 1Ks are very common in Japan as living with non-family roommates isn’t typical, traditionally speaking.

Apartment layout

Apartment layout

Key features

  • 24 sq. m (258 sq. ft.)

  • Stove with 2 gas burners

  • Bathroom with shower, tub

  • Washing machine hookup

  • 1 concrete “designer” wall

  • Balcony with half view of Shinjuku

  • Sliding door with double-paned glass and invisible retracting screen

  • Higher than typical ceiling, concrete

Hallway and kitchen area

Hallway and kitchen area

Bathroom (Not my actual apartment - layout was reversed)

Bathroom (Not my actual apartment - layout was reversed)

Shower and tub (Not my actual apartment - layout was reversed)

Shower and tub (Not my actual apartment - layout was reversed)

Intercom, AC remote holder, kitchen and hallway connecting to the room (Not my actual apartment - layout was reversed)

Intercom, AC remote holder, kitchen and hallway connecting to the room (Not my actual apartment - layout was reversed)

Balcony

Balcony

Fees and costs

The monthly rent totaled to 95,000 JPY or about $950 USD. This included the management and service fee of 7,000 JPY ($70). When looking at the monthly costs, it’s pretty reasonable considering the size and density of the city, and quality of the apartment itself.

The initial costs, however, were a bit high.

Initial costs

While exact costs may vary depending on the rental agency, it is typical that there will be a deposit and “key money” amongst a few other smaller fees. The key money is what was a bit different from any rental experience that I had.

Poorly explained to me as a non-refundable “thank you” fee to the property owner for letting me rent, it’s paid at the beginning of each contract term. This means that you’ll pay it again if you choose to stay at the location and renew for another 2 years. Personally, I think it’s a ridiculous fee but that’s the norm in Japan.

Another fee I was charged was a cleaning fee that they used when I moved out.

My initial moving-in expenses were something like this:

Deposit: $950 (1-month’s rent)
Key/thank you money: $950
1st month’s rent: $950
Cleaning fee: $385
Key fee: $185
Insurance: ~$120 (1/year)
Debt collector fee: ~$100 (1/term)
Total: $3,640 (approx.)

Utilities

The rent didn’t include any utilities.

My monthly utility bills on average were something like this:

Electricity: $30-65 (depending on season)
Gas: $25
Sewer & Water: $30 (once every 3 months)
Internet: $45
Total: $110-$145/month (approx.)

This may total to more than a lot of other cities around the world. However, to get to live in one of the best cities in the world, a huge one at that, in my own place with my own bathroom and washing machine and everything, to me, was worth it.


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How I Found My First Apartment in Tokyo

The process I went through to move to Tokyo and find an apartment to live in.

Looking at apartments with my colleague

I moved to Tokyo in 2014, a huge mega city of more than 13 million in its central area.

This was the first time I would hunt for a place to live in Japan myself. I lived in a 2-bedroom apartment when I worked in Fukuoka prefecture but it wasn’t one I picked out for myself.

Finding an apartment in Tokyo was, of course, a bit different from my experiences finding ones in Los Angeles and San Francisco.

DIFFERENCES & DIFFICULTIES:

  • Residency/visa issues - Because non-Japanese don’t have typical paperwork like a koseki (family registry) and jūminhyō (official address registration), it’s difficult to run a background check. It’s unclear how you’re able to live in Japan, what your job situation is, how long you’ll be in the country, if they can collect if costs are unpaid, etc.

  • Communication hurdles - There are very tedious documents and requirements, and many agents in the process aren’t capable of any language besides Japanese.

  • Non-Japanese restrictions - Many buildings aren’t open to non-Japanese citizens due to reasons such as inability to communicate in emergencies, incompatible behaviors, previous bad experiences or simple stereotyping by the owner or tenants.

  • Agency-centric - Almost all rentals are managed and rented out by agencies rather than a landlord managing their properties themselves, so there’s automatically 4 parties involved in which you have to deal with: The rental agency, property owner, credit verification company and insurance company.

Luckily my company helped me with the move. I had a couple of weeks or so to find an apartment, a Japanese colleague came with me and my company vouched for me to help with any potential residency hurdles.

1. CONDUCT AN INITIAL SEARCH ONLINE

One of Japan’s largest residential developers, Sekisui House, was a client of ours and they just had started their rental platform, Sha Maison [J]. Like most apartment search sites, they give the option to search by factors like price, area, train line, train station, walking time from the station, size, etc.

Other search sites include SUUMO, LIFULL HOME’S [J], Good Rooms [J], Village House and Oak House, with the last two being the most foreigner-friendly.

Sha Maison website

Sha Maison website

At the time, I was relatively unfamiliar with areas in Tokyo besides the major hubs and tourist spots, so I didn’t have much of an idea about where to actually live.

The things I cared about in my search were:

  • West side of Tokyo (I was concerned about being too close to the ocean)

  • 1K (Studio)

  • Had a balcony

  • 1 transfer or less to/from work

  • Ideally within a 7 minute walk from the station

  • Less than 100,000円 (~$1,000 USD)/month

Just as a note, Japanese tend to be particular about things like auto-lock (building security system), bathtub, and having the toilet separate from the bathroom.

After finding a couple of apartments I was interested in, we put in a request.

2. WORK WITH THE RENTAL AGENCY

Sekisui House and Sha Maison are tied to one main agency: MAST [J]. We went to one of their locations to discuss what I found.

MAST website

MAST website

Unfortunately my first choice, a studio in the Kagurazaka area, had just been taken. They went through a list of available rentals (they had a lot more than what was listed on the site) and I picked out 4 available units that best matched what I wanted.

The 4 choices were 1K studios in Asagaya, Higashi-Nakano, Shimotakaido and Gotanda. Over the course of 2 days, an agent met us and we went to take a look at them. I narrowed my choices down to the apartments in Shimotakaido and Gotanda before picking the prior.

Luckily I moved in September. During peak moving season (February-April because it’s when schools graduate, job relocations happen and work contracts start and end), you have to be lucky and extremely fast to get a decent place as it’s very competitive.

3. COMPLETE ALL THE PAPERWORK

Once you decide you want a place, it’s not guaranteed that you’ll get it. The agency needs to check your credibility. As mentioned, they use another agency to do this.

HOW CREDIT IS CHECKED

In the US, credit is often checked by running your social security number. Japan implemented a similar “My Number” system a few years ago but as of right now in 2019, it’s basically meaningless as there’s no system on the backend that connects people’s information.

Credit is checked by methods such as confirming the company you work for, how long it’s been around, its capital and your position there. Definitely different.

JAPANESE DOCUMENTS AND FORMS

The paperwork is tedious and completely filled out by hand in Japanese. It’s often not prepared and printed out so that all you have to do is check the boxes, sign and date. It’s multiple copies where you have to write basically everything out by hand over and over again, and stamp them using a hanko (Japanese name stamp which is also required).

To be honest, if I didn’t have my Japanese colleague’s help, I probably wouldn’t have been able to do it on my own.

There’s a high chance that this process will take multiple trips and you’ll be running errands gathering all the necessary forms needed. That’s how it was for me.

4. MOVING IN

An agent met me in front of the building on my move-in date and handed me the keys, paperwork and contacts for questions or maintenance needs.

UTILITIES AND APPLIANCES

Unlike a lot of rentals in the US, apartment rentals in Japan come with nothing more than the room with light bulbs in the fixtures. Refrigerator, washing machine and any other appliances or furniture that you may need will have to be purchased on your own.

You will also have to contact utility companies to either connect to you apartment or put the account in your name. Electricity, water & sewer, gas and internet are the typical utilities.

The first few days were hard. My things hadn’t arrived yet so I was living out of a suitcase. I bought a cheap blanket and a towel, and slept on the hard floor with no curtains or anything.

I did better on my next move, but this was my first experiencing finding an apartment to move to Tokyo.


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